Howdy, John here, I have a 40hp 1995 Johnson, of the 4 screws, two are screws and two are plugs, the top one is the vent and the bottom one is drain and fill. Oil is forced in from the bottom and out the top to prevent air pockets.
After filling, install the top plug first, then remove the filling device and install the plug.
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What do you need to do? It is easy to open the two screws to drain lower unit gear lube but drain into a container and not on the ground. I have a pump that I use to replace the lower unit lube. Pump hooks up to quart or larger size lube supply. I have seen U TUBE videos if you need instructions.
Each gear case has two plugs - an upper, and lower. Take both plugs out and fill from the bottom till lube starts to come out the top plug. Do not fill from the top plug as an air bubble may prevent the case from getting filled completely. Gear lube is usually sold in a squeeze bottle or there's pumps available. If it takes more than one bottle, simply switch bottles, or put your finger over the hole till you get the lower plug back in. In colder climates it's best to change the lube each fall. Inspect the drained lube (old lube) for water. Water will either settle to the bottom and come out first or the lube will have a yellowish color. If there's water present - have the seals checked/replaced before refilling. Sometimes it's simply replacing the seal around the plugs. Do not let water in the lower unit freeze, as it can crack the Aluminum casing. Smaller engines might take a pint, and larger take a quart - but have extra on hand and make sure it comes out the top hole. Also check for drip spots on the floor if stored.
On the lower side of the gearbox,below the line of the prop shaft,you will see a screw that is about10-15mm across.This is the drain for the g/box oil.If you look above that screw about 150mm(6 inches),you will see another screw the same.It may even be marked 'oil level'.Remove them both.
Checked the drained oil is not milky.It's a sign of water and the propshaft seal would need to be replaced.
The oil bottle you buy will have a tapered nozzle.You must fill the g/box from the LOWER hole by sqeezing the bottle.When it comes out of the UPPER hole,the g/box is filled.Quickly put the lower screw back in first,and then the upper screw.Done.
Before you refill the g/box,check the washer/seal on the screws and make sure they are still good. Hope this helps
remove the bottom drain screw first then place a tube of the proper lower unit oil in it. then remove the top screw and gently squeeze the tube of oil and when full it will slowly come out the top drain hole. when it does replace the lower plug first then the top plug second. make sure the seals are in good shape and plan on changing the oil in the lower unit yearly for proper maintainence. make sure you buy oil designed for your particular type of motor. good luck.
there is none listed . you fill them from the bottom plug with the top plug removed . when lube comes out the top hole it's full . put top screw back in which will not let oil out the bottom then put in the lower plug
What year model? Tools you will need. (1)gear case pressure tester from any outboard dealer. why buy and not build. matching the threads on the drain plugs.(1) detergent and water in a spray bottle. troubleshooting step (1) Remove lower unit from engine as if you were changing the impeller.(2) secure lower unit in a holder so you can drain oil and do visual checks.(3)remove drain plug and vent plug, drain oil(4) reinstall lower drain plug and put pressure tester into vent plug hole(5) pressurize gear case(6)with spray bottle spray gear case at all seals and joints just like you would spray a tire looking for a leak. detergent will bubble at leak.(7) if you find leak at a seal were you will need to remove drive shaft or propeller shaft you will have to buy removal tools and a Clymer repair manuel from your local dealer.(8) hopefully the leak is at the shift shaft or the drain and vent plugs so you wont have to buy special tools to replace seals.(9)if you find a crack in the case have it welded at you local outboard dealer
The drain/fill hole are the same. Put a coffee can or something like that to measure the amont of oil that comes out. Check with a boat parts, or marine or sporting goods section of biggy store. They (at least to) make a pump assembly with hose and threaded end that fits into the hole for the lower unit screw. the other part of the pump fits in a gear oil quart bottle. 80 or 90 is no matter, but needs to say marine grade or suitable for marine use. Nothing special, Penzoil for sure and I think a company Lubrite plus many others make an OK oil. Anyway, put the pump in the bottle and put back in as much as drained out. The level may be marked on the side of the lower unit. If you don't get almost as much out as you put in, check for leaky seal too.