Question about GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

9 Answers

GE Double Oven doors locked and circuit not responding

During baking the control panel started to blink out. We opened the top oven at which point the control panel blacked out and the door locks engaged. So the bottom oven door is locked shut and the top lock is engaged, but luckily the door was open before it engaged, so the top door will not close completely because the lock bar is protruding. The only thing that works is the lamp inside the oven, since the door is now permanently open. I have cycled the breaker off/on to no avail. I have pulled off the control panel unit and all looks normal and verified that 120v is reaching the control unit (circuit board). The control panel has been replaced twice already in it's 9 year life, and at first I suspected it was the problem, but now I believe it is the control unit (circuit board) because all the lights (clock, etc) are off, even when I disconnect the control panel from it. The clock is built into the control unit. I also verified that power is reaching some of the circuits on the control unit, like the switch to the lock motor has power to it, so power is going through the board even though it appears fried. In the past when just the control panel went out, it at least gave me an error/service code, but now all is black on the control panel and unit.

I am trying to decide which is the likely failed device, the control panel or the control unit, or if it could be anything else. These parts are expensive and probably non-returnable.

This is a GE double oven JTP56BW (Profile 30).
Control panel is part # WB36K5648
Control unit is part # WB27T10277

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  • edbuescher Jan 02, 2009

    There is no visible damage to the circuit board and there is power to one of the circuit board switches that powers the door locks. I don't think there is any power to the ribbon cable that serves the control panel, as there are no "beeps" when you press the buttons.

  • edbuescher Jan 03, 2009

    After looking at solution #1 I still can't figure out the cause of the problem. If I unplug the ribbon cable between the control panel and the control board (circuit board), should the lights on the control board light up (clock, etc) if the problem is in the control panel? Are there other things that could cause the control board to not light up, even if there is not problem with the control board? Again I get absolutely no lights or any activity on the control board as though it was unplugged, yet there is power to the board and to certain circuts (I tested a relay) on the control board.

  • edbuescher Jan 03, 2009

    The circuit board shows no visible signs of burnt parts. These ovens are notorious for having heat related problems effecting the components.

  • edbuescher Jan 03, 2009

    I pulled the control board and it looks fine, that is no visible damage.

  • edbuescher Jan 03, 2009

    I checked the 2 thermal switches behind the control panel and neither has a reset button. One switch has 120v to one side, the other switch has no voltage. If I connected the one hot lead to the other lead on the one switch, is it possible this might solve the problem? In other words, if this is a bad thermal switch, could it cause the door locks to not open the control unit to not light up (clock, etc.)?

  • edbuescher Jan 03, 2009

    Again, the bottom door is locked and the top door has it's lock bar sticking out, but the door was open when it tried to lock, so I can open the top door even though the lock is engaged. The oven is cold, yet the locks will not retract when I turn on the power via the breaker. The control panel is non-responsive and black even though there is power to it.

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Hi, well this is a brain tester!! I think you need really to look at this in a simple way. Check to see where the door lock wires come from first? Find where the mains power comes into? then if it goes directly to the main control board then check to see if there is any power getting through the board to the otherside where the wires disapear into the cooker. I would consider checking the control board for any signs of burn damage and then look at the clock unit to as these are normally the main components in the cooker that will stop it from working.
Good luck,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

  • Kris Seymour Jan 05, 2009

    Well i think you have answered your own question! If the panel is non responsive then i would say that is the problem after you confirmed that power is getting to it and the thermal switches are ok then i would go ahead and replace it! Just give the cooker one last look over for any more thermal switches just to be on the safe side..

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You're right, it's the control panel circuit board.

I've replaced 3 myself.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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Are the door locks double silenoids i mean double usage they open and close or are they voltage on lock and spring loaded unlock. Which means when the power is turned off they unlock It sounds like the control circuit that controls everything.If you knew how much voltage it took you could apply that voltage to the lock on that door and get it to open if needed.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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Resetting this switch solved my problem.
To reset it:
TURN OFF THE POWER!
Open the door (if it is locked, turn the power back on and gently pull on the door every few seconds as the locking mechanism cycles until it is unlocked)

remove the 3 screws below the control panel (screws point upwards, with the head just inside the oven)
pull off the face of the control panel. Let it dangle by the wires so that you have access to the space behind it.

Within the electrical enclosure exposed by removing the control panel, Look for a small silver and black device with 2 wires attached to the back. The device is about .5" wide by 1" long and is attached with 2 screws to the sheet metal on the bottom of the electrical enclosure. Mine was located nearly in the middle of the electrical enclosure.

Push the tiny button on top of the switch. You should fee a click.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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Does the circuit board show any signs of burnt spots?

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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Fauty parts when this happerns are the temp probe, the door latch, or the control assembly.

You find parts price and diagrams here.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

  • Ginko
    Ginko Jan 02, 2009

    check the wiring to the door latch, and test the temp probe, that should return about 1100 ohms.

    If you performed a self cleaning cycle this often happen because of the high temperatures generated on self cleaning, they can damage probe or wiring.

    Let me know if the display has an error message.

    All repairs must be performed by qualified personell

    You find parts price and diagrams by entering model number here.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Jan 03, 2009

    Well, it does not work like that, if you unplug ribbon cable from control board with power on, or power control board with cable not connected you risk to damage the board.

    The connection to board must be tested using a multimeter, and it is better if you ALWAYS keep power unplugged when you test the appliance parts.

    The board must be thoroughly tested, and also wiring to door switch, and to board and probe sensor must be tested, using a multimeter.

    If you have not done this before you need a technician.


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The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
*On -some- Frigidaire built ranges, the switch is located behind the right hand side panel and activated by the right hand door hinge. On this model, the side panel may need to be removed to access a malfunctioning door switch.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • Jerry Parmanand Jan 03, 2009

    First, disconnect the power to the range (either unplug it or turn the power off at the circuit breaker). Pull the range out and remove the back panel. Your range has a door latch in the front and a door latch solenoid (with latch switches) in the back. There is a thin metal rod that connects the two. When the board sends a signal to the solenoid to lock the door, the solenoid turns the rod which locks the latch. With the back panel off, you should now see both the solenoid and the rod. You can now manually release the latch by turning the rod (probably clockwise). You should now be able to open the door.

    Put everything back the way it was, If this don't work, you'll need to test the latch switches and the solenoid. you might want to check

    The original thermastic fuse which is rated at 130 degrees and replaced it with a 160 degrees.
    The problem is that it gets very hot behind the stove and with no air flow, the heat builds up. Another option would be to get some air flow behind the stove somehow. and the heat blows the fuse which kills power to the unit.

  • Jerry Parmanand Jan 03, 2009

    First, disconnect the power to the range (either unplug it or turn the power off at the circuit breaker). Pull the range out and remove the back panel. Your range has a door latch in the front and a door latch solenoid (with latch switches) in the back. There is a thin metal rod that connects the two. When the board sends a signal to the solenoid to lock the door, the solenoid turns the rod which locks the latch. With the back panel off, you should now see both the solenoid and the rod. You can now manually release the latch by turning the rod (probably clockwise). You should now be able to open the door.

    Put everything back the way it was, If this don't work, you'll need to test the latch switches and the solenoid. you might want to check

    The original thermastic fuse which is rated at 130 degrees and replaced it with a 160 degrees.
    The problem is that it gets very hot behind the stove and with no air flow, the heat builds up. Another option would be to get some air flow behind the stove somehow. and the heat blows the fuse which kills power to the unit.

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Unplug for an hour when oven cools the door will open (this is a safty feature) once cool oven will open and should now be reset!

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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Hi The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
*On -some- Frigidaire built ranges, the switch is located behind the right hand side panel and activated by the right hand door hinge. On this model, the side panel may need to be removed to access a malfunctioning door switch.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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