Question about McCulloch Garden
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope...watching the plug for spark.
If you are getting a nice blue spark then skip A below and go to B.
A...If you do not get a nice blue spark then you may need to replace the electronic module.
Note: If you have to replace the module be sure to measure the position it is in and be sure to install it in the same position
Normally the clearance is around .10 thousandsands
Also write the measurement down on a piece of paper for later reference, this measurement is critical to starting of the engine later.
B...Also take some fine grit sandpaper (not emery) and lightly sand the flywheel where the magnet is located to clean any rust or corrosion from the magnet area.
You can also try to lightly sand the module metal face to increase the possibility of ignition of the old module before replacement.
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Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Also be sure to check and clean your spark arrestor in the exaust,if you have one installed on your engine.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of chainsaws and weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor or take a pictue for later reference.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil if your using a two cycle chainsaw or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture...too much oil as it can cause hard starting and excessive smoking.
If the chainsaw/trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indention in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Oct 25, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Remove the air filter, squirt a little fuel into the carb. Start and let run if it will for a few minutes. Could be you had some water in old fuel. and it is still in the intake of saw. If it still will not run after squirting some fuel into carb. You have a firing problem.
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
Stiff usually means good compression. So, pump the fuel bulb, put your foot on the flat in the handle, lock the throttle open using the button on top, set choke all the way out and pull. It should kick after a few pulls. Then close choke half way, and pull until it starts, then push choke all in. If it doesn't start, disconnect spark plug and take it out. Have someone watch while the sparkplug is held against metal engine to see if there is a good spark at the plug. If not maybe needs new coil. look at plug to see if it is wet, ie, gas is getting to it to isolate problem to carburetor.
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
the carbuator has two 2 adjusting screws on it.one is high side and the other is low side.start by turnig them both in until they touch bottom.now turn them both out 1 1/2 turns.this should start and run saw.throttle saw up to full throttle and adjust high side in until you get the best RPM out of saw.do not adjust high side any less then 7/8 turn out from bottom.if you do you will burn saw up from to lean burn.once the high sie is set now adjust low side until the saw will idle by it's self.let me know if this helped you.......
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
You have many options.
Chainsaws 32cc-35cc-38cc Anti-Vibe
Item 76 pn MC-302768
Internet search for "McCulloch 302768" returns many sites, many different costs. Some include the bearing some do not. The bearing should also be changed IMO.
Oregon Bar & Chain Selector
Input your saw you get pn 29888 also widely available (Oregon 29888) at varied dollar amounts. Ditto bearing.
This should help with replacement.
R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
Posted on Mar 24, 2010
Try venting the gas cap for a moment and attempt restart. If it starts, check for a plugged tank vent which should be a bronze disk set into the tank casting and located above the filler cap under the left side cover. When you changed the plug, was it wet with fuel inside? Also, check for spark at the plug when it won't start. You may have ignition problems that occur with engine heat. Hope some of this helps!
Posted on May 24, 2010
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