I wired this amp in my 2003 Jaguar S-Type an an Alpine 10" sub. The amp is a four channel and I am trying to bridge channels 1 and 2. All I am getting is a thump from the sub about every ten or fifteen seconds. The amp seems to be wired correctly.
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Re: Power Acoustik Area 51 Amplifier
Make sure your sub is wired in bridged mode also and not to an ohm load that is too small for your amp to take. Such as a 1 ohm load or a .5 ohm load. A great way to figure this out is to go to Crutchfield and find their section on subwoofer wiring diagrams. Another good source is www.the12volt.com which also will show you all options. you must be presenting a 4 ohm load from your sub to the amp because it's smallest impedence is 2 ohm stable. Then you bridge at the amp which is 2 ohms to each channel you are trying to bridge.
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There are a couple different ways you can wire up this speaker as it is a DVC speaker. Duel Voice coil, it has two + post and two - post. A dual 4-ohm voice coil subwoofer with its coils wired in parallel presents a 2-ohm load to your amplifier. Since an amplifier produces more wattage at a lower impedance, the parallel connection ensures you'll get the most output from your amp.
Series wiring lets you configure multiple woofers to one amplifier at an acceptable impedance. Wire both coils in series for an 8-ohm impedance, and then wire two 8-ohm subs together in parallel for 4-ohm total impedance.
You can wire each voice coil to a separate channel of your amplifier, if you prefer not to bridge your amp. Independent wiring is a nice option if you're wiring two DVC subs to a 4-channel amplifier - one voice coil per channel
Depending on what you are hooking it up to i.e. a mono amp or a bridged four channel amp. I can tell you post to wire exactly if I know how you want to hook it up and what ur hooking it up to.
if you bridge it i believe you run at 4 ohms instead of 8 even if the subs are wired together i would not bridge it for fear of blowing the subs. if you where to bridge it it would be the left channel on one terminal and the right on the opposite terminal. but i highly advise against bridging it as they are wired together. its running at the proper impedence NOT bridged.
run two 6x8s on each of the front channels of the amp. then depending on the sub you can bridge it on the rear channels.only if its a single four ohm. if its a dual 2 ohm sub run each coil on each channel. 1 coil-1channel. the other coil-the other channel. amp should run fine may run a little hot since it will be doing all it can do at a safe ohm load. just make sure it is mounted in a well vented area. should be safe.
You are doing right on what you described. I really like to work with a clearly described what involved in an issue.
Now we have to use a Voltmeter to check if there is power to the amplifier. If there is power to the amplifier terminal, then the problem is at the amplifier, not the connection. Let check it out:
1- Turn on your Kenwood radio, make sure to hear sound from your regular speakers.
2- Turn remote control knob to the mid level between min and max.
3- Measure the blue wire where you spliced to ground to see if you have 12V, if it is not then the problem is right there.
4- Measure the Red wire power from the Amplifier to ground ( the bolt that you connect the negative power to see if there is 12V, if not trace back to the Fuse that you inserted between the positive terminal of the battery and the wire going through the firewall to correct it.
5- If you have 12V at step 3 and 4, then you have a defect unit, return it to the manufacturer for a replacement.
it can be used as a bass amp. if each pair of channels is bridged then you will basically have a 2 channel amp. just be sure to set the x-over's to lpf for subwoofers. I checked the power ratings, and bridged at a 4 ohm load will give you 250 rms watts per sub, so thats enough to run most 10's or 12's. there wasnt a rating for a 2 ohm load, but your amp should support it.
Well, that's a 2-channel amp, so it's really best used to power a set of regular speakers.
The best power solution, for your existing components, is to wire each of your subs voice coils in parallel, resulting in a 2 ohm load, and then run each sub off a separate channel from the amp.
The amp is stable only to 4 ohms in bridged mode, so you would series the sub voice coils (8 ohm load) and then parallel them (4 ohm load) to the amp bridged connection. This will result in less power to each sub than if you ran them separately.
I'm assuming this atleast a 2 channel amplifier all you need to do is hook the negative side of the speaker wire coming from the sub to the negative channel one. and the positive to another positive on channel 2. Should indicate on your amplifier channel one and two. most amps provide a diagram right on the amplifier over top of the speaker inputs. let me know if this helps.
first whats the range in terms of WATTS that your 12" sub can handle in 4 OHMS ? second , lets check the AMP , POWER ACOUSTIK 1800 WATTS , Now thats a lot of power to drive a single 12" sub speaker . your amp is 1800 watts , per channel is around 500 watts , if BRIDGE thats around 1600 watts rms for ONE channel , if your sub can handle that kind of wattage fine , but it will not blow the amp , what it does is shuts down , some kind of protection mode , it will come back on after a minute or so. I suggest to use one channel in stereo mode , or purchase another sub to use the other channel. i hope this helps AJ
did you read your instruction manual. does it says "it could be bridged to other amp"?. you can't make a bridge to amplifier that is not bridgeable. bridging an amp is a way which it is made through transistor type ampilfier by bridging more transistor inside and more voltage is required for bridging.
I don't know if we could do to an IC type amplifier. ask an experts about bridging IC types how to bridge maybe they know how.
and if you had an successful bridging, you may have a problem through your speakers, they may hit hard but you will experience some errors through your speakers and easy to worn.