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Re: won't start, cover activated switch is down
This is a tricky problem the switch mount has come loose
1 unplug the machine from the wall
2 take your fingers and slide them up under the lip of the housing of the washing machine where the switch is down
3 once you have located the switch modue under the lip slowly squeeze your fingers to see if the housing moves the switch up
4 when you feel the module move up and you are still holding it up take a small flat blade screw driver in your other hand and put it in the slot to push the actuator down listen for a click
5 if you hear it click then the switch is ok it just needs the mounts tightened
6 To tighten the switch body, force the tub in the opposite direction of the switch by pushing the top of the agitator .
7 Using a flashlight find the screws holding the switch body and tighten
8 If the body is tight use the flat head screw drive to se if the switch clicks if so you are ready to test if you do not hear the click you will need to bend the metal actuator lever up slightly nutil you hear the click
9 Pulg the washer in , turn on , close the door and you should be read to wash!
10 If this does not work, remove the switch module and take to apliance repair supply and replace
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E61 I think this a door lock error code. When you close, the door it activates a switch which will allow the machine to start a wash programme. Conversely the first thing the selected programme does is activate a solenoid, to stop you opening the door before the machine is ready. Think spinning drums, small children and cats, or flooded floors. I digress, if that little switch stops working or the mechanism has moved slightly and isn't activated, the machine assumes the door is open.
Maybe not a great help but we have narrowed things down.
There is a switch..(interlock) that activates when the lid is open or closed...not allowing the unit to go into spin if the lid is open. It may be that the machine thinks the lid is open. The switch could be dirty or broken or loose. There is a little leg sticking out from the underside of the lid, that goes into a slot on the machine when the lid is closed, that activates the switch. Make sure this all looks good, (no obstructions or debris in the slot) and the leg goes all the way into the slot (lid closes all the way).
You should see a little plastic lever in the slot that the leg on the lid will contact when you close it. If it is there and unobstructed, try gently pushing down on with your finger or the back of a pencil or something, until you hear a faint click (switch). It should spring back into position when you release. Its a quick and easy check. Good luck.
That button in back of the lid is a safety interlock switch that shuts the machine down if someone were to open the door while the agitator is moving or spinning. It appears that your switch is very nearly activated even with the lid closed so that any vibration sets it off. Maybe your lid, even when closed, has moved away from the switch for some reason, perhaps a loose door hinge. It is possible the the switch itself has started to fail as well. However, if you have room to stick a clothes pin between the button and the edge of the opening, it seems like it is so far out normally that it is ready to trip on the slightest movement of the machine.
I see by the model number of your machine that it is possible quite old. Try this. Close the lid and see if you can push it back towards the button switch to determine if it is rather loose on the hinges. Also, with the lid closed try to slip a table knife blade between the button and the door lid. The blade should not fit, and especially if it fits sloppy, your lid is probably out of position for some reason.
Heater pressure switch
The program is interrupted and the drain pump is operated. The display shows Technical fault F51. Call Service Department. The buzzer is activated for 2 minutes.
Start position: One second after the program start, heater relay K1/1 is activated. This enables a check as to whether the contacts on heater pressure switch B1/13 have closed on switching steps 21/22 or 11/12.
Heater relay defective; contact open.
Replace the heater relay.
Heater relay solenoid defective.
Replace the heater relay.
Connection from heater relay to electronic module open-circuited.
1. Check plug connections.
2. Check the connection wires for continuity.
Heater pressure switch open- or short-circuited.
Replace the heater pressure switch.
Connection from heater pressure switch to electronic open-circuited.
The" little nail"...lid switch strike is very easily replaceable ..they are slightly different by model,reply with your exact model number and i will give ya the part number for it. The model number is going to be on a label on the rim inside of the lid area
YOU HAVE THE RIGHT IDEA ... ALL WASHERS DO HAVE A SAFTEY SWITCH TO PREVENT PEOPLE GETTING HURT WHEN WASHER IS IN AGITATE OR SPIN CYCLE. IF YOU CANT SEE A SMALL HOLE INSIDE THE RIM OF THE TOP UNDER THE DOOR WHERE A PEG PUSHES DOWN TO CLOSE THE SWITCH ... THEN THEY ARE USUALLY BUILT INTO THE HINGE ASSEMBLY.
THE START BUTTON ALSO ACTIVATES A RELAY THAT MAY BE BAD.