The other nite i lost my furnace, turned on faucet, woke up to no water next morning,(someone turned off the water) climbed under the trailer to where the pump and tank are, all the pipes are very well insulated there seems to be no water comng from the well line to the pump also the pump runs constantly without turning off. (i had to turn it off at the breaker) any help would be appreciated
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For this type of pump, there should be a priming plug or priming tee. Remove the plug (or tee) and pour water into the pump. Keep adding water until the pump and all of the piping to the well is full of water. If a priming plug or tee was also added on the suction side of the pump, open that section and fill all of the piping on the suction side with water. Replace the plugs/tees then open a faucet in the house. Start the pump. After 2-3 minutes, turn off the pump if no water has come through the unit. Add more water through the priming plug or tee (or multiple plugs and tees). Then repeat closing the priming ports and start the pump after opening a faucet. Once the pump is actually pumping water, turn off the open faucet. Wait for the pump to shut off once it reaches full pressure. Open one or two faucets to check that the pump is properly sensing the pressure changes and maintaining system water pressure.
If the unit didn't pull water from the well, check the piping for air leaks. See the full trouble-shooting guide in the manual. Page 9 has the priming information and page 10 has the trouble-shooting guide.
I am going to assume the circulator pump is on a hot water circulation loop. Turning the water back on could have stirred up the sediment that has collected in the bottom of the water heater. This could clog up and possibly ruin the impeller. Running for an extended period without circulating water can overheat and damage the pump also. It is a good idea to hook a hose to the water heater drain and flush out the sediment periodically. Hope this helps.
If you are trying to draw water from a lower place, you may have lost prime. It is also possible there is a reason for this loss of prime, maybe a leak on the suction piping. Remove some fitting on or near the discharge of the pump, fill the body completely with water. If it goes in, fill the entire suction piping with water, too. Open a faucet nearby, turn on the pump and wait up to 5 minutes. It should spit and sputter, sound will change, some water will discharge, but eventually, you should get steady flow.
If you lose prime again, look for leaks in the suction piping from the inlet of the pump to where the piping goes into the ground.
It is normal to have air in the water. In North Dakota where I live, it's not uncommon to have flamable natural gas come out of a faucet that is served by a well.
The only way I can think of to get rid of the air before it gets to your faucet is to install a tank in your basement on the top of the water pipe, then on top of the tank install an automatic air bleeder that is used on hot water heat.
A plumber could design a system for you and install it.
Every faucet and shower have a water saving restricter in them. Remove them from the shower head and end of the faucets.
They are about the size of a dime and with about 1/8" hole in them in which water flows out. So the flow is getting restricted from 1/2' flow to this giving you a water saving about a 1.5 gpm.
Below is some more information for the web site please check it out for further help. http://www.inspectapedia.com/water/Poor-Water-Pressure-Diagnosis.htm Poor water pressure just at certain plumbing fixtures? poor cold water pressure, hot water pressure, or both hot and cold water pressure or flow that is observed just at some plumbing fixtures in a building while flow and quantity are good at others suggests that the water flow or pressure problems are local to certain runs of supply piping or to the specific fixtures. Check the following first:
Clogged aerator or strainer on sink faucets - clogging by dirt, debris, corrosion, can significantly reduce both hot and cold water flow at a sink where the strainer needs cleaning or replacement. Unscrew the strainer from the faucet and turn on the water - if the fixture pressure or flow is much better you've probably found the problem.
Look at the aerator/strainer: inspect it, clean it, perhaps soaking it overnight in vinegar to remove corrosion and mineral build-up, or just install a new aerator/strainer.
If the water pressure reads 50 psi, then, the submersible pump is running okey. Do these: 1. Shut the power off. 2. Release the pressure of the tank by opening the gate valve and free the air inside. 3.Drain the water inside your pressure tank empty by opening the drain plug at the bottom. 4. Then, replace the drain plug . 5. Check the flow control valve. From full close position, adjust to 1/4 open position. However, if it is using a gate valve as flow control, Just open two full turn counter clockwise. 6. Put the power on. 7. And start the submersible pump and allow it to run until the pressure tank is pressurized. 8. At 20 psi pressure, open your faucet, and see if you've got water.
I would like to know the result, so just send in your e-mail . Thanks and God bless you. . 6.
IT SOUNDS LIKE IT HAS LOST PRIME. YOU NEED TO PRIME IT BUT IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU NEED TO ADD AN INLINE CHECK VALVE RIGHT WHEN IT LEAVES THE PUMP. NOT GOOD FOR IT IF IT IS TRYING TO START WITH ALOT OF BACKPRESSURE ON IT. IF THIS DOESNT FIX IT LET ME KNOW SOME MORE DETAILS LIKE WHAT KIND OF PUMP IS IT. HOPE THIS HELPS, JODY