This really isn't a pressing issue, but whenever I turn on my stereo or switch cds or turn off my stereo, it makes this awful clanking noise...what is it even doing? Is there any way to mute that noise??? Thanks!
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Re: My XL-MP130 stereo makes a racket...
What your machine is doing is... whenever the unit is powered on or off the cd player resets itself and the clanking you hear is the cd changer resetting itself. The plastic trays of the cd player are driven by plastic gears. These gears are noisy when new, after a few years, they can make quite a clanking noise. Most cd changers of this age have similar mechanisms and this type of noise is inherent in their operation.
I'm afraid the only solution is to replace the unit. Opening the unit to lubricate the gears may cause more problems than it may solve, so I would not recommend it.
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Are you using a dry lens cleaner or one you put fluid on the brushes ? Place a small amount of isophrofyl alcohol on the small brushes of the lens cleaner and run this through 2-3 times. If problem still exists it's probably the laser,your options are to check online (google it) or drop into a stereo repair shop for a replacement. May turn out getting a new system is the cheaper and better idea as labor costs can be expensive.
The red wire from the stereo is 12v signal, basically when you turn the key on it send 12v to the red wire to make your stereo come on. Everything else is fine since you can insert and eject cds. You may have pulled the signal wire loose when you changed the ignition switch, check the wires behind the radio and the wires to the ignition switch.
Some people with this issue have had some sucess disconnecting the negative battery cable for 10 minutes to reset the stereo. After re-connecting the battery, the stereo should reset and the error message should clear at which point the CD player should also function. Apart from this, a service call at a dealer or a car stereo repair specialist are the only alternatives. Best of luck.
1)TURN CAR IGINITION "ON"
2)TURN STEREO "OFF"
3)PRESS "AUDIO" AND HOLD TILL CLOCK APPEARS IN DISPLAY
4)SET CLOCK BY PRESSING UP,DOWN & LEFT, RIGHT KEYS SITUATED NEAR SRC/AUDIO SWITCH.
5)TURN THE STEREO "OFF" AND "ON" AGAIN TO SAVE THE CLOCK SETTINGS .
6)SELECT THE "CLK " SWITCH TO ALWAYS DISPLAY CLOCK WHENEVER U ARE NOT LISTENING TO MUSIC.
Put the system in standby (ie off but plugged
in) then whilst pressing down the record button and the X-BASS/DEMO
button, press the PRESET DOWN (i.e.left hand one) button until "CLEAR
ALL" appears, then power on your system.
This gave me some functionality back i.e. i can play normal wave CD's but not mp3 ones....
yeah i have the same stereo and i know what u are talking about. to fix this all u have 2 do is press the demo/fm mode button next 2 the power button. that turns off the demo which is y it switches through the different audio functions. but i have another problem with mine it works and everything but 4 sum reasons it has problems playing burned cds, it works pretty well with cds bought but burned cds usually never work or takes min or hours 2 work. any suggestions
First, try unplugging the unit for a couple of hours. That should reset the internal microprocessor. If that fails, try pushing all of the buttons one at a time. If one of them is stuck, nothing will work properly. You should be able to feel the button working. Report back here with your results.
The clicking noise is usually the power supply "tripping" because of an over load, your explanation of the fault is very good and helps us in advising you about the fault...
Because the clicking gets slower it means that you have reduced the current being drawn from the power supply.
The item that is causing the over load is the item that when you plug it in or turn it on causes the clicking to start up...
Tyhe power supply is called a switched mode power supply and is usually a collection of transistiors capacitors resistors and a transformer all specially set up to make DC Direct Current and AC alternating current power for your electronics to work with.
These power supplies are expensive and no fuses are employed to make them work but a special detector circuit is installed to close down the power when a high current draw down is detected, Once the high draw down is detected the power supply closes itself down, so then it sees no more high current draw down so it starts up again and this causes the click as the internal transformer and capacitors once again start the cycle to operate to make the DC/AC supplies. So once started up the High current is detected and the power supply closes it self down and the cycle is repeated over and over....
Its a specialised job to locate the problem so its not something you can do your self without electronics training...