The engine runs fine, but the blade will not run fast to cut wood. It worked fine today, and then after letting it set for 30 minutes the engine started up fine, but when the trigger is pulled, the chain saw blade just moves slow. I removed the cover, cleaned and replaced. The blade is not too tight and can be moved by hand.
Have you greased your clutch bearing ever.some times they get dirty and tighten up after running a while.pull your clutch off and clean and grease bearing with a little alex grease,and I mean just a few drops.not meant to have a lot of it,too much will burn the crank shaft and you will have more problems then you started with
I just had this problem. It is possible that your chain drive teeth have jumped off the drive sprocket. There is a guide for the chain to follow and is decievingly difficult to verify that the teeth are in the drive sprocket. Turn the saw upside down, and look at the clutch. Check the chain to see if the chain is actually on the sprocket and not beside it. It looks right, but it's not.
Hope the chain brake isn't jammed on.
does the chain rotate easy bty hand when engine is off. If not check bar ,chain. and sprocket condition,may be jamming up or don't oiling.
610 clutches are on a taper so can slip or break if over tightened.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Maybe I'm reading this wrong, but it sounds like you are saying your chainsaw is newer and runs fine, but it just isn't cutting wood well?
If that is the case then it means the chain wasn't sharpened correctly. Lots of guys do it at home and don't file down the raker teeth in front of the cutter heads, so the teeth don't grab into the wood and just nibble at the wood and make fine sawdust. It is always best to get the chain sharpened at a saw shop first so you can get an idea of the correct angles and depth of the rakers etc. After that you can try to match the saw shop for a while with a round file to take off ragged edges unless you have a decent professional saw sharpening unit.
Seems like it could be a clutch/drum issue. I have known clutches to break through the threads in the crank shaft so they appear tight but are actually broken. I'd look at the drum assembly to see why the drive to the chain is slipping.
Run 40:1 using fresh fuel and a modern synthetic saw oil--mix it in it's own can and be sure to shake the can thoroughly each time just before refilling the tank. Don't mix up more than a gallon unless your business is sawing. You may need to deal with a plugged fuel filter if it won't start. The oiler button was intended to supplement the pumped bar oil when cutting thick/difficult wood. Normally, it is not needed. To start, set the choke full on until you hear a pop, then back the choke off about half way before the next pull (don't forget to set the fast idle button near the throttle--squeeze the throttle, push the button and hold while releasing the throttle). As soon as you squeeze the throttle again, that will release the fast idle, so make sure the engine is warmed up and the choke off before hitting the throttle. This engine will drive a 16" bar and chain, so upgrade when the original parts wear out. Hope some of this helps!
A dull chain can certainly cause loss of cutting ability and generate a lot of heat in the chain. The clutch may be full of chain oil and is slipping. Remove the bar and chain, then wash out the clutch internals with spray carburetor cleaner and let dry out. Clean the oil passages in the drive end of the bar including the two small passages that go out from the large holes to the chain groove an each side. Clean the entire chain groove. Start the engine with the bar and chain off of the saw--you should see oil ooze out of the small port in the engine case where the bar fits to. Reassemble the bar and chain after everything is cleaned--tighten the chain until the lower run just pulls up to the bar, but you can still run the chain by hand. Make sure the chain teeth are properly file sharpened and the teeth cut toward you on the bottom run. When running, the engine should 4-stroke at speed unloaded, but immediately 2-stroke when cutting. Hold the bar tip near some cardboard while running the engine at speed for several moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil on to the cardboard. Hope this helps!
THE SAW IS RUNNING FINE . WHEN THE CHAIN STOPS AND THE ENGINE IS STILL RUNNING AT HI THROTTLE THE CLUTCH MAY BE WORN AND SLIPPING. PULL THE CHAIN AND BAR AND SEE IF THE CLUTCH HOUSING IS BLUEISH IN COLOR IF SO I WOULD REPLACE THE CLUTCH