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Garrison heater red light on but no heat

I have a Garrison 1000W heater that was working fine, but now it won't heat. I can see that the red light goes on and I hear a click as if everything wants to work as usual, but no heat. The on board thermostat is all digital inside, so not much for me to check in there. Any suggestions ?

Posted by Anonymous on

  • Blaine McDougall
    Blaine McDougall Nov 30, 2017

    Dont ever buy thease heaters. I bought two and within a year both arent working. I had to replace them both.



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Mine was fine for the last 2 years, and now, puf, lights are on, heat is not. Seriously, the red light is on, but no heat. Yes, is is plugged in correctly.

Posted on Oct 21, 2016

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I just fixed mine with the same problem. I first called Garrison and they wanted to send a tech out to fix my $60 heater that was just of warranty..I said no of course. Any how I have a electronic background so troubleshot myself and found a thermo fuse that was bad. It was located inside the heater and not easy to get to but that was the problem. I am guessing that the fuse goes because of blockage at the top of the heater. Any how it's fixed.

Posted on Nov 26, 2015

  • Sherry Fleming
    Sherry Fleming Nov 26, 2017

    Where did you get the fuse. Mine just gave out too.



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SOURCE: Oil filled Heater will not turn on and heat.

First thing make sure: · Ensure that your circuit breaker or fuse is working properly. · Be sure the heater is plugged in and that the electrical outlet is working properly. · Check for any obstruction. If you find any obstruction, turn the heater ?OFF?. Unplug the heater and wait a few minutes for it to cool down. Carefully remove the obstruction. Plug the heater in and turn it on again by referring to the OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS. Second, If you're NOT still under warranty you should at least open the heater and look for anything strange like a blown fuse. A lot of times you can buy replacement at a local electronic or hardware store and they're easy to replace.

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SOURCE: Goodman GDS8 Furnace Won't Cycle

I had the same issue as zippygaloo with the harness plug. By lifting up the connector, the furnace would go out of it's current fail mode and start operating normal again. I have temporarily resolved my issue, by tying up the wires (looped under them with tie raps) and secured them to the vented furnace housing directly above, thus alleviating any stress pulling down on the connector plug by the weight of the wires. Since doing this my furnace has been running flawlessly and stays right at the temp on the Tstat. No more fault modes with blinking lights! Hope this helps you guys. I don't know if it's related to bad design flaw, or there is a weak connection on the board, but it worked for me.

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SOURCE: Properly installed electric baseboard heater won't work.

I am an electrician. You must measure the voltage across the black and red wires. Measuring each wire to the neutral will not cut it. If both your red and black wire are on the same phase the heater will not work.

To double check your wiring, measure the voltage across the two screws feeding your subpanel, they should be 240v or 208v depending on your power company. Then do the same at the breaker feeding your thermostat. Again it should read 240v.

If you have no potential across the screws it is possible that you installed an incorrect breaker. Not all breakers with two screws on them are 240v breakers. There is what is called a twin or split breaker that has two screws that are on the same phase. These are for wiring two 110v circuits, when you run out of spaces in the panel.

Double check everything. This is a relatively easy circuit to wire, even for homeowners. If the heater does not work them something is wrong so do not leave the circuit energized.

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SOURCE: Honeywell RTH230B works on AC not on Heat

check wiring to furnace check wire hook ups on board match letters and colors sometimes installer use what ever wiring they chose on letters

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