Question about Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp

1 Answer

My special 42 slows down when under cutting load

Has bar oil and chain tension is not to tight engine runs fast spinning chain without load . chain is sharp and installed correct . problem came about after chain/bar hit the dirt while cutting a tree root and continues even after cleaning , oiling and new chain, then also after new bar as well

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  • 336 Answers

Hitting the ground could just be a coincidence. Try changing the spark plug. murf427

Posted on Oct 25, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: my 455 rancher chain saw is not using her chain oil

Replace the oil pump..Or just try to clean it out but I have been through this and it worked for about ten minutes and I ended up just replacing the pump and works fine now. They are not very expensive (35.00-40.00) and only takes about ten minutes. Get a beer and a table or the tail gate of you truck should be fine. Take off the side cover remove the bar and chain. Clean everything up... air compressor is best a paint brush and rag works good if you do not have a air compressor. Take the top plastic cover (three screws on top of the saw). Pull the spark plug and feed a piece of rope into the cylinder. This will bind up saw so you can remove the clutch. I use a pull start rope from my old lawn mower and keep it in my saw box for this reason. This size and kind of rope seems to work best. Now you need to remove the clutch. There is an arrow on the clutch that tells you which way to turn it to get it off. This can sometimes be tricky but don't give up. I'm sure there is a tool for this and I keep saying that I'm going to make something. I use the handle of a good strong pair of pliers and turn the plier with a pair of vice grips. When you see the clutch you'll figure out something to use to loosen it and spin it off. Un-spin the clutch and remove the clutch drum by just sliding it off the spindle. Be careful because there is a bushing with needle bearings. The bearings are in there pretty good and wont just fall out. If you want to replace that you can 14.00 or so. There is also a plastic drive gear for the pump that just lifts out , replace it too 6.00 or so. Take off the metal cover I think it's just one screw. When you remove the cover you may see a lot of saw dust and oil all packed inside. If you have an air compressor just blow it all out. The oil pump is right there and is simply removed with one screw. clean every thing up put the new pump in put everything back together and you should be back in business.

Posted on Feb 14, 2009

  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: Oil is leaking out the bottom of the saw after

check the hose that goes to the oilway if everything checks clear you may have a crack in your oil tank due to excessive vibration and weak molding.

Posted on Jan 12, 2010

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  • 2220 Answers

SOURCE: Clutch slipping?

These are related. On your saw the oiler only supplies oil when the clutch turns, and I am going to ignore the oil problem. If it does not oil after clutch replacement please post back. The oil pump is inboard behind the clutch Please inspect it and the worm gear before reassembly.

A link to an "IPL, 455 Rancher, 455 e, 460, 2009-10, Chain Saw" follows (may not be your saw):
The clutch face is on item 1. Inspect the drum (item 3) for glazing. If extreme it may require replacement too. There is also a bearing (item 4) that might effect both problems I suggest you replace it as part of the clutch repair. These parts may be available at your local Husky dealer, if so it will save time and shipping cost. Showing him your parts might be a good idea too.

This is helpful with clutch removal.
R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by

  1. Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources (look at the visible area between the weights if 2 small round sockets are visible you need the tool).
  2. There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make certain the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
  3. Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
If the link I provided is not your saw you can find yours here:
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals
06 1500198
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000; please contact Husqvarna for single digit clarification
15 = week produced – March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.
Thank You for using FixYa.

Posted on May 02, 2010

  • 4088 Answers

SOURCE: Husqvarna 350 oil not getting to chain

Take the bar and chain from the saw. Clean the two small ports that run from the large oil holes at the drive end of the bar out to the chain groove on each side. Clean the entire chain groove. Start the engine with these parts removed--oil should ooze out from the side port in the engine case with the engine running at med speed. If it doesn't, then there is trouble near the pump inside the case. When everything is back together, run the saw at full speed with the bar tip near a piece of cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto the cardboard after a few moments of running. Hope this helps!

Posted on May 28, 2010

  • 4088 Answers

SOURCE: Hi, I go t a new Husqvarna 450. It cut fine for

Suspect that the chain hit a rock or pocket of dirt which will dull the chain in a heartbeat plus pull debris into the chain groove area. Remove the bar and chain and clean everything thoroughly including the chain and bar groove. Inspect the chain teeth carefully looking for burned teeth and other physical damage. If badly damaged, suggest replacing the chain. It's not likely that the bar sliding surfaces have been severely damaged. When you have everything back together and the chain adjusted, start the saw and run the bar tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil in a few moments. There should be an oil volume adjustment screw on the back or just under the same area near the chain return. Turn the screw CCW to increase flow. Hope this helps!

Posted on Jul 14, 2010

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Release the chain brake, then remove the bar and chain. Lay the chain out on a flat surface and look for damaged links, or sideways bending of the chain. Replace the chain if you find any such damage. Clean the engine surface where the bar fits to, then start the engine--oil should ooze out of the small port there. If ok, then clean the small oil passages that run from the large holes out to the chain groove on each edge of the bar. Re-assemble the bar and new chain (if required)--tighten the chain adjuster until the chain just comes up to the lower bar, but not so tight that you can't turn the chain by hand. Tighten the bar mounting hardware and recheck the chain tension again. The chain teeth must be properly sharpened at a consistent angle to assure rapid cutting which keeps the chain heat down. With a new chain, recheck the tension every so often as the chain will initially stretch when used. Test the chain oiling by running the bar tip near some cardboard at speed for a moment or so--it should throw off a thin line of oil. There should be an oil-volume adjustment screw on the engine to achieve this. Check the sawdust coming from the cut--it should be small chips and curls if the teeth are sharp, but it will be a fine dust if they become dull. Hope this helps!

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It is normal for a chain to loosen under usage, especially if the chain is dull or mis-sharpened so that the chain must be overly forced into the cut or there is insufficient oil being fed to the chain from the auto-oiler. Remove the bar and chain--start the engine and look for oil oozing out of the side port in the engine where the bar fits to. If there are thin metal plates on either side of the bar, make sure that the one with a long slot fits to the engine side. This slot allows oil to enter the bar oiling holes no matter where the bar is adjusted. Be sure to clean the two small oil passages in the drive end of the bar that run from the large holes out to the chain groove on either edge. Clean the chain groove as well as the bar and engine side. Reassemble the bar and chain making sure the adjustment 'tang' drops into one of the large bar holes. Install the cover, but leave the mounting nuts/bolts finger tight. Turn the chain adjustment screw CW until the chain just pulls up to the lower bar edge, then tighten the cover mounts. Make sure the chain can be turned by hand and is fully up to the bar with light tension. Chain filing is fairly exacting and must be consistent from tooth to tooth. If a tooth edge cuts your finger, it is considered to be sharp. (not a suggested test by the way) Look for no light reflecting from the filed edge as a good test. Once everything is ready, start the engine and run the bar tip near some cardboard--a few moments running should produce a thin line of oil. If it seems slow to cut, check the chain's sharpness. Don't worry about adjusting the chain to some mark as the chain will grow length with use. It is not necessary to remove the bar and chain when adjustment is required, just loosen the bar mounting fasteners to finger tight. Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

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