The attachment to which the wrist strap fastens has broken. It appears to have been screwed on from inside the camera body and the screw seems to have come loose. I can hear something rattle inside. Is it possible to remove the front section of the body in order to get at this and fix it? Which body screws should I use? The camera still works. If I don't get to the screw is it likely to cause a problem?
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Re: need to repair wrist strap attachment on ixus 960
First things first, the small piece that holds the strap, when broken is repairable, but it is best that you dont since there is a strong possibility that the line will give up. the best options you may have to look for are camera pouches that are designed for the camera.
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Memory card goes in a slot beside the battery, under same cover as battery. Wrist strap attaches via two small holes right side near top (holding it as you would use it). Thread the stiff thin thread through the holes then pass the carrying end through the loop that exis the far hole.
I'm not sure what problem is that you are having with the wrist strap, but on my Canon camera, I just thread the small loop end of the wrist strap through the plastic loop on the camera and then pull the other end of the strap through the small loop end. It is very hard to explain in words, but you can watch this video to get the idea:
I had the same problem and found nothing online to fix it so based on what little I could find and some common sense I got it done fairly easily. Here's what I did...if you need more detail on any step either re-read it to see if you missed something or let me know 'cause maybe I missed something.
Standard warning - you are dealing with small screws, small parts and things that might break. If you damage your camera trying this repair - please don't blame me! <G>
1) remove batteries and memory card
2) carefully remove screws around the outside.
There are: 3 on the bottom, 1 under the plastic usb cover on the left side, 3 on the right side. Once those are out, remove the clip that holds the wrist strap and you'll find 1 more on the top of the camera under the wrist strap clip.
3) starting at the bottom of the camera, gently separate the back cover from the camera body. YOU DON'T NEED TO TOTALLY REMOVE THE COVER!
4) (note the small spring on the battery hatch - when you complete the next step that spring will come out so look at where it is, which way it is and don't lose it!) While holding the cover and camera body apart slightly, use a pair of fine needlenose pliers or possibly tweezers & slide the pin that holds the hatch in place toward the back of the camera until the spring and door come off. You don't need to totally remove the pin.
5) take your new door assembly and put it in place. the fun part is the little spring - the shorter end of it has to go through a small hole at the back of the hinge area, the longer end puts pressure against the hatch. Once the spring is in place, hold it there and slide the pin back into place (I found that just allowing the cover and body to come back together moved it into place).
6) try the hatch to make sure it opens/closes freely and latches
7) put the screws back in place - note that one of them is shorter than all the others - that one goes on the top of the camera under the wrist strap clip
Hope this helps!
Please note - this is the only digital I've taken apart so I'm not likely to be able to help with other makes and models but feel free to ask!
I have the simple and cheap fix to a frustrating problem! Just take a tripod base and screw it into the bottom of the camera. The square tripod base is large enough to hold the battery cover on the camera closed without any interference. So there you go! No tape, rubber bands or other crazy contraptions! Cheap, Quick and simple. Steve in Tampa, FL
It's a fairly easy repair, but you'll need a scrap A2 to cannibalise for parts. They're fairly easy to come by and cheap on auction websites as so many A2's have broken.
What you need is the complete LCD top-plate assembly as trying to refasten the mode switch is a waste of time if the spindle is broken..
To remove it from the donor camera, remove the neck strap from the camera handgrip. Now open the battery cover and undo the screw at the far end of the battery chamber: you'll need a long precision cross-head screwdriver to do this and preferably a magnetic one to withdraw the screw and subsequently replace it. Next, look at the back of the camera, just above and to the left of the power button is another screw; remove it.
Now earth yourself with an earthing wrist strap available from any electronics store and most computer components stores as you're going to be in contact with microelectronics and you don't want to fry them with static discharge.
The panel should now lift: as you do so there are two flexible printed circuit boards to detach and one small plug. Using a pair of tweezers, or the blade of a flat precision screwdriver, ease the plug out, DO NOT just pull on the wire. The two flexible pcb's can be gently pulled from their holders, but a better way to do so is to release the clamps holding them in: the narrow, rearmost one uses a clamp which slides rearwards and the wider frontmost pcb uses a clamp which hinges upwards. The first type of clamp is black (in contrast to the white socket) and using a flat tipped 1mm screwdriver at the edges of it you can easily pop it backwards, the other one is normally blue, but can be yellow and simply flips upwards to release.
You can now completely lift off the panel complete with the mode switch.
Now do the same with your broken camera; it's much easier now that you know what to expect!
Refitting is in reverse order, take care that you don't bend the flexible pcb's any further than you need to when refitting them and be careful to reclamp them by pushing the hinged clamp downwards and sliding the other clamp in until it clicks on both sides. The miniature plug can be a bit fiddly and it's designed to only go in the right way up. refit the screw adjacent to the power button. The most awkward bit is refitting the tiny screw inside the battery chamber so just be patient with it and persevere, and don't fit it until you've checked that the camera is working correctly.
If you've done everything correctly then pat yourself on the back. If anything is not working then you've not fastened one of the pcb's or the plug correctly and will need to do the job again.
Pry the left side plate off, it says "3X Optical Zoom" on it. Get under it's edge with a very small screwdriver. There is a screw under it. Remove it. On the right side, where the wrist strap attaches, pry off the side plate. There are two screws under it. Remove them. The front and back should come off now.
I have a s5500 with the battery lid clips broken.. fuji says ,, nope no warranty on that part ,, what a joke,,$120 dollars labour plus parts and freight for repair... anyway ,, went to jaycar (electrical supplies etc) and found a small metal clip/ fastener that I used on an existing exterior screw below where the strap is located. i then placed another screw in the lid that allows the remainding hole in the fastener to slip over, works like a charm. took me around 3 minutes to do and does not affect the grip on the camera and still alllows it to be easily opened and closed. I am most pleased i now have my camera back.