The engine runs fine, but the blade will not run fast to cut wood. It worked fine today, and then after letting it set for 30 minutes the engine started up fine, but when the trigger is pulled, the chain saw blade just moves slow. I removed the cover, cleaned and replaced. The blade is not too tight and can be moved by hand.
Have you greased your clutch bearing ever.some times they get dirty and tighten up after running a while.pull your clutch off and clean and grease bearing with a little alex grease,and I mean just a few drops.not meant to have a lot of it,too much will burn the crank shaft and you will have more problems then you started with
I just had this problem. It is possible that your chain drive teeth have jumped off the drive sprocket. There is a guide for the chain to follow and is decievingly difficult to verify that the teeth are in the drive sprocket. Turn the saw upside down, and look at the clutch. Check the chain to see if the chain is actually on the sprocket and not beside it. It looks right, but it's not.
Hope the chain brake isn't jammed on.
does the chain rotate easy bty hand when engine is off. If not check bar ,chain. and sprocket condition,may be jamming up or don't oiling.
610 clutches are on a taper so can slip or break if over tightened.
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Maybe I'm reading this wrong, but it sounds like you are saying your chainsaw is newer and runs fine, but it just isn't cutting wood well?
If that is the case then it means the chain wasn't sharpened correctly. Lots of guys do it at home and don't file down the raker teeth in front of the cutter heads, so the teeth don't grab into the wood and just nibble at the wood and make fine sawdust. It is always best to get the chain sharpened at a saw shop first so you can get an idea of the correct angles and depth of the rakers etc. After that you can try to match the saw shop for a while with a round file to take off ragged edges unless you have a decent professional saw sharpening unit.
Seems like it could be a clutch/drum issue. I have known clutches to break through the threads in the crank shaft so they appear tight but are actually broken. I'd look at the drum assembly to see why the drive to the chain is slipping.
A dull chain can certainly cause loss of cutting ability and generate a lot of heat in the chain. The clutch may be full of chain oil and is slipping. Remove the bar and chain, then wash out the clutch internals with spray carburetor cleaner and let dry out. Clean the oil passages in the drive end of the bar including the two small passages that go out from the large holes to the chain groove an each side. Clean the entire chain groove. Start the engine with the bar and chain off of the saw--you should see oil ooze out of the small port in the engine case where the bar fits to. Reassemble the bar and chain after everything is cleaned--tighten the chain until the lower run just pulls up to the bar, but you can still run the chain by hand. Make sure the chain teeth are properly file sharpened and the teeth cut toward you on the bottom run. When running, the engine should 4-stroke at speed unloaded, but immediately 2-stroke when cutting. Hold the bar tip near some cardboard while running the engine at speed for several moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil on to the cardboard. Hope this helps!
It could be a number of issues. These saws have a built in vari-torque clutch used to prevent kickbacks. Basically, when the blade binds while cutting, the arbor spins but the blade won't (prevents kick-back). It works by not over tightening the blade washer (this is the slip clutch), if you over tighten, the blade washer can't prevent kick-backs because it has no room to slip, if you under tighten, the arbor spins, but the blade won't. I'd try to tighten the blade washer 1/8 turn and see what that does. If your actual arbor shaft is not spinning, you could have a gear issue. If you hear the motor running and the arbor slips (not the slip clutch) sounds like there might be a gear issue,If the rotor is spinning (the part inside the stator-i.e. the electric motor section) but it is not transfering that movement to the arbor, it has to be a gear issue.
THE SAW IS RUNNING FINE . WHEN THE CHAIN STOPS AND THE ENGINE IS STILL RUNNING AT HI THROTTLE THE CLUTCH MAY BE WORN AND SLIPPING. PULL THE CHAIN AND BAR AND SEE IF THE CLUTCH HOUSING IS BLUEISH IN COLOR IF SO I WOULD REPLACE THE CLUTCH