Heater fan stop working after a couple of muinutes
When you turn the heater on the fan will blow for a short period and then stop. The heater will continue to put out a little heat, but even when you turn the therostat to its highest position the heater coils will not come on.
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Dec 13, 2013 - Sometimes a furnace blower will not turn off because there is a mechanical or ... If the furnace continues to run, shut the heating system down.
FAQ: Our Answers to Your Questions ' lifesmartlifesmartproducts.com/support/faq/Here you will find a comprehensive frequently asked question list that we compiled ...Why does my heater's fan continue to run even after the set temperature is ...Furnace fan won't stop running after the heating cycle is donewww.justanswer.com > HVACMy furnace fan won't stop running after the heating cycle is done. The only way to shut it ... Tim H. is online now. A new question is answered every 9 seconds ... If itdoes have the Honeywell fan-limit control, then replace. Ask Your Own HVAC ...Frequently Asked Heater Questions - CaptiveAire
When your furnace has reached desired temperature the burners will turn off but your fan will continue to blow for a couple of minutes Or in other words until it cools your fan limit switch. This switcheck is what tells your blower motor when to kick on and when to kick off.
If my description of what your heater is doing please read through to the end.
The heater is turned on and a room temperature is selected.
You can hear the noise of a small fan start, which shortly after the heater starts.
After a short period of time the heater stops and the red led begins to flash and shuts itself down.
This type of heater has a balanced flue, which means it draws air in one pipe and exhausts it out another.
Have the balanced flue checked for blockages, the problem will most likely be in the flue pipe which draws the outside cool air into the heater and not the flue pipe which blows out the hot air.
it may be full of cob webs or something else which restricts the air flow to the heater.
A service person can perform a quick test to prove the above theory. At the rear of the heater there are two pipes, one is an insulated metal pipe and the other is plastic pipe.
Disconnect the plastic pipe from the flue box and restart the heater.
If the heater runs normally this will confirm that there is a blockage.
Don't despair, it's very common with electric fireplace/heaters. They weren't built to run long periods of time and most fail within one year.
A couple of things may have caused your problem. These fans get clogged with dust, lint and/or pet hair and is puts a strain on their continued operation. If you're fortunate enough to still have your Owners Manual, it will show/tell you how to access the fan motor and blades under the lower portion of the firebox. Clean the fan and motor using a vacuum cleaner, that has a hose and a brush attachment. Attempt this only after you have unplugged the fireplace from the wall. If you have a can of compressed air with a straw nozzle (like you clean your computer with) use that to blow out the nooks and crannies. Reassemble the bottom of the firebox, plug in the cord and give it a try.
If that didn't solve your problem, either the fan motor is bad or the switch to turn the fan on is bad. Those parts you'll have to purchase directly from Dimplex USA.
I had the same problem with my fan and solved it with a reset. The reset button is on the back of the remote next to the dip switches. You have to take the battery cover off to see it.
Turn on the fan with heat, even though the heat doesn't work. Then, leaving the remote on, turn off the fan at the wall switch (or circuit breaker box). Wait a few minutes. Then turn on the power and within 30 seconds, press the reset button. You should be able to see a countdown from 5 to 0 on the remote screen.
Two things come to mind here, one is the over heat protection is tripped and preventing the element from coming on, second is a bad high heat element. You can ring these out with a volt ohm meter and check both, the element if good rings out as a dead short, the over heat protection should be normally closed which means it to rings out as dead short. If it rings out open then it is tripped. some of these can be reset and most only need to be replaced. So check these items out and good luck.
Check the flame sensor. It is a photo type sensor and may need to be cleaned. If that doesn't help, use an ohmmeter to test the sensor. Connect the meter to the 2 wires of the sensor then cover the openning. The resistance should change to several Kohms. Uncover the sensor and the resistance should change to a couple hundred ohms. Replace the sensor if needed.