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Re: how does solid state ignition work
Its a magneto. Requires no outside power source. Remove the black wire from the ignition coil and check for spark. If you have spark the coil is good if not then the coil needs to be replaced. Otherwise your problem is elsewhere.
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The standard Starter relay has 2 mounting holes then you can see it has 2 copper studs 5/16 diameter one goes to battery positive and the other goes to the starter then the 2 smaller studs have letters indicating there power source "s" and "i" S stands for start this wire comes from the ignition switch The I is ignition bypass wire and is only used on point ignition and early solid state ignition systems . on 1981 it is not needed.
The ignition switch has two positions inside the switch. There is an ignition feed when the ignition is in the crank position and another feed for the run position.
Both feeds may come out the same external terminal on the switch, but internally there are 2 contact points, one for each positon on the keyswitch.
The common symptom is the engine will hit or run briefly off the startup and then die. It does this because it loses the ignition feed. Not really familiar with the module wiring for a Chrysler, but I was 37 Years old when your car was built. In the day, you could bypass the ignition switch and wire a power source(alligator clip) directly to the coil + terminal and once the car was started it continued to run this way.
Then some nut invented the solid-state Module. It complicates testing and you know the rest.
You can get wiring diagrams free at Autozone.com by registering your car. I remember tuning up the dual-point distributors and the 440 Six-Packs for this era car.
To begin with, a 1994 Evolution powered Road King did not come from the factory with a points type ignition. It came with a solid state ignition system. Harley went to a solid state ignition in their Big Twin engines in 1979. If your's has points in it, it has been converted to that system. So, I'll simply explain how an ignition system works in a general manner.
When you turn the ignition switch on, voltage is supplied to the primary windings in the coil. This voltage builds up a magnetic field. When the points, or the Hall effect sensor in the case of an electronic ignition system, breaks the circuit ground, the magnetic field collapses inducing a high voltage low current pulse in the secondary windings of the coil. This pulse goes to the spark plug via the spark plug wires where it jumps the gap between the spark plug's center electrode and the ground electrode.
Now, in a points type system, the ignition timing must be advanced by means of a mechanical advance unit where the electronic ignition uses electronic circuitry to advance the timing according the RPM of the engine.
Not necessarily. There is no real "computer", but several solid state circuits that control different functions, like the fuel injection or the ignition. You need to isolate which system is not working and then replace the module for that system. If you have someone with a similar vehicle, try swopping out parts to get yours to go and thus locate the problem.
I believe that this machine uses solid state ignition, but has two elements--one is a trigger/charger coil and the other is the ignition coil. Like you said, if it ain't broke---. Parts for this are spendy--hope it outlasts the engine.
No spark, lets start with the easiest, sure the plug is good? Not wet? With a clean dry plug still no spark, disconnect the kill switch, eigther at the ignition unit or at the switch itself (on the handle). If still no spark the ignition unit is bad. These are solid state they work or they don't. Hope this helps.
I have same mower and just fixed what seems like a similar problem description. I had gone down the fuel system route and the symptoms just didn't add up. Stopped abruptly w/o sputtering once I reached warm-up temp. Replaced the solid state ignition (34443C now part number 3444D). Problem corrected and just mowed my 1/3rd acre w/ no issues.
Here is how to tell if system is working.Get into the vehicle and close door. Set ignition switch to on position and move the gear shifter to neutral. After a few secs. you should hear the compressor turn on. If it comes on then put shifter back to park leave ignition on and exit vehicle. Compressor will stop when you open the door but should start back up in a couple of secs. after you close the door. You can then walk around the vehicle and listen for leaks.
If compressor does not come on there are 3 fuses and a solid state relay that controls it along with the module.
The 3 fuses are no. 109(50amp) in the battery junction box under hood.This is the direct feed to compressor thru the solid state relay. The other 2 fuses are located in the interior fuse panel and they are no. 6 (5amp) and no. 12(15amp).
What we usually see though if compressor does not run is either a bad compressor or the solid state relay. They both are rather expensive so I would have an experience tech look at it then.
However If you feel confident enough and have a voltmeter or test light respond back and I will tell you which wires to check.