The bearings in my LG 2277HW outer drum are bad and I have a new outer drum installed and was in the final stages of reassembly. However, the new drum has no metal plate onto which the stator mounts like it did on the older drum. When I assemble the stator and rotor onto the new outer drum, and tighten up the bolt to the inner drum shaft, the inner drum won't rotate at all. It seems the dimensions have changed without the metal plate.
Am I doing something stupid here, and please be frank!!
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Re: LG WM2277HW Outer Drum Metal Plate
Well er Jan er, since you insist on honesty.........er Yes you are!
Whilst I admire your self-motivation, I cannot endorse your actions for they are those of one ignorant of the requirements and knowledge as to how to carry out the task you have opted to do yourself.
Look.......because the machine is dis-assembled, that makes it very easy for a Technician to pop in and have a quick squiz for the cost of a Service Call. He may even guide you to being able to complete the task. The upshot always is though, that it is usually wiser to leave such things to those skilled in what you are trying to do.
I am sure you will learn something worthwhile as you watch the Technician fix things for you. That, I would think would be reward enough in itself eh ?
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
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The best way I can suggest through my own personal experience is to turn the tub upside down withthe spider shaft facing down. Hold the tub up in the air about a foot and drop the whole tub on to the ground letting the shaft hit the pavement. It may take a few times to do it but it has always worked forme. Hope this helps.
The symptoms that you describe sound like the spider or support arms of your washer has failed. It the part that holds the wash drum true in the plastic tub. It's a rather difficult job to replace the spider since the washer has to be taken apart to get to the spider. Fortunately, LG does sell the spider, instead of making you buy a new spider and drum. You may need to also replace the plastic tub parts if they are too damaged to be reused. Get a few estimates before deciding whether to repair or replace.
Oh s***! If the motor turns but the drum does not, the drive shaft has broken loose from the three arms which attach it to the drum. (the part is called the "spider") To repair, remove bolt on end of shaft at center of motor. You may have to cut it with an angle grinder, but don't worry about that, because the shaft has to be replaced anyway. Remove motor rotor and stator. Remove washer front, drain hose, fill hose, shock absorbers, support springs, all wires attached to outer drum, and eventually the entire outer drum. Remove bolts between front and back halves of outer tub to allow removal of inner drum. Remove 6 bolts holding 3 arms of spider to back of inner drum. Re-assemble with new spider and new bolt for end of shaft. If you can do it in under two hours, give yourself a big pat on the back. This is about a 8.5 on a 1 - 10 difficulty scale for washer repair. Good luck Mike.
Grinding noises are bad. If you are lucky, you got an item (like an underwire support from a bra) between the inner and outer tub, which may be removed through the heater or drain openings in the tub. If you are un-lucky, your rear tub seal failed, causing the rear bearing to fail, or the shaft broke loose from the 3 arms of the spider which drives the inner wash tub. Either of those things is $$$ and a lot of work to repair, involving removal of the outer drum, seperation of the outer drum halves, and repair. (translation: minimum 2 hours labor if you've ever done one before)
Yes, Undo the 32mm nut, first.
And, don't get the bearings dirty with dust from the brake drums, or , if you do, replace the inner and outer bearings with new greased up ones.REAR DRUM BRAKES Brake Drums REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CAUTION Brake linings contain asbestos. Asbestos is a known cancer-causing agent. When working on brakes, remember that the dust which accumulates on the brake parts and/or in the drum contains asbestos. Always wear a protective face covering, such as a painter's mask, when working on the brakes. NEVER blow the dust from the brakes or drum.
Raise the vehicle and support safely.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
On vehicles without rear bearing hub, remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut lock, wheel bearing nut and washer from the spindle. Remove the outer wheel bearing. Remove the drum with the inner wheel bearing from the spindle. If the drum is difficult to remove, remove the plug from the rear of the backing plate and push the self adjuster lever away from the star wheel. Rotate the star wheel to retract the shoes. Remove the grease seal.
If equipped with a rear bearing hub, remove the drum by removing the retainer screws from the drum and pulling the drum from the hub assembly. If the drum is difficult to remove, remove the plug from the rear of the backing plate and push the self adjuster lever away from the star wheel. Rotate the star wheel to retract the shoes.
On vehicles equipped without rear bearing hub, lubricate and install the inner wheel bearing. Install a new grease seal. Install the drum to the spindle. Lubricate and install the outer wheel bearing, washer and nut. Adjust the bearing preload following the procedure outlined in the "Rear Wheel Bearing'' of this section. When the bearing preload is properly set, install the nut lock and a new cotter pin. Install the grease cap.
On vehicles with rear bearing hub, install the brake drum to the hub assembly and install the retaining screws.
Install the wheel and tire assembly. Adjust the rear brakes as required.
Apply the brakes until a firm pedal is obtained, prior to moving the vehicle.
Definitely the Stator/Sensor/Hall switch. Go to http://www.mcminone.com and order part number 6501KW2002A (if your machine is model number WM2277HW). Remove rear panel, remove three retaining screws for sensor wires at left bottom of drum, remove drum outer retainer bolt in center, stator assembly is now exposed. Remove bolts holding stator assembly (I think there were six) and replace switch assembly by lightly prying tab locks off of stator. Press on new switch and reassemble...
The metal covering piece is probably the outer seal for the front bearing--you remove both by driving the bearing out with a long metal rod (or a long punch) that reaches all the way through from the back (you have removed the inner drum and end shaft first). Tap fairly gently on the rod with a hammer and move the bearing end to another location after a few taps. The seal should pop out first, with the bearing next. Once out, look for a number on the bearing edge--it should match the replacement. Inspect the surface where the seal mates with the shaft--it should be pit and wear free. If it is not, a local machine shop should be able to repair that surface (and cheaper than a new inner drum assembly). It is essential that this surface be perfect as it keeps water out of the bearing behind it. The seal can be reused if it still fits fairly tightly on the shaft and that it was not damaged during the removal process. Check with a local bearing supply house to get a replacement bearing. The new bearing will have been greased at the factory, but you need to grease the shaft and inner seal lip with waterproof grease before installing the seal. Don't strike the inner part of the new bearing, only along the outer edge when tapping it back into the housing. Same with the seal. The far end bearing will likely be good and not need to be replaced--slowly turn the inside part and feel for any roughness which would indicate the need for replacement. If so, it gets tapped out from the front side in a similar manner as the front removal. Good luck!!
Sorry, but you are not so lucky. LG should not even offer those parts, as it takes special hydraulic presses to install some of that. For anyone but the manufacturerthem self you must replace the back half of the outer drum (I believe it is a 3045ER0008C in your case) which contains the installed seal and bearing, plus I'd recommend replacing the spider asm 4434ER0002A, as the shaft may be a bit worn where it contacted the seal and bearing, and you don't really want to go through all that work (at least 2 hours) only to have to do it again. A FixYa rating would be appreciated. Thanks.
The bearing is pressed in in the factory and is only available as a rear tub assembly. They claim to have extremely tight tolerances to prevent wear and unbalance. Check your owner's manual there may be an extended warranty on the rear half of the tub.