Replacing heating element in oven-connecting wires fell back in
While replacing the heating element in my Viking heating element one of the wires needed to reconnect the element fell back inward and I cannot locate it through the hole in the back of the oven. Do I need to move the whole oven away from the wall (which would be an issue) or can I remove the back panel of the oven...Help
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Re: Replacing heating element in oven-connecting wires...
Hey sorry about that,as a repair man i hold on to those babies like crazy.almost all ovens i worked on [its many]the rear wall dose not come apart.if yours dose great go that way.but other wise yes you have to go thru the back.i would try fishing abit more before i pulled it out if was me.God bless,tom
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Main oven element probably needs replacing, usualy they only last about 4-5 years depending on usage, fairly cheap to replace, around 15 pounds for the part, fairly easy job for diy enthusiast, or no more than 30 mins work for a appliance repair person. On most ovens, first isolate the oven for safety at the double pole switch outlet. open oven , remove all shelves etc, look for a metal cover at the back which covers the fan and element, usualy two or three screws on the cover to remove, behind cover you see the element and fan, remove two screws on the element mounting plate and carefully pull out with the wires, carefully pull off the two connectors on the element, connect new element and fit in reverse procedure of above.
The heating element burned through -- it needs replacing. Turn off power to oven, remove two screws on heating element mount, pull heating element from wall of oven, remove two screws connecting electric leads to heating element. To install new element, reverse steps. Make sure screws connecting heating element to wires are very tight -- otherwise they will arc.
Most likely replacing the ignitor will fix it. I usually replace Viking ignitors with Maytag ones, part number 12400035 (you'll need splice wires and use included wire nuts to connect those, though). Those have a little shorter base, which does not affect anything. Replace both bake ignitors if you can, otherwise, one of the burners will ignite slower and shut off faster, resulting in uneven bake.
you do not need to take apart any switches, all you need - unplug it from power, open front panel (2 screw on each side) remove all knobs, there is 3 more screws behind them). unscrew thermostat 2 screws behind knob. open top part of stove, remove grates and cover. you will see wires to thermostat unplug them and plug one by one to new thermostat. remove old thermostat from inside the oven (it has bracket inside). put the new one. close everything back. appliancesrepairla.com - viking repair LA
I just had the same problem. Just remove the rear panel of the range and unplug the two leads. Now go to the two screws inside the oven and remove them. The heating element will now come out and you can insert the new element the same way. Replace the two screws inside the oven and then attatch the two leads in the rear. Replace the rear panel and you are set to go.
This tutorial will show you how to check your Smeg element and how to replace your Smeg cooker element.
Here are the 3 main faults to look for in your oven or cooker that is not heating
Your oven will not work until the clock/timer has been re-set after replacing an oven element or tripping the electrical supply. Consult your Smeg manual.
If your Oven is not getting hot or heating up it could be a faulty element, if the fan in the oven is running and the thermostat light is on, this will lead us to believe that the element has gone faulty. With grills the thermostat light should come on there should be heat, if not then this could be the grill element or the thermostat.
When you turn the oven on, the household electrical supply trips on the Rcd (this is the earth trip in the fuse board sometimes called the breaker tripping) your fan oven element has gone to earth and needs replacing.
i think you maen that you are seeing 220v on both terminals of the element and this would mean straight away that the element is ok
the problem is that neutral is not present
take care doing this.
remove wires from both sides of element. check which wire is live and the other should be neutral. trace the neutral wire and see if you can find a break or disconnection. one possibility is that neutral is routed via an overheat stat and this has gone open circuit