- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
As I understand your question, you have a boiler with a 'summer/winter' hookup for domestic hot water.
Your boiler should run all the time, i.e. not be shut off by you. Your boiler provides hot water for baseboard heat in your home ... possibly through several 'zones' each controlled by an individual thermostat and circulator. Yours may be a steam system. If this is the case, you have radiators not radiant baseboard heaters and no circulators.
Your summer/winter hookup provides a constant supply of domestic hot water. It does this by taking cold water from your water main and passing it through a copper coil which sits inside your boiler and then to your hot water main in your home. Since the coil sits in the hot water at the top of the boiler, it is constantly being heated. This coil may be in a deteriorated condition in your case or it may be too small for your needs.
Several years ago, I did a small upgrade to my mid 1950's era American Standard boiler. The summer winter hookup in my case was mounted on a 4 inch cast iron boiler plug. The coil was 12 feet long (folded up to a package about 1 foot long). I was very afraid when the plumber came in with what amounted to a 10 foot long pipe wrench. My fear was I would have a pile of broken cast iron at the end of the day. All is well that ends well. He got the old one out and replaced it with a coil that consisted of 20 feet of copper tubing 3/4 inch in size (the folded tubing was about 20 inches long and fit nicely into the boiler). We now have all the hot water a household consisting of one guy and three gals would need in all but the extremest of times..
I think you r answer is here ... replace your summer/winter coil with a new, bigger coil.
Something else I did. My kitchen is 60 feet (pipe wise) from the boiler. It takes a long time to get hot water there. I put in a small electric hot water heater just under the kitchen. I put a timer on it so it runs for a couple hours in the morning and a few hours in the afternoon. The hot water line from the boiler serves as the cold water input to the heater. I now enjoy the convenience of quick hot water in the kitchen with the relatively low cost of oil heated water from the boiler as a relatively small cost of electricity.
My winter settings are 160 - 200 and my summer settings are 120 - 150 which seems adequate for our needs.
Thanks for your question at FixYa.com. I hope I have been of assistance to you today.
Let's see what we can do to trouble-shoot this boiler--
First of all-- Are we talking about a Hot Water 'Boiler'-- In other words does this boiler heat water that circulates thru the house, to keep you warm?
Next-- What is your fuel?
Have you Shut the system down, to reset it?-- What happens when it comes back on again?-- Clicking sounds-- pumps trying to start-- solenoids trying to open, etc.-- Tell us what you observe-- so we can help you trouble shoot this problem.
Air in what system?-- The Circulating 'Hot' water?-- or in the fuel? (What kind of fuel?)
Normally a hot water boiler will fire, as long as ther is water in the boiler, So-- are you suspecting there is Low water in the boiler? Can yo hear the water circulating thru the water pump?-- is the water pump running?
Tell us more about what happens when you first give it a call for heat? Do any fans or valve try to start?-- any indicator lights?
Tell us some of the obvious things, and maybe there is a clue in something you tell us or observe.
Which turbomax, as there a two different models. The more modern one, with the brass CPL diverter valve, located at the front left of the boiler, was very prone sticking & jamming, this would restrict flow through the hot water circuit in the boiler, and cause cycling. Vaillant actually modified the diverter. You can identify, if it is the old type, as there is a very small hole in the middle of the diverter on the old ones, probable no more than 1mm-2mm wide. The modfied one, is much bigger approx 5mm wide. If old type, replace as this usally sorts the problem
The fact that you're getting a little burst of domestic hot water suggests that the boiler is capable of circulating hot primary loop water through the heat exchanger, but doesn't necessarily do so when it needs to.
What seems to be lacking is a recognition that domestic hot water is now being drawn off, and that the boiler needs to fire up and divert the primary flow through the heat exchanger.
A good place to start might be the flow switch (usually in the bottom of the boiler, where the cold water supply comes in) or the electrical connections to it.
your boiler should have a automatic water feeder so it should fill it self , how ever your heating system needs to be purged that means you must let all the air out of the system you usualy do this with a bleed valve on the return line
The temperatures you mention are reacting in a normal manor. The drop in temperature after it first starts comes from the water being brought back to the boiler from the system. The rise in temperature comes from the residual heat in the chamber after the burner shuts off. I would not push the limits on these settings. Water from the boiler is mainly meant as an assist . You did not answer if you have another hat water heater.