Question about Frigidaire Professional Series 24 in. Built-In Dishwasher Dishwasher

1 Answer

No power to controls

Board has no power, I checked door switch and found power on white wire (one side) when door is open and on both white wires when closed. Nothing on black wire side open or closed, but also no power to the board, I checked the wire diagram and only saw one door switch, is there another or another reason there is no power to the board?

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  • Official Brand Answer
  • 4,342 Answers

Hello - Before performing any maintenance or work on the dishwasher, please disconnect power to unit! Edges of door may pose a cut hazard, use gloves or a heavy cloth when grabbing edges.

Remove Covering (i.e. outer door, console, kickplate) to access load that is not switching.

>Is the electrical device connected to the harness? If <YES>

Loosen the screws on the C-arm, push the door down & tighten the screws to align the door with strike, is the unit a pull latch Model? If <YES> You may possibly need to order an angled striker Part # 154544601 (part number can be different depending on your model number). If <NO> Bend the striker down to align with the center of door slot.

If the electrical device is NOT connected to the harness; connect the harness to the electrical device. Replace all coverings and reconnect power to the unit.

Put the unit into water service test. Step through test and determine which Load is not switching.

Should this prove to be unsuccessful I suggest contacting a professional to move forward accurately.

Posted on Oct 26, 2012

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: Replace Control Board?

control board sounds like alikly source, been known to have problems with their display boards as well though.does your unit have a display board on the front maybe 2in.x 3in. square inlay? or is ti just kinda all part of the push button leds

Posted on Feb 23, 2008

SOURCE: Frigidare Gallery Pro Dishwasher Control Panel Power

It can be the problem with the transformer. Try replacing it with another one.

Posted on Dec 15, 2008

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LG Dishwasher LDS 5811BB does not turn on when pressing the Power button.


1. confirm there is power up to the dishwasher.
2. open electrical connection box on right side, behind toe kick panel, and hold one wire nut connector at a time while giving each individual wire a firm tug. All wires should remain connected. If not, correct poor connection.
3. dissassemble door and check door switches.
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Whirlpool Dryer Various Test Procedures - Part 1


TEST #1 Supply Connections
This test should only be done after confirming proper voltage at the outlet.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Remove the cover plate from the back of the dryer.
3. Check that the power cord is firmly connected to the dryer’s wire harness.
4. Access the machine control electronics without disconnecting any wiring to the control board.
5. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between the neutral (N) terminal of the plug and P8-3 (white wire) on the machine control board. If there is continuity, go to step 6. If there is no continuity, disconnect the white wire of the harness from the power cord. Test the continuity of the power cord neutral wire . If an open circuit is found,
replace the power cord. Otherwise, go to step 6.
6. In a similar way, check the continuity between the L1 terminal of the plug and P9- 2 (black wire) on the control board. If there is continuity, go to step 8. If there is no continuity, check the continuity of the power cord for power cord’s L1 wire. If an open circuit is found, replace the power cord. Otherwise, go to step 7.
7. Replace the main harness.
8. Visually check that the P5 connector is inserted all the way into the machine control electronics.
9. Visually check that the user interface assembly is properly inserted into the front console.
10. If both visual checks pass, replace the user interface assembly.
11. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
12. Perform the Console Buttons and Indicators Diagnostic test to verify repair.
13. If indicators still do not light, the machine control electronics has failed: Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
Replace the machine control electronics. Plug in dryer or reconnect power. Perform the Console Buttons and Indicators Diagnostic test to verify repair.

TEST #2 Machine Control Power Check
This test is used to determine if power is present at the machine control electronics.
NOTE: The drum light is controlled by the machine control on all models.
1. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
2. Open the door.If the drum light illuminates, then power is present at the machine control, and it is functional. Go to TEST #6. If the drum light fails to illuminate, do not assume the machine control electronics needs replacement. Several conditions may cause the drum light not to illuminate, including a bad bulb. If the drum light does not illuminate, go to TEST #1.

TEST #3 Drive Motor Circuit
This test will check the wiring to the motor and the motor itself. The following items are part of this motor system:
Harness/connection Belt/belt switch Drive motor Centrifugal switch Door switch Machine control electronics
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the machine control electronics and measure the resistance across P8-4 and P9-1.
If resistance across P8-4 and P9-1 is in the range of 1 to 6 ohms, replace the machine control electronics.
Otherwise, go to step 3.
3. Check the wiring and components in the path between these measurement points by referring to the appropriate wiring diagram and strip circuit in Section 7.
4. Check the belt switch and drive motor. Access the belt switch and drive motor by removing the front panel/drum assembly. Slowly remove the drum belt from the spring-loaded belt switch tension pulley, gently letting the belt pulley down.
5. Remove the white connector from the drive motor switch.
6. Check for the resistance values of the motor’s Main and Start winding coils. NOTE: Main and Start winding coils must be checked at the motor.WINDING RESISTANCE ω CONTACT POINTS OF MEASUREMENT
MAIN 1.4–2.6 Blue wire in back at pin 4 and bare copper wire on pin 5 of black drive motor switch
START 1.4–2.8 Blue wire in back at pin 4 and bare copper wire on pin 3 of black drive motor switch. If the resistance at the motor is correct, there is an open circuit between the motor and machine control electronics.
Check for failed belt switch. If the Start winding resistance is much greater than 4 ohms, replace the motor.
7. Check the belt switch by measuring resistance between the two blue wires while pushing up the belt switch tension pulley.If the resistance reading goes from infinity to a few ohms as pulley arm closes the switch, belt switch is OK. If not, replace the belt switch. If belt switch is OK and there is still an open circuit, check and repair the wiring harness.
8. Door switch problems can be uncovered in the Door Switch Diagnostic Test; however, if this was not done, the following can be done without applying power to the dryer. Connect an ohmmeter across P8-3 (neutral, white wire) and P8-4 (door, tan wire).With the door properly closed, the ohmmeter should indicate a closed circuit
(0–2 ohms). If not, replace the door switch assembly.

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DO = Door Open
Door monitor switch in door lock mechanism is not able to communicate to the control board is open.
1.Make door is closed.2.Check for loose wire connections at switch and/ or machine control board.
3.Check for failed door monitor switch.
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Door lock monitor switch in door lock mechanism unable to communicate to control board the door is locked.


1.Check wire connections in harness leading from machine control board to door lock mechanism.2.Check solenoid and door lock enable switch in door lock mechanism.

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My wife and I just moved into our house and cannot get anything on the dishwasher to activate. We have checked fuses, lightswitches that might be wired to DW power -- nothing has worked. Is there a...


Sounds like a power supply issue. Take off the lower panels below the door and look to the right side of the opening, you will see a little square steel cover. This cover is where your power comes into the dishwasher. Follow the line coming into the dishwasher, it will either be a power cord that leads to an outlet, or a regular power line coming in. IF it leads to an outlet, try plugging something into the outlet. If the outlet is under the sink, try switching the plug from the top outlet to the bottom one (or vice~versa). Sometimes the outlets under sinks are set up so that a garbage disposer can be plugged into one of the outlets that is controlled by a wall switch.
If you get no power to the outlet, and all of your breakers are on, look for a GFI outlet that may have been tripped. These outlets have the little "test" and "reset" buttons on them and often are wired in parallel so that multiple outlets are powered (and protected) by one GFI.
Lastly if you have determined that there is power to the outlet, remove the cover under the dishwasher and inspect the wire connections. I have found many machines that had poor connections causing the wire nuts to burn right off the cord connections.
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Window problem


Might want to check the doors with the problem windows for a broken wire from the door to the door jam.

The window lock switch is a single circuit to all the other windows, so if there was a problem with it, none of the window controls would work ( but the driver's side would still operate them ).

The other place to check for a broken wire is the driver's side door to a-pillar harness. The circuits for the other windows run through the driver's side switch. Could be a wire in the driver's side door harness.

The other item could be the driver's side switch, the contacts will get carbon built up on them, and the windows will not operate anymore.
This is what mine looked like when the driver's side window stopped working ( lower left hand corner of the picture is the driver's side window switch, note the carbon build up on the contacts )
ccfb7fb.jpg

I would start with checking for broken wires, by metering the window switch for power.

The back passenger's window switch should be getting power & ground on the white w/ yellow stripe wire and the tan w/ light blue stripe wire.
in the "at rest" position on the driver's side switch, these are supplying ground to the power window, and power is being applied to the other side of the motor ( depending on direction of travel ).
792a56e.jpg

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Hi,
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It can be the problem with the transformer. Try replacing it with another one.

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