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I have same problem with no water flow on identical humidifier but was able to fix it. Removed the inlet to the solenoid valve and found (1) a small taper mesh filter inside (2) a small diameter orifice that was clogged. Cleaned the miniature filter and used a sewing needle to open the orifice and now works perfectly.
Loosen the brass fitting where it connects to the soleniod valve. If water comes out your saddle valve is ok. Carefully retighten this fitting. With the humidifier turned on loosen the first fitting down stream from the valve see if water comes out. if it does turn the humidifier off and see if it stops, it should. That will tell you the the valve is ok then, just clean the filter and the oriface. if it does not turn on and off check the wiring. if ok replace the valve.
Mine had the same problem no water through the solenoid. It turned out to be the little adapter with the needle hole on it, attached to the solenoid on the intake side. It was clogged, cleaned it out and works great now.
I also had the transformer problem and it was made worse but an HVAC guy who rewired the furance fan to get more air flow when he installed a new AC unit. He left the humidifier wired to the old fan windings which were now putting out 160 induced volts. The humidifier transformer, which was already undersized by Honeywell, never had a chance. Not sure how common this problem is but I later saw several references to the same problem on other websites and it's worth a quick check of the supply voltage to your humidifier.
Since I had an expensive humidifier and a whole cut in the furnace duct, I looked for a fix. My solution was to buy a $15 transformer from a BigBox that matched the voltage and was oversize on amps and mounted it externally to the humdifier (much like a furnace transformer is typically mounted). I then completely removed the piece-of-junk humidifier circuit board and wired the transformer directly to the water solenoid which it controlled and wired the fan and new transformer directly to 120V that is controlled by a current sensing relay (Aprilaire A50) on the furnace fan wires (and also controlled by a humidistat located on return air plenum).
It has worked fine for two years now, runs only when the fan is on and when the humidistat is asking for more humidity. A relatively cheap fix that would have only taken an hour if I had done it right from the start.
For those of you who haven't bought the Honeywell 360A yet - don't. For those of you like me that spent the money and cut holes in your duct - this is one solution.
Maybe Honeywell will wise up and redesign their transformer PCB to be much more robust. The rest of the unit is a pretty good design.