Question about Ryobi 9 in. Benchtop Band Saw

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Ryobi 902 bandsaw makes high pitch noise. have adjusted all guides and thrust bearing

Have adjusted tension, guides,. thrust bearings and still makes noise. what else can i do

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  • Dierdre Allen Oct 25, 2012

    Thanks! that did it. the brush on the bottom wheel was off just enough to be rubbing against the wheel. Much appreciated!

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  • Master
  • 843 Answers

The noise might not be coming from the blade, but perhaps from the bearings on the top or bottom wheel. Unplug it and open the covers. With the blade still on, turn the wheels by hand to see if you still get the noise. Then remove the blade and turn the wheels independently by hand. Then plug it back in and run the motor (with the blade still off!). Of course with the blade still off, the load on the wheel bearings will be very light, so maybe you can provide a bit of load by pressing a wheel or or caster against them as you turn them. Be careful. Good luck!

Posted on Oct 25, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Ryobi band saw blade does not cut straight


The side guides should be just off touching the blade (top and bottom) The thrust bearing behind the blade should be just off th blade while it is free running (T & B). The amount of blade exposed to the timber needs to kept to a minimum - like top guide abou 1/4" above timber. Then, correct tension for blade size :)

Jan 23, 2013 | Ryobi 351009000 Blade 1/4 x 6T x 59 1/4"L

1 Answer

I have a G0504 16"


Contact Spaceage Ceramic Guideblocks at FAX 916 660 9975 for after market ceramic guides for this particular saw. They also do custom ceramic guides and thrust bearings.

Mar 20, 2011 | Grizzly H7873 Ceramic Guide Set G0513G0514...

1 Answer

Need a manual for a sears/craftsman model #103.24300 bandsaw


Any particular reason? If general settings problem, please follow this advice:

Brand of bandsaw is of no importance, problem is... I assume that problem is with regulation of the blade motion. Please follow these instructions, I posted them previously for another member, they apply to any bandsaw in existence, regardless of brand, manufacture, age or look...

I love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

Now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. Basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is housed driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for better self adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

Switch machine off and remove power plug from the socket.

Start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel, is rotating freely without wandering, and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock bearing guide in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous (3) operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position as well.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering, without touching bearing or side slides.
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the top guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. connect power, switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

This general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. Do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

Do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, do not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, allow blade to slide and cut, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

If you have problem with your bandsaw, not related to adjustments, please do not hesitate to ask further questions, let us know how you get along with this info.

Aug 15, 2010 | Craftsman Saws

1 Answer

Sorry as i have extremely little amount of info on this machine (not mine ) i said i would fix it for her it is a 3 wheeled machiene made by rexon i asked for the model & was told all she could find...


Brand of bandsaw is of no importance, problem is... You did not stated what is exactly the problem, I assume therefore tha tproblem is with regulation of the blade motion. Please follow these instructions, I posted them previously for another member, they apply to any bandsaw in existence, regardless of brand, manufacture, age or look...

I love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

Now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. Basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for better self adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

Switch machine off and remove power plug from the socket.

Start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel, is rotating freely without wandering, and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock bearing guide in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous (3) operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position as well.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering, without touching bearing or side slides.
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the top guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. connect power, switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

This general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. Do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

Do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, do not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, allow blade to slide and cut, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

If you still have some trouble with your bandsaw, please do not hesitate to ask further questions, let us know how you get along with this info.

Aug 13, 2010 | Saws

1 Answer

I cannot get the blade to track correctly on my JET 12" band saw. What could be wrong? I have done exactly what the manual says to do. I am not sure the square box on the outside is fitting. The little arm...


i love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for bette adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock it in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

this general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, to not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

Jul 30, 2010 | Jet JWBS-16B 708749B 16-inch Bandsaw

2 Answers

Dryer works but makes high pitch noise


This probally the idler pulley, drum rollers, or a bearing hard to say until you take it apart and take a look. There is a good video on checking and replacing these parts at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html
Hope this helps

Mar 21, 2010 | Dryers

4 Answers

I have a high pitched noise which appears to be coming from front right engine compartment (as you are looking at the engine) which sounds kind of like a belt that is squealing. It is intermittent. Just...


Could be several things. WHICH ENGINE?.. 4 cylinder (has three belts, power steering/water pump, alternator & A/C compressor, one tensioner pully A/C compressor), The V6 2.7 (has only one belt, 1 Idler pully and 1 tensioner pully), the V6 3.5 has two belts - A/C/alternator, and power steering - there are two tensioner pullys). Noises can be caused by the belt(s) themselves, pullys, bearings, pully bearings, water pump shaft bearings (or belts/pullys rubbing up against something). Let's not forget that there is also belt(s) behind the Timing Belt cover as well as pullys and bearings associated with the timing system. You could start by removing one accy drive belt at a time (alternator, water pump, compressor, power steering, etc) to see whether or not the noise goes away in each case. If after each case, you discover the noise is still there, it's probably behind the timing belt cover (idler/tensioner pully, water pump shaft bearing, crankshaft bearing, etc.). Good Luck

Jun 29, 2009 | 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe

1 Answer

Need owners manual for a craftsman band / need help troubleshoot


Hi, On all bandsaws, it's the pitch of the wheels that determine the position of the blade. The top wheel should be adjustable for pitch, and blade tightness.
The blade should only contact the thrust bearings when you are cutting, not when it is idling. No sense in wearing out the bearings and blade while idling.

Dec 15, 2008 | Saws

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