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Look at the fuse when its blows again. If the fuse element in black and lots of spray inside the fuse you have a dead short to ground, work from the lights back towards the switch, follow the wiring looking for any signs of blackened and burned wires and/or black burn spots on the body metal. If its just melted but still a clean break it indicates the circuit is being overloaded at some point. Try disconnecting all items in the smae circuit, plug each in one at a time, once it blows you found which one is casing the problem.
You seem to have no question here? Yes I agree that your tracktion control is tied into other parts of the vehicles electronics. It is basically a way to apply brakes to tires that may easily be spinning on ice or mud. It will stop the whels from digging a hole by stopping the free wheeling spinning that may occur right when you put it in gear and let off the brake. If you have any wheels that spin even without giving any gas, it will brake those wheels and shift power to the other wheels that are not spinning in an attempt to drive the vehicle in the selected direction of travel. The wheels will not dig a hole and get it stuck as quickly. The Brake system detects the spinning and sends it to the ecm to check the throttle position, if no throttle is being applied then no wheels should be spinning at a rate faster than what it has recorded in it's memory under normal driving. Then the brakes are applied to those and the pcm will transfer the power to the non spinning wheels.
Yes, the actual switch on the left-hand lever is in the circuit to power the module, and also the vacuum pump (from what I remember). "Terminal 8" is at the connector on the cruise control module. There are also terminals there for ground, brake lights (normally grounded through the bulbs unless the brakes are applied), vehicle speed pulsed signal, resume, accel, outputs for pump and solenoid, etc
It sounds like a bad relay, underneath your dash on the drivers side there is a set of relay switchs. One is relay 173 (running light/brake light relay). My car never came with one which is werid because its required, idk it was missing and my break light would come on and flash and beep. Once i replace the relay it stopped and worked fine after that. idk if you experience the same problem.
You definitely have a short in your power line for your brakes. Shorts can be very difficult to find. They can be anything from water in the fixture to someone tapping into the brake line for their car stereo.
(if you accidently used the brake power line as ground, it could be shorting through the chassis of the car/truck since an ohm meter would read it as ground without the pedal being pushed.) You might find the easiest way to solve the problem is to take it to a professional and it might even take them a few hours or just a few minutes to find.) It IS unquestionably a short in the brake wire, and it is unfortunately impossible for anyone to give you a firm answer without being with your car with a voltmeter in hand.
Take it to a pro. Good Luck
If you have a Craftsman/Liftmaster with a 3 function wall control: use the lift button to turn the light off. push and hold the light button for @1min. until the light flashes. This should reset your operator to have the light turn on when you walk through the photo eyes.