We removed the door as simply as was stated in the manual but when we tried to put it back in it didn't line up. The right side clicked in but the left did not. We removed it and the hinge on the bottom left is not fully extended. Looks like the lock is re-engaged. Any suggestion on how to get the left hinge to extend while unattached? GE contract up Dec 23rd they won't renew Svc Contract until this matter is resolved so it's either call professional or find a solution. Thought I'd try you first.
We found the answer in the installation manual not the owners manual. GE was not helpful.
Step on the latch while holding the door straight up (as if it were closed on the oven). Apply pressure with your foot to the latch and it will open fully. Put the lock in place towards to door. It was then easy to reinstall the door. The installation manual stated that the doors sometimes did this...
Frustrating that the installers are allowed to know this but the owners are supposed to remain in the dark -- unless they are clever like -- ah - ha - ME!
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The door on k.a. / whirlpool - hinge has a tab that locks rhe hinge and prevents the hinge spring from pulling door closed all the wayslightly lifting and continuing to close thw door lifts it off the hinge rest. Some models have set screws that need to be removed some require door disasembly some ge maytag frigidaire dcs wolf viking etc the door simply lifts off. The hinges stay attached to the app.and some have holes at the pivot of the hinge wherea 1/8 inch metal tabs or nails are inserted and door is ifted up and out....
(That is 1/3 of the job 2/3 is puting it back) lol
From the manual: The main oven and companion oven are equipped with heavy-duty, porcelain - coated racks which are designed to remain in the oven during the self-clean cycle.
So they have nothing to do with your problem. From what you describe it appears that as the thermostat button is turned it either simply powers down the oven because the command wire for the clean cycle is disconnected or it trips some kind of overheat safety that is functioning incorrectly. The oven will have to be extracted from its place, its back removed to access the thermostat button (and its wirings) and the control board which will have to be tested. This isn't the simplest of jobs so if you have never done something like this before then you will have to call a pro. The parts won't cost much (less than $100) but the labor will so shop for the most affordable one.
With most gas ranges, you simply put the door in the "broil" position and lift the door from its moorings. To find the broil position, slowly open the door. You will feel a slight resistance when it is opened about 2-4 inches. This is the correct position for broiling foods, hence the name "broil position."
hello. Get an assistant. Open the door about 1/5 until it stays open. With the help of the assistant lift the door straight up and off of the hinges. Put the door upside down on some towels or other padding on a table. Use a screwdriver to remove all of the screws. Then lift inner panel off. Now you will see where the handle screws are. Put the handle back, screw it on, then replace the inner panel and screw it down. With the assistant slide the door back onto the hinges. Done!
was the door removed during delivery? Hinges not being fully seated can cause this. also check to see if the lock is striking the door liner, it should line up with a slot in the inner surface of the door and not touch anything unless the oven is in self-clean
The door latched Micro-switch is not working or is dirty.
Remove the back panel, in the middle of the back there will be a metal arm that moves in and out when self cleaning latch is closed and opened. This arm pushes two or more Micro-Switches in the back, they are dirty or not working and need replacing.