Question about Kitchen Ranges

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Frigidaire range oven has a smell of gas and trouble reaching temperature

Has had a conversation kit for propane for several years but lately it can not reach temps and when it does it makes a loud woosh sound and smells of gas. I can not locate the air flow screw to open for more air and have removed any loose debris. I can not locate the info in either the manual or frigidaires website. Any idea what look for or a site that may have the info? Any ideas what is causing this?

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1 Answer

  • Official Brand Answer
  • 4,342 Answers

Hello - Once you have experienced a gas odor, I highly recommend turning the unit and the gas off if you can reach it. For safety and liability reasons we do not suggest that you troubleshoot this yourself any further and to contact a professional to move forward. However if you do so, try resetting the unit by either unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker off. Wait approximately two minutes and turn the range back on. Select a normal bake cycle and if issue continues then the unit may possibly have either a faulty element, bad communication error with the main control board, oven sensor, or mechanical thermostat. I strongly suggest contacting a professional to move forward accurately. They also usually warranty their labor just in case something else may turn out to be the root cause of your initial problem and it does work out better to your advantage.

Posted on Oct 26, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire gas range oven does not go up to correct temperature

It sounds like the thermostat is off. This would be the first place I would check.

Posted on Sep 28, 2007

  • 125 Answers

SOURCE: frigidaire gas range

You could have a gas leak on one of the connections or a leaking safety valve. Mix some dishsoap, (dawn, etc) with water, 50/50. Soak the connections and fittings on the incoming line to the range. If You get bubbles you found the leak. Next find the orfice for the bake burner, take out the drawer and you should see the tube in the center. It will have an opening in the bottom where the orfice goes in. The orfice is brass, spray some soap bubbles on the brass orfice and see if it bubbles, if it does you need a new safety valve. Still no bubbles open the oven and look on the back wall of the cavity for the broil orfice ( if it has a broil burner). Hope that helps

Posted on Jan 10, 2008

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: We bought a Frigidaire freestanding gas range

HI. I have located a conversion kit for your model. Simply click on the link provided below to access the purchase page.

CLICK HERE(Part Number GRLP3)


Installation instructions will be included with the shipment, to assist with the installation.

NOTE(A quailified LP technician is required to make the conversion.)

Posted on Nov 05, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire gas range error message....F1

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350┬░F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: I have converted my new frigidaire gas range to

What you do is tighten down the spud on the oven safety valve. themobilian_221.jpg
Get a good wrench and in the case of propane or LP you tighten down clockwise on that spud. Then open the air shutter all the way.

Posted on Nov 21, 2010

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We were able to trouble-shoot our gas oven before calling the repair man. Our oven reached temperature but did not reheat when it cooled down. Our troubleshooting included taking out the storage drawer and looking at the underside of the oven near the valve.

First check if you can see the flame when the oven is on.

Use an oven thermometer in the oven to test if the oven gets to the desired temperature first. Does it get close to the desired temperature and stay near there for your entire bake time? If it does, you may need to adjust the thermostat setting. (This should be in your manual. Many Frigidaire manuals are available from their support site: http://www.frigidaire.com/Customer-Support/Videos--Manuals/ . )

Since our oven was reaching the set temperature and then not reheating, we had one person crawl under the oven and tap on the regulator when the oven needed to reheat. (We could see the ignitor spark.)

If the oven isn't heating at all, then the thermostat, the gas valve, controller or ignitor are suspects. Can you see the spark of the ignitor? Then it's probably not the issue. Similarly if you see the flame coming on several times during the bake cycle, it's not likely to be the valve. If you have a multimeter, you may be able to check the thermostat and controller for any breaks in the wire.

In our case, since the valve was failing, we ended up replacing the 10-year old range. (We looked at the price of a new range versus part and labor cost for the replacement. The part and labor was more than 50% of a new range.)

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I got a GE gas range (model JGBS22) from a co-worker. She had converted it from gas to propane. I just had a plumber hook it up to natural gas but, even with the conversion manual, he couldn't change the...


There should be a set of orifices for each burner as well as the oven and broiler. When the unit was converted to propane, these orifices should have been replaced and the ones for gas put in with the conversion kit installation information. The kit should have been reattached near the pressure regulator.

If the kit was missing the orifices, then, yes, you are missing pieces. Check with your coworker if the conversion kit was missing. If you have the kit, it can be easily done by any appliance installer (or repair person) licensed for handling NG. (At least on our range, the conversion kit installation was straight forward. Every orifice was clearly labeled with the labels different for each burner and for the gas/LP kits (ABCD (NG) vs MNOP (LP)) .) The regulator is the only part that switched for LP or NG without the kit.

As I recall, the only tools we needed for the top burners were a small wrench (10 mm) and a small flat blade screwdriver. Remove one orifice and put in the appropriate replacement. Then adjust the burners so that they didn't blow out when the oven was opened or quickly turned from high to low (for the simmer burner). The oven and broiler took a bit longer. Several screws had to be removed to get at the orifices. Then the air flow had to be adjusted for the incoming gas.

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What you do is tighten down the spud on the oven safety valve. themobilian_221.jpg
Get a good wrench and in the case of propane or LP you tighten down clockwise on that spud. Then open the air shutter all the way.

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CLICK HERE(Part Number GRLP3)


Installation instructions will be included with the shipment, to assist with the installation.

NOTE(A quailified LP technician is required to make the conversion.)

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