How do you focus closer than 1m for close up work?
I have no problem with the camera or its operation but enjoy close up photography and wondered if there was a method of taking close up shots and being able to accuratly focus on objects within 1mtr. Has anyone else tried any method for this camera? [Please let me know if you can help.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
First auto focus SLR. Does not focus well in low light. Put on manual focus at infinity setting on lens scale, and put camera on tripod and set the lens to something likeF8. Set exposure time to different settings and see which one works out best. You might also check your local library from one of the Kodak guide books (low light photography, etc.)
First of all this is a digital camera, not a 35mm film camera, but it is the same fix... You need to use a faster shutter speed for your wildlife pictures. Or use a tripod, or both. The small screen on the camera is not big enough to tell if a photo is really sharp. Also check the way you have your autofocus set up, or focus manually to test a few closer shots. It may be that the auto focus is set to focus on a part of the picture which is not the bit you are interested in. There should be some indicators in the viewfinder to tell you where in the frame the camera is picking out to auto focus onto.
Blurry can only be either out of focus or shake. (It could be both of course!)
There may be a few things preventing the camera from taking a picture. I don't know the lens you are using but by chance does it have an auto/manual switch that has been switched to manual? Also make sure the lens is locked in position. The camera won't take a picture unless it has focus in the auto focus mode, this is normal. What are you trying to focus on? The camera auto focus system will search and fail to auto focus on surfaces that have little or nor contrast. For example glass, chrome, a blank wall, water, blue sky. Other conditions that auto focus fails is being to close to your subject, heavy fog, a dim lit subject, available light and night photography. Once the little green confirmation light comes on the camera has focus and will operate as it should.
Hey matty reps, Aperture priority is a setting on most SLR cameras where you choose the aperture, which is the size of the opening in the lens that lets light thru, and the camera chooses a shutter speed that provides a correct exposure. The smaller the opening in the lens the less light that gets thru to expose the film so the shutter has to stay open longer to provide a correct exposure, but the smaller the aperture you use the larger the depth of field. Depth of field is how far in front and behind the subject things are in sharp focus. Canon refers to aperture priority as Av mode. With flash photography the camera usually sets the shutter speed to a designated speed called xsync speed, which is probably 1/90th of a second since this is what you said the camera was setting it to, but that speed is irrelevant since the duration of the flash is what determines the exposure time with flash photography which is usually around 1/10000 of a second (easily fast enough to stop almost any action). In aperture priority with a flash the smaller the aperture you use the more that will be in focus but more light will be needed from the flash and the closer you will need to be to your subject. A hotshoe mounted flash will help tremendously. I hope I didn't confuse you more, but as I said before you are attempting something difficult to do in photography. Keep trying and you'll get it! Sincerely, Allan Go Ahead. Use Us.
Hey matty reps, You are attempting one of the most challenging types of photography there is, because you are combing nighttime photography and action photography. If you want to stop the action you normally would be using the highest shutter speed possible, but since you are trying to take nighttime action photographs I would rely on a flash since the flash duration in essence becomes your shutter speed. I would definitely use a hotshoe mounted flash because the built in flash will most likely not be powerful enough for your needs. I would have the camera set to aperture priority so I could control the depth of field, because the smaller the aperture the larger depth of field you will have and the less likely your subject will be out of focus. If you are attempting natural light nighttime action photography you will definitely need a very fast film speed such as 3200 speed film which will provide significant loss of image quality. You will also need a very fast lens meaning a lens with an aperture of at least f2.8 or larger, and your camera in this scenario should be set to shutter priority so you can set the camera to the fastest shutter speed possible but this will present focusing issues. In both scenarios I would have the AF system set to continuous so the camera doesn't require you to achieve focus to be able to trip the shutter. As in all challenging photography situations more photos are better than less, because you should have more failed photos than successful. I hope this helps! Sincerely, Allan Go Ahead. Use Us.
Your problem could be caused by one of several things. The lens may be out of adjustment or have a loose mount. The camera also had problems with the mirror hinges. Look into the mirror area with the lens off to see if the mirror is square within the mount ring.
Do not worry. The part that is scratched or has some dirt on it is called fresnel lens ( or the focusing screen ) and scratches to this part will NOT effect quality of your pictures ( i.e. you will not see any of the scratches on your results ) . True it is a hassle to have to look through a dirty viewfinder but just ignore it for now and just take pictures.
Autofocus Lock ("AF-L"). Pressing the AF-L (Autofocus Lock) button enables the Nikon F4 to lock the focus. Simultaneous lock of AF-L and AE-L is possible. "'FREEZE FOCUS" - is another great function in the F4. It allows automatic shutter release when subject enters a pre focused distance - available with Nikon MF-23 and/or the 250 exp. MF-24 Multi-Control Back. i.e. with the shutter button fully depressed, the shutter is automatically fired when a subject comes into a preset manually focused position. This function is recommended for sports races because the racing course is usually known beforehand. It also works well in wildlife remote control photography, scientific, forensic and other technical photography.