Question about Leviton Electrical Supplies

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Wired in 5224 switch using (1) white wire and (3) black ones and it popped the breaker. I switched the wires and now both toggle switches control same light. The previous switch controlled a light and a garbage disposal.

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  • Leviton Master
  • 5,089 Answers

10-25-12
Copy following link for wiring diagrams for Leviton double switch.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#double

Only 3 wires will connect to switch. Not 4

If you blew breaker than you connected Neutral wire to switch.
Neutral wire never connects to switch.

Identify Hot wire.
There is only one Hot wire that carries power to switch box.
This wire connects to one side of device ... which side? ... the side where both screws are bonded together.

Posted on Oct 25, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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VtToolMan
  • 704 Answers

SOURCE: I am replacing a combination 2 switch using a

First, turn off the power to this circuit to avoid getting a shock.

If the two devices that are controlled by the combination switch are lights, you will want to join the two (2) white (neutral) wires together with a wire nut, as these are not connected to the switch.

You also want to connect the bare copper wires (ground) together and connect one of them to the switch's green grounding screw and IF the wall box is metal, you also need to attach the ground wire to the box with a green grounding screw.

Now, you can connect the wires that go to your lights, the red and black wires that are part of the same wire and are routed to the same location thru the wall box. Take either the black or red and connect them to the screws on the side of switch that are not connected together with the small brass strip between them. Put the red on one of these screws and the black on the other.

Now with the black wire that is the hot (Common), this is the one that is bringing power into the wall box, should be connected to the other side of the switch, the one with the two (2) screws that are joined together with the brass strip between them.

This will allow you to turn on and off each of the lights (or a fan, etc) separately with each switch sharing the common power source.

Here's a picture of the switch that shows the side of the switch with the common side and the brass strip that connects the screws together. This is the side where the one black (hot / common) wire that supplies the power gets connected.

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=8935&section=10070

You can also open up the box the switch came in and you'll find a wiring diagram for the switch that illustrates how to properly wire the switch for your application.

I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

  • 323 Answers

SOURCE: Wiring Bathroom light/vent/heater switch with 3 separate controls

Wiring a bathroom combination vent, heater, light 3 way switch means more wires. In brief, you need to run two cables - one a two wire and one a three wire from the switch to the fan.

Incoming power will have white black and ground.

The two wire cable for the switch to the fan will have wht, blk, and ground.

The three wire will have red, blk, wht, and grnd.

The switch will likely have 2 blacks and a red coming from it, with two blacks and a red on one side, and a single black on the other.

The fan should have a red, blue, green, black, and white.

On the fan end: Group all green/copper grounds together and use a wire nut to fasten them together. Tape the nut to the wires.
There will be five white wires coming through. For ease of handling, using wire nuts, connect two on one nut and three on the other.
connect the blue to a blck. Connect one red to one black, and the other red to the other black.

The switch will have one red going into the 3 wire cable, a black going to the 3 wire cable, and a black form incoming power to the side opposite the 3 wires, and a blck going to the two wire cable.

There. Confused?

Posted on May 28, 2009

  • 37 Answers

SOURCE: 3-function control switch

You are correct.

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

  • 12173 Answers

SOURCE: I'm using a Leviton 1755 combo 3 switch for a bath

remove white switch one and connect to incoming white ground--all whites should be connected [hooked] together these are grounds-- switch 1 black from fan ,leave switch 2 red from fan ,switch 3 vanity black

Posted on Feb 22, 2010

SOURCE: I have a Leviton 5634

Review old switches:
Two old switches > each has 2 wires
Old switch 1 > Red and White
Old switch 2 > Black and White
The same white wire connects to both switches, so effectively they count as 1 wire
This means you have 3 wires ... 1 White, 1 Red, 1 Black
Each switch controls a separate load (light, fan, motor)

New Leviton double-rocker switch:
-Leviton has 2 Brass-colored screws on one side, and these screws are connected together by a brass plate >> your Hot wire will connect to brass screw
-Leviton has 2 Silver-colored screws on other side, and neither of these screws are connected in any way >> the wires going to each load will connect on a different screw on this side of switch.

Hot wire: Each box in your house has exactly 1 hot wire that is connected back to breaker box. This is true for all boxes (excluding boxes that have a 3-way & 4-way switches).
We need to identify Hot wire.

-By code the Hot wire is black for identification purposes ... but your box sounds like maybe the Hot wire is White.
-If your Hot wire is white, that is NOT an immediate safety issue ... it will not cause a fire or malfunction ... it is a code violation ... because code requires things be uniform so next electrician knows what previous guy did. So some day, electrician working outside grabs wrong color wire, and wow. I say this so you know.

Moving on.

Identify Hot wire:
-Pull 3 wires up so they can be tested
-Turn on power
-Use ordinary tester, or old lamp with plug cut off and wires stripped back
-Tape tester lead to sticks so hands are away from voltage
-Power is on. Don't stand in water or touch metal pipes, and you're fine.
-You have 3 wires in box + ground wire
-Test all 3 wires to bare ground wire >> when tester lights up, that is Hot wire ... testing is complete

Connect wires to Leviton double-rocker:
-Power is OFF.
-You have 3 wires - 1 White, 1 Black, 1 Red >> one is Hot wire, the other two wires go to load
-Hot wire connects to Brass-colored screws on new Leviton.
-Brass colored screws are connected together by a brass plate so the Hot does not need to connect to both brass screws.
-The other two wires connect to Silver screws on other side of new Leviton switch
-One wire goes to each silver screw
-Connect bare ground wire to green screw.
-Push wires back into box. Use eraser end of pencil if needed.
-Make sure ground wire is back and away from screws on switch
-That's it.

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

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Un plugged the wires from the switch and do not remember how it was wired up. I have three white wires and one black. One white and black wire is coming from the power cord the other two white wires are...


Mmmm... that's a little more complicated. If you have a continuity / resistance meter, we can noodle it out, though.

First, are the two white wires the ONLY wires coming from the motor? I suspect they are - that's not in conformance with any accepted color code, but it'll work. For the rest of this, I'll assume that the two white wires are the only ones from the motor.

You'll need to meter the switch itself, with no wires connected to it. In the OFF position, you shouldn't find continuity between any of the four switch contacts. In the ON position, you should find continuity between two pairs of contacts.

The black wire from the power cord should go to ONE of the two switch contacts in a pair that have continuity with the switch turned ON. One (either) of the white wires from the motor should go to the other switch contact IN THAT PAIR.

That leaves you with one more pair that has continuity with the switch turned ON. The white wire from the power cord goes to one of those, and the second white wire from the motor goes to the other one.

When you have it all wired up, plug it in & turn it on. If it's not right, it should immediately pop your circuit breaker. If it IS right, it should run fine.

If it pops your circuit breaker, open it back up and swap one wire from the power cord and one wire from the motor.

Jun 24, 2014 | Grinders

1 Answer

I have a light switch with 3 wires that have to be hooked to it.3 black wires 3 white wires and 3 ground wires.The light switch has 1 place for the black 1 place for white and 1 place for ground.


You have 3 cables entering the box.
Each cable has black and white and ground wire.
You have a single pole switch.
The switch has 2 brass-colored screws and 1 green-colored screw.

1) One thing is certain: all the ground wires connect together and then connect to green screw on switch.

2) After that, we are guessing without more information.
Add a comment.

3) What does the switch control?

4) If the switch controls a hallway light, and there is another switch for the same light: then you have wrong switch. You need 3-way switch. Buy 3-way switch and re-post question at fixya.

5) If switch controls a bath fan-light combo, repost question at fixya.

6) If the switch controls a regular light, and no other switch is involved: then the following information might work. Or you need to do testing and re-post another question at fixya.

-White wires probably connect together and are covered with a wire nut.

-Then two black wires connect to one brass screw and 1 black wire connects to other brass screw.

-But which black wire?

-Only one of the black wires has power from circuit breaker. That is hot wire.
-Hot wire connects to 1st brass screw on switch. Either screw.

-And then connect one of the other black wires to 2nd brass screw. Turn on power and see if light turns on.
-Try other black wire same way.
-The black wire(s) that turn on lights on should be left connected to 2nd brass screw.
-If one black wire did not turn on lights, then that wire probably connects to 1st brass screw along with hot wire.

Aug 29, 2011 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

IN THE OLD DOUBLE SWITCH I REPLACED WITH THE 5224, SWITCH 1 WOULD TURN ON LIGHT 1 AND SWITCH 2 WOULD TURN ON LIGHT 2. I WIRED THE 5224 THE SAME WAY AS THE OLD SWITCH. NOW ONE SWITCH ON THE 5224 TURNS BOTH...


The switch is wired backwards. Swap sides with the wires.

If you look closely at the switch you will see that one side has 2 screws that are joined together with a metal tab. _That_ is the side that gets the hot wire, pick a screw, it doesn't matter which one as long as you don't break off that tab.

On the other side of the switch you will see that the 2 screws are _not_ joined together with a metal tab. _Those_ are the screws that connect to each individual switch leg.

Dec 11, 2010 | Leviton 5224-2 Wall Duplex Switch

1 Answer

My girlfriend has a leviton illumatech IP106 that keeps "not working". after a number of months. It is operarting a standard dining room 6 light chandelier. A couple of her friends have replaced this in...


As a general rule for timers and dimmers:

The Black dimmer wire connects to black hot wire coming from breaker (122V line)
The red dimmer wire connects to Load (wire going to chandelier)

The wall red wire that is capped could be a couple different things. a) It could go to a second switch that was used to control the chandelier. b) it could be another wire that goes to same ceiling box as chandelier to be used to control a fan, except you don't have a fan. In the second case, if you install a fan with a light, you could control fan and light separately.

The green is a ground wire that connects to bare copper wire in box. The bare copper connect back to main breaker box on the Neutral busbar.
White wires that are twisted together inside your light switch box also connect back to to main breaker box on the Neutral busbar.
The ground wire and neutral are a redundant safety system to protect you from electrical devices and appliances that have 'shorted'
The black hot wire connects back to the circuit breaker.

For example, each circuit breaker controls one area of household lighting. The black white and copper wires leave breaker box in a single romex cable. The romex travels to a junction box in the area where the lights are located. The junction box is usually a switch box or a ceiling box. From the junction box, the romex travels to each other switch, light and receptacle box in the area. So each box has 1 hot and 1 neutral and 1 ground that is connected in a line that leads back to breaker box.

Here's a couple pages that make home wiring easier to understand:
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/240-v-water-heater-circuit.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Install-owb.html

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1 Answer

Our switch for the ceiling fan burned out today. Instead of getting the same type of switch (rotary knob with push on/off) I bought a Pass & Seymour combination toggle switch (dual on/off toggle...


The wire to the ceiling fan are meant to send voltage to the fixture only and are not usually wired to control both the light and the fan independently. In order to do that, you may have to pull another set of wires to the switch box and then connect them to the light circuit in the box where the fan is. In regards to the other wiring that you mentioned, it makes no sense that the wires go to the stove fan and the bathroom fan unless those wires are source wires that carry the incoming voltage.

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1 Answer

Breaker keeps tripping when turning on pump.


The red and black wires if ran correctly are the load lines(power). The white is neutral or ground. If its a 1/2 to1-1/2 hp motor connect the red and black wires to terminals #1 and #4. If its 2 hp use #1 and #4. If its 3 hp use #2 and #4. Connect the white wire to the green colored screw. A grounding conductor should always be connected under the green grounding screw, which is located within the terminal compartment of the motor. You can check the breaker for the wire colors, one should be black and the other red. The white wire should be terminated to the neutral/ground bar in the can.

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1 Answer

The 3-way dimmer switch has 4 wires; 1-red, 1-yellow, 1 green and 1 black. Hot wire coming in is black, ground is bare and neutral is white. Wires going out are red,black,bare and white. What does each of...


Incoming white - outgoing white This is the neutral, which just passes through without connecting to the switch
incoming black - switch black the hot wire provides power to the switch
switch red - outgoing red a traveler, will have power when toggle is one position
switch yellow - outgoing black
the other traveler, will have power when toggle is in the other position
incoming bare - switch green - outgoing bare the switch is grounded and it passes through

If this was helpful, please vote.

Mar 21, 2010 | Cooper Wiring Devices Three Way Grounded...

1 Answer

I'm using a Leviton 1755 combo 3 switch for a bath light/fan combo and then onto a vanity light. Basics: wires from ceiling light/fan: black, red, white, ground. Wires to vanity light: black, white,...


remove white switch one and connect to incoming white ground--all whites should be connected [hooked] together these are grounds-- switch 1 black from fan ,leave switch 2 red from fan ,switch 3 vanity black

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1 Answer

I have a ceiling fan with a light that is controlled by the same switch. I want to put a combination switch to control them seperately. There two sets of 3 wire (black, white, red, ground) and another set...


First, turn off the circuit breaker. The three wire bundle should be the incoming power, the four wire bundle should be going to the fixture. Using a duplex switch (one with two toggles), the incoming black wire goes to one side of the switch, the outgoing black and red wires go to separate terminals on the other side of the switch. The whites are connected together. The Grounds (or bare copper) are connected together and to the switch ground screw. Hopefully both the outgoing read and black were connected to the old switch or you may have to rewire the fan to wire up the fan and light separately.

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2 Answers

Wiring a ceiling fan w/light


To add to red54's comments:

This is what I believe you have:

- one source in the ceiling box (black & white)

- one donwline circuit in ceiling box going to another wall/ceiling box (black&white)

- on switch wire in ceiling box coming from your wall switch (black & white) -- this is the white wire which will be hot when the switch is truned on

Here's how it should be connected:

- all 3 blacks in ceiling box connected together -- no other wires in this bundle

- white wire (which is hot when switched) coming from switch connects to the black/blackwhite fan wires

- connect all reamining white wires together in bundle

- connect all ground wires together

It's that simple. Trick is figuring out, of the three cables in the ceiling box, which is source, which is downline, which is switch.
Maybe red54's procedure can help you figure that out.

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