Question about Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

10 Answers

Maytag topload washer stops during any point of cycle buses and

Smells electric hot . you can shut off wait a while and somtimes it will resume operation or not. dont know for sure but somtimes it seems like you can move adgitater or move tub back and forth and turn back on and it will restart. it just buzzzez like motor cant start but is trying. does this sound like a intermitent problem with motor and would it buzz if tripped on thermal overload?

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  • marklbrock Jan 02, 2009

    what would you check first motor, control board whats the cheepest, do i just start throwing money at it?? good used washers dont cost as much as some of the parts let alone the time to repair. will it Buzzz if the motor is tripped on an thermal over load? Can you give estamated cost of new control board?

  • marklbrock Jan 02, 2009

    no belt on this model. drive from motor is a coupling to gear box or trans. pump on other side of motor.still no one has comment on my direct questions?? how can i test motor etc?

  • marklbrock Jan 02, 2009

    On the money, checked contacts and one was not making good contact, a little tweak and some fine emry cloth fixed this frustrating problem. tborn6 really hit the nail on the head! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

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Without a load u can't test the motor unless it is burnt out and doesn't run, here is what u look for, the insulation coating on the field coils should be an amber color, kind of like wood varnish when it is dried, if the motor has been overheating u will see that this coating is very dark, in many cases almost black, it will smell burnt as well, this means the motor has been overloaded or is starting to fail, what causes this? it can be the transmission is having a problem that creates excessive drag/load on the motor, this could be bearings, the motor could also have a problem such as a shorted field winding, this reduces the power of the motor and makes it work harder to keep up with the load, the result, it overheats.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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HI
 you will need to set the washer in the agitate portion of the regular cycle. once it starts humming you will need to make 2 voltage checks.AND CHECK THIS https://www.rezspec.com/cms_download.php?mod_files%5Bfileid%5D=000000000463 -maytag topload washer stops during any point of cy - ec2a34d.jpg

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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I would suggest to check out for the motor.
The motor drives the spinning tub and agitator during wash, damp dry and spin cycles. The pump removes water from the tub and lifts it out to a drain or laundry tub. The pump may be attached to the drum drive motor directly or with a separate pump belt. On some newer machines, the pump is a separate unit with its own drive motor, which is directed by the timer or control circuit board at the appropriate time to drain the machine. Most pumps have a limit of how high or at what volume they can push water from the machine.

In one direction, the motor works through a clutch and/or a transmission to spin the wash tub at speeds from 400 to 800 rpm in top loaders and 600 to 1500 rpm in front loaders. This spinning forces water, by centrifugal force, out of clothes and into the outer tub. This water is then pumped out to a drain. Most top loaders have a two direction or reversing motor.
In the opposite direction, the motor works through the same clutch and transmission to move the agitator back and forth during the wash cycle. Modern front loaders usually have a variable speed reversing motor but no clutch or transmission since there is no agitator to move back and forth. The spin and wash speeds are controlled through circuit boards, which speed up or slow down the frequency of the voltage supplied to the drive motor.

When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:


  • It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.


  • It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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  • Master
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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Offhand, perhaps your best bet would be to perform visual inspections. A few ideas you may want to consider/explore, try or check:

  • the highest power consumer on any washer would be the heater (if one is installed) or the motor.
  • being so they would most likely cause the electric burning smell;
  • the motor will heat up and eventual burn itself if the tub/drum have a difficulty turning, too loaded or the bearings are shot/stuck;
  • the smell could also be the belt slipping (if your model uses that as a motor coupler to tub/drum);
  • if the cycle will continue/push through and finish when you give the tub a helping push, then it is possible that the starting capacitor (if used) is faulty and could also cause the electric hot smell;
  • in most units, there would be a tech sheet with wiring diagram taped to one of the panels. The wiring diagram would come in handy when troubleshooting if the problem is electrical in nature. Please post back the specific model of your Maytag Washing Machine (or confirm that it is a MAV6000).

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy New Year.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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Mark turn the motor by hand it should move freely.it dose have a protector init like a curcit breaker.also on those the pump pully drags metal to metal and can cause motor to kick onto over load.boards average around 100$ but i dont think you need one

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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This is Definately the Motor. I would absolutely start at that point.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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The first thing I would do is check the drum and make sure it is not catching on anything. Next I would check to make sure the belts are on correctly. If nothing is catching and the belts are not loose but there is buzzing and nothing is happening the problem is the motor.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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There are a points in the timer switch that have to be made for the washing machine to work correctly and also down below where the motor is there is also a set of contacts that make for the unit to work. Look byu the motor and there should be a block where the contacts make to energize the motor. that is where the burning smell is probebly coming from. take and check the contacts and if they are really burned up thats what you have to replace.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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I would suggest it's a belt that is loose

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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  • Maytag Master
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That looks like a short on wirings, or a faulty control board.

All parts must be tested and eventually replaced.


Enter model number here to find assembly diagrams and parts.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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  • Ginko
    Ginko Jan 02, 2009

    You start checking the control board, by taking apart the control assembly behind the timer control.

    You use a multimeter to test it.

    If this tested reads fine, then you test wires, motor and motor control unit. to test this parts you access the back of the appliance, undo belt routing, access and test the part, using multimeter , energizing parts (motor) testing MCU etc.

    The easiest part to access is control board.

    Also gaskets must be checked, to ensure the smell was not just a gasket torn because of a spinning problem.


    Most of this tests are not suitable for an home reapir and for safety reasons must be done by a technician.


    Enter model number here to find assembly diagrams and parts.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Jan 02, 2009

    "no belt on this model. drive from motor is a coupling to gear box or
    trans."

    Does not change anything, belt does not smell like burning, and direct traction does not either, at least not in this way, this parts are not involved.
    "still no one has comment on my
    direct questions?? how can i test motor etc?"

    Thesting the motor requires you putting the head at the back of the machine, and energizing the motor directly, after checking if there are traces of burnt on the motor wirings, and if the motor is stiff.

    The motor is powered at 110V and this kind of test must be done by a qualified technician.

    I cannot tell you to do this yourself, because if you get fried I will be jailed for life, I think this is clear enough.

    All tests and repairs (particularly ones with live power, but not only) must be done by a qualified technician.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Jan 02, 2009

    By the way, stating to your description, the most likely is the control board, check that first.

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