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Re: sony xplod 1200 watt amp quit no kind of protect...
Short answer yes...
There are many different ways that an amp can fail but the two most common failures are shorted output transistors and blown power supply transistors (< those are not blown). There are several types of protection circuits in amplifiers. The most common are over-current and thermal. The over-current protection is supposed to protect the output transistors. Sometimes it doesn't work well enough to prevent the failure of the output transistors but it will work well enough to shut the supply down before the power supply FETs are destroyed. If the amp remains in protect mode, goes into protect mode or blows the fuse as soon as the remote voltage is applied, shorted output transistors are almost certainly the cause.
If the fuse protecting the amp is too large, if the protection circuit doesn't respond quickly enough or if the power supply is poorly designed, the power supply transistors may fail. If you see a lot of black soot on the power supply transistors (near the power transformer), the power supply transistors have failed. Soot on the board doesn't necessarily mean the transistors have failed. Sometimes, technicians don't clean up the mess from a previous failure.
Transistor Failure/Checking Transistors:
In general, when a transistor fails, it will either short (common for output AND power supply transistors) or open (common for power supply transistors). Transistors act like valves. They control the current flowing through a circuit. A shorted transistor acts like a valve that's stuck open (passing too much current). In the case of an output transistor, the shorted transistors tries to deliver the full rail voltage to the speaker output terminal. If you've ever seen a damaged amp that pushed or pulled the speaker cone to its limits when the amp powered up (common on some Rockford amplifiers), that was almost certainly due to a shorted output transistor. When checking transistors, you most commonly look for shorted connections inside the transistor. You do this by using a multimeter to look for low resistance connections between the transistor's terminals.
I used the terms short and open on the previous paragraph. A short (short circuit) is a path through which current flows that should not be there. An open (open circuit) is a break in the circuit.
It is most likely the power supply that has taken a ****.
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OK what you are saying now is that your speakers are dual voice coil; models? 4 Ohms per Coil? I have always used single 4 Ohm Voice ciol speakers since amps are mostly based on 4 Ohm outputs. but you can get 8 Ohm dual voice coil subs also. With 8 Ohms per coil you can get 4 Ohms if you parallel the wires. What is best for you and will get you the most stable power and still will be in the specs of that amp is to run the amp in BRIDGED MODE running each subs voice coils in series with each other then run those 2 subs in parallel to the amplifier giving it a 4 Ohm load. So, your will have two sets of wires from your amp 1 for each speaker. Then you will take a short piece of wire that will connect the + to the - of each voice coil then hook up the wires from your amp to each sub What it will be is 4 Ohms + 4 Ohms = 8 Ohms per speaker the 8 Ohms in parallel each speaker to the Bridged amp output using just the + from one channel and the - from the other will give you a total of 4 ohms and power out put of 600 Watts so that ends up being 150 watts per voice coil or 300 watts each speaker
You either have a short in your wiring (between the amp and the sub) or have wired the sub(s) at too low of a resistance. If for example you have wired it to 2 ohms, when the amp can only support a 4ohm minimum, the protect light would come on once you tried to turn up the volume a bit. This may happen if you have lost the wiring off one of your subs or one of the voice coils, thereby affecting the total resistance.
You only gave us the model of the amp so I will make an assumption that your 12" subs are the Sony XS-GTX120LW. First, they cannot hold 1200 watts a piece. They are meant to be powered with 350 watts RMS. They will hold 1200 watts peak. That means that 1200 watts for a few seconds will be ok. Past that and kiss them goodbye!
Next you indicated that bridged the amp. Since the subs are both 4 ohm single voice coils did you wire them in series or parallel?
It sounds to me like you wired them in parallel resulting in the amp seeing a 2 ohm load. The amp you referenced is only stable when bridged at 4 ohms.
Has the amp begun working again once it cooled down? If not you could have fried the outputs by having the resistance too low.
The Kicker L7 has an RMS power range of from 50-750 watts and a maximum power handling capability of 1,500 watts so your Sony amp will power it OK. A more powerful monoblock like the Alpine MRP-M1000 or the Kicker 08ZX750.1 would provide even more power and could operate safely at 2ohms.
You have the voice coils wired properly for the Sony amp. It's OK to have the sub impedance higher, but you definitely do not want it lower than the 4ohms the amp is rated at in bridged mode.
If you have the Kicker model number 06CVX122, with dual 2ohm voice coils, they can be connected to a mono amp at 2ohms. First jumper the voice coils in series, the dotted positive (+) to the undotted negative (-) (or vice versa). Each sub is now 4ohms. Then wire both of the remaining positives and negatives together on the amp terminals (in parallel). The amp sees a 2ohm load. Here's the diagram:
If you have the Kicker model number 06CVX124 with dual 4ohm voice coils, they cannot be wired to present a 2ohm load. They can only be wired as a 1ohm load (too low for the amp) or as a 4ohm load (at reduced power). Here is the diagram of the 4ohm wiring:
asuming the 8s are 4ohms each; wire two in series and that gives you 8ohms then two more in series then you put those together in parallel and it gives you a 4ohm load. repeat with other four for the other side. you should then be able to bridge the sub
series; posative of one speaker to negative of other speaker and that doubles your ohms
parallel; posative to posative negative to negative and that cuts the ohms in half
Almost all after market amps use 12v at very very low amperage to trigger the amp on. A temporary jumper from the battery plus terminal on the amp AFTER the battery and ground wires are attached should cause the amp to turn on. I would check to see if you have attached your speaker load correctly ESPECIALLY if you are bridging. Most of the blown amps that come into my shop are due to incorrect bridging loads from the speakers. Note that a 4ohm load bridged across both outputs of an amp will deliver a 2ohm load to each of the channels. When you parallel wire two 4ohm speakers together and then attached them to a bridged amp you will be putting a 1 (one) ohm load to each channel of the amp. Please don't make this mistake. It will fry your amp in about a month. Hope this helps. Good luck.