The other nite i lost my furnace, turned on faucet, woke up to no water next morning,(someone turned off the water) climbed under the trailer to where the pump and tank are, all the pipes are very well insulated there seems to be no water comng from the well line to the pump also the pump runs constantly without turning off. (i had to turn it off at the breaker) any help would be appreciated
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For this type of pump, there should be a priming plug or priming tee. Remove the plug (or tee) and pour water into the pump. Keep adding water until the pump and all of the piping to the well is full of water. If a priming plug or tee was also added on the suction side of the pump, open that section and fill all of the piping on the suction side with water. Replace the plugs/tees then open a faucet in the house. Start the pump. After 2-3 minutes, turn off the pump if no water has come through the unit. Add more water through the priming plug or tee (or multiple plugs and tees). Then repeat closing the priming ports and start the pump after opening a faucet. Once the pump is actually pumping water, turn off the open faucet. Wait for the pump to shut off once it reaches full pressure. Open one or two faucets to check that the pump is properly sensing the pressure changes and maintaining system water pressure.
If the unit didn't pull water from the well, check the piping for air leaks. See the full trouble-shooting guide in the manual. Page 9 has the priming information and page 10 has the trouble-shooting guide.
it could be frozren depends the temp. of the room u have it in. if thats the case get ur blow dryer out put heat to it. my boyfriend and i have had to do this to our pipes 3xs already.my cold water in the kitchen did to, i just turned it on and waited for it to unthaw. i hope this will help.
Is this an air conditioner problem?
If not, open all faucets, all cabinet doors under the sinks, and allow the pipes to thaw slowly. Find your water source shut off valve.
See if you can find where the pipe is frozen. Do not use a propane torch. Use a hair dryer if you are not in standing water to heat the area of the pipe that is frozen. Once the water starts flowing at the faucets, allow it to run for a few minutes. The relatively warm water will melt any ice that may be forming in your pipes. Once you shut off the faucets, verify that you don't have water running anywhere - you are looking for broken pipes.
If you have found the area(s) where the pipe has frozen, insulate that area before there's a next time. If need be, add some self regulating heat tape before insulating the pipe. Good Luck
You didn't mention the source of the water. Is this a well or connected to a water system? If is a well you might need to install a filter on the line coming into the house. Does the orange water stain or have any odor? It is possible that there is a loose connection somewhere allowing sediment to leach into the line when there is no active flow.
Ok I see your re-post. If I understand correctly, no water is coming out of any faucet.
No cold water and no hot water.
1) First of all, cold water side of water system is totally unaffected by recirculation pump or timer on recirculation pump. Faucets are connected directly to cold water line that enters house from outside, and that line does not come in contact with recirculation pump. 2) If you have no cold water, check with neighbors to see if they have water. 3) Next, go outside and check ALL outdoor spigots and see if water comes out. 4) Is it possible that you have a frozen water pipe?
Do some checking and then repost another question. I will be here until you get it fixed.
Have you checked for a major leak in the line bringing the water to your house or under the house where the line comes in? Or is it a case of the pipes being frozen? Because you did say. If it is frozen pipes leave the faucets turned on half way, because when they thaw, you don't want to much air and water rushing out at one time and going places you don't want it to.
very simple you push the middle and turn to set it to the timing you want current timing. the best times to set a recirculating pump in a water heater is 20 to 30 min before you take a shower in the mornings 15 min is adeal and dont leave the timer on for more than 15 min which represents each pin. Remember you are trying to recirculate the cold water out off the lines and replace it with new water so next time you open your faucet you get instant hot water. ones hot water is in the line you do not need the pump. i also recomend to set the pump 15 min before you get home or before you take a shower int he afternoons there is really no pint to leave the pump all day or for longer than that because the objective is to replace cold with hot water you can even set it to turn on and off every hour for 15 min at a time if someone is home all day but remember usually the recirculating pump is there for the faucets that are far away from the water heater so if you do not used them all day and only in the morning and at night before going to bed then there is really no point to leave the pump on and waste more electricity.
I too had the same problem as you with my pipes freezing, but my heat was the culprit. Basicly the problem was the same. I turned the water on in the sink and when the water thawed there the pump started and oh my god I had broken water pipes in the house under the counter, so I turned the main water valve off, or the pump from the breaker box for the well. The difference is that if you turn the well pump off then the water runs until the pressure goes down. If you turn the main water off it will stop sooner. I fixed the pipes under the sink and behind the dishwasher started to leak, Fixed that and again turned on the water again at the main valve. Ask where your main water lever is. My water started to run in the sink area, but the drains were frozen, I put a heater under the house and heated up the pvc pipe that was still frozen. Of course the toilet..... When it got alittle warmer and the heat on the pipe, things broke loose. The plumber was no where to be found because they were so busy, this worked for me and people had great ideas for me to try. When the water and the pump were turned back on all leaks were fixed and things are back to normal. I am now wiser...I hope this story helps somewhat.
Ensure that the water pump is turned off then locate the water pump in your RV. Typical locations are under the dinette, under the bed, or in a cabinet near the sink. If you can't find it, turn on a faucet and locate the noise coming from the pump (this should be really easy!). A typical water pump will be secured by 4 screws. Remove these 4 screws and slip a rubber mouse pad under the pump. Re-secure the pump being careful to not over tighten the screws. Using a mouse pad will help absorb the vibrations from the pump to the floor. Next, we will locate the rattling water pipes. Turn on the pump. Have a friend open and close any faucet while you try and locate where the clanging noise is coming from. Typical areas are where the cold water pipe passes through or runs along a cabinet wall. In this case, the cabinet acts like a sounding board and creates a lot of noise. Take some 1/2" foam pipe insulation and wrap the pipe where it rattles against the cabinet or flooring. It should slip right over and not require any securing to the pipe. But a little duct tape on each end of the insulation wouldn't hurt. Repeat this step until you have insulated all rattling pipes. Sometimes the water pump can rapid cycle on and off (cycling ON/OFF in less than 2 seconds) during low flow conditions. This can cause pulsations in the water system and create noise. To determine if adjustment is necessary, turn a faucet ON to lower than average flow of water. The pump should cycle, but its "OFF time" must be 2 seconds or longer. If the cycling is correct, no adjustment is necessary. If the pump is cycling rapidly, increase the setting by turning the adjustment screw (see image) clockwise (1 turn MAX.) until the pump operates for 1 sec. with at least 2 sec. "OFF time".