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Re: maytag neptne fav 6800 aww does not fill wiht hot...
Hi Big Wags
I would remove both water hoses at the back of the washer and check the Hot & Cold inlet screens for a clog/restriction. They look like this;
You can turn the individual valves on in service mode using the procedure on page 16 of the Service Manual. To enter Service Mode; press and hold simultaneously the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys for three seconds or until the control beeps and the display reads “00”. Now go into board output test by pressing the Delicates key. Now press the Normal button to open the Hot Water Valve you can press the Normal button again to turn off the valve or just press the Off button to end the process.Or just use the wash cycle to toggle the H/C water valves on.I like folks to become familiar with using Service Mode and the SM. If the inlet screens are free of debris and you have good water pressure from your source valve then you may have to replace the valve assembly Here is a link to check for FAV6800AW PARTS Sears Parts Direct. Shout back If you have questions.Rich
Re: maytag neptne fav 6800 aww does not fill wiht hot...
Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW, if i select hot or even warm/warm the hot water will flow for 2 to 3 seconds then stop and just hum and vibrate, if i select cold/cold it immediately starts to fill. Any suggestions.
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1. Does the squeal go away if you choose a different temperature, eg, a hot wash?
2. Check the strainers/filters where the inlet hoses screw onto the washer:
- turn off water at the wall.
- start a warm wash to release pressure from hoses, then switch off machine.
- remove inlet hoses and inspect for blockage/debris. Then, place hoses directly into where the clothes go then carefully turn the water back on at the wall to check flow.
- Also check strainers/filters at other ends of hoses.
3. If all seems OK, new water valve(s) may be required. The rubber in the water valves can harden over time.
Turn off the water to the machine. Disconnect the cold water hose from the back of the machine and put it in a large bucket. Turn on the water to see if you get full-pressure cold water from the hose. If not, the shut-off valve or other plumbing has a problem.
If you do get cold water from the hose, check the strainer inside the hose fitting on the back of the washer. Clean it if it is clogged. If you still don't get cold water in the machine, you have a problem with either the solenoid valve or the cold water fill contacts in the timer (the timer won't start until the tub is up to the selected level, but if the valve isn't opening or the supply line is otherwise blocked, the machine will never fill). Sometimes in this case you can hear the solenoid valve humming (normally the sound is masked by the running water).
If the problem is a clogged strainer, clean out the hot water strainer also.
I find I get better wash results with warm water (runs both hot and cold for the wash cycle). The soap is more active than in cold water, so I don't need quite so much, and the machine doesn't take as long to finish a cycle since it fills faster. Of course, the cold water has to be running to get the energy savings compared to hot only.
It has a strainer. These strainers are evidently designed to make washers stink. Your strainer is located behind the kick panel, below the main panel. The strainer is located between the drum and the pump. It is connected to the drum with a rubber hose. Unplug your washer. Pull and clean the strainer, While the strainer is open, look up into the pump suction cavity and remove any loose debris that you see in there. Reassemble the strainer, replace the kick panel.
Clean the door seal face with a bleachy water solution, let it sit, and wipe it down again. You want to get the solution into the grooves behind the seal face, and wherever you think mold and mildew might be on/in/behind the bellows seal.
Put one cup of bleach directly into the washer tub.
Fill all of the dispenser cups with bleach.
Run the washer on your hottest setting (no clothes). I use the sanitary setting with an extended wash.
When the cycle is finished, run another cycle with nothing in the dispenser cups or tub, Just plain hot water, this will flush out the bleach residue. Most folks wipe their bellows seal face and grooves down with bleachy water regularly. (1X / wk).
Hope this helps. Best regards, --W/D--
I'm not a repairman, only a "doityourselfer". Try some or all of the following:
1. Check water valve to see if it full open. 2. Check the hot water hose inlet on the back of the machine. Look for a strainer that may be clogged in the hose inlet (turn water valve off first). 3. Check hose for kinking. 4. With the hose disconnected from the washing machine, try running some hot water through the hose into a bucket just to verify the water is available. 5. With machine set to hot water wash, start a cycle and listen for the hot water solenoid to "click" when the machine is started (some solenoids are louder than others so listen carefully). If water begins to trickle in when you here the click then the solenoid is probably working properly.
I like to put the hose over in the tub and run some water just to eliminate plumbing problems from that point back. Then, I check the inside of the water valve where the hose connects which you have done. If all this is ok the only thing left is to replace the water valve. I have had some success taking the water valve apart and cleaning it out. About 2 out of 10 will start working but most require replacing.
I was finally able to fix our leak. Noticed that when closed the back of the lid bent down a little toward the middle. That was enough obstruct the water shooting into the lid causing it to spray out of the top a little and leak out the back alot. Took the lid off, bent it back, and now it works!