The attachment to which the wrist strap fastens has broken. It appears to have been screwed on from inside the camera body and the screw seems to have come loose. I can hear something rattle inside. Is it possible to remove the front section of the body in order to get at this and fix it? Which body screws should I use? The camera still works. If I don't get to the screw is it likely to cause a problem?
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert who has answered 1,000 questions.
Re: need to repair wrist strap attachment on ixus 960
First things first, the small piece that holds the strap, when broken is repairable, but it is best that you dont since there is a strong possibility that the line will give up. the best options you may have to look for are camera pouches that are designed for the camera.
a 6ya Expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to an Expert (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The "gizmo" would be the pin that attaches the watch to the case. You can easily purchase a replacement pin or strap at any store that has watches (even Wal-Mart). These are very inexpensive and each one will cost you less than $10.
It's a fairly easy repair, but you'll need a scrap A2 to cannibalise for parts. They're fairly easy to come by and cheap on auction websites as so many A2's have broken.
What you need is the complete LCD top-plate assembly as trying to refasten the mode switch is a waste of time if the spindle is broken..
To remove it from the donor camera, remove the neck strap from the camera handgrip. Now open the battery cover and undo the screw at the far end of the battery chamber: you'll need a long precision cross-head screwdriver to do this and preferably a magnetic one to withdraw the screw and subsequently replace it. Next, look at the back of the camera, just above and to the left of the power button is another screw; remove it.
Now earth yourself with an earthing wrist strap available from any electronics store and most computer components stores as you're going to be in contact with microelectronics and you don't want to fry them with static discharge.
The panel should now lift: as you do so there are two flexible printed circuit boards to detach and one small plug. Using a pair of tweezers, or the blade of a flat precision screwdriver, ease the plug out, DO NOT just pull on the wire. The two flexible pcb's can be gently pulled from their holders, but a better way to do so is to release the clamps holding them in: the narrow, rearmost one uses a clamp which slides rearwards and the wider frontmost pcb uses a clamp which hinges upwards. The first type of clamp is black (in contrast to the white socket) and using a flat tipped 1mm screwdriver at the edges of it you can easily pop it backwards, the other one is normally blue, but can be yellow and simply flips upwards to release.
You can now completely lift off the panel complete with the mode switch.
Now do the same with your broken camera; it's much easier now that you know what to expect!
Refitting is in reverse order, take care that you don't bend the flexible pcb's any further than you need to when refitting them and be careful to reclamp them by pushing the hinged clamp downwards and sliding the other clamp in until it clicks on both sides. The miniature plug can be a bit fiddly and it's designed to only go in the right way up. refit the screw adjacent to the power button. The most awkward bit is refitting the tiny screw inside the battery chamber so just be patient with it and persevere, and don't fit it until you've checked that the camera is working correctly.
If you've done everything correctly then pat yourself on the back. If anything is not working then you've not fastened one of the pcb's or the plug correctly and will need to do the job again.
I have a s5500 with the battery lid clips broken.. fuji says ,, nope no warranty on that part ,, what a joke,,$120 dollars labour plus parts and freight for repair... anyway ,, went to jaycar (electrical supplies etc) and found a small metal clip/ fastener that I used on an existing exterior screw below where the strap is located. i then placed another screw in the lid that allows the remainding hole in the fastener to slip over, works like a charm. took me around 3 minutes to do and does not affect the grip on the camera and still alllows it to be easily opened and closed. I am most pleased i now have my camera back.