The flint element might need to be replace...(pilot light) I had the same problem the dry had a burned smell...which meant that the element wasn't working properly and finally the drying wound't heat anymore
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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UNPLUG WASHING MACHINE FROM ELECTRICAL SOCKET.REMOVE BACK PANEL FROM WASHING MACHINE AND CHECK ALL BELTS ARE ON THE PULLEYS OR WORN AND NEED REPLACING. IF BELTS ARE OKAY REPLACE BACK PANEL AND REPLACE PLUG INTO ELECTRICAL SOCKET SWITCH WASHING MACHINE ON THEN TURN OFF AT WALL SOCKET. WAIT FOR FIVE MINUTES EXACTLY. PUT A TEA TOEL IN THE FRONT LOADER, TURN ON WASHING MACHINE AND PROGRAM TO SPIN RINSE, PRESS START BUTTON AND ALL SHOULD BE WELL. GOOD LUCK!
Either something is binding the blower wheel up or the motor is bad. The best thing is to take the front of the machine off to access the blower wheel to verify ifanything is indeed binding it.IF not read the next section.
If you can turn the drum and then the dryer starts you have a bad motor. The way the dryer works is when you initially push the start button, electricity is sent to the start winding, or stator, of the motor. This will in turn start the motor turning. From there the stator will drop out of the electrical process and at the same time the run winding, or rotor, will take over and the motor will continie to run. Your stator is damaged, has a burn spot, etc so by you turning the drum, the belt around the drum is moved which is attached to the motor pulley. You basically take the place of the stator. Long story short, you have a bad motor.
NOTE: Before you remove the idler pulley and belt note carefully the installation position of the belt, idler arm, spring and the idler pulley. For a first timer trying to do this it can be quite frustrating to get them all positioned correctly.
you may have a bad bearing in a pulley,could be motor coupling. Take belt off and spin motor shaft and pulley both ways if it's free, then its more than likely not the motor. Now spin the drum with belt off and see if it does the same as with the belt on if it does it has to be a bad bearing or coupling to the drum. hope this helps
Starting in November 2008--LG introduced "square door" model washers.
These washers will (unlike round door models) perform very well on wood floors.
If the WM2487 washer is on a wood floor--even a tiled wood floor--it will be near impossible to get smooth spin performance.
Some homeowners have had success by adding two layers of 3/4 inch wood under the washer AND dryer.
The following steps were taken:
1) Remove washer & dryer
2) Cut & remove any floor covering (bare wood)
3) Locate floor joists with a stud-finder & mark locations at the edge of the flooring--allows finding the joist locations after 3/4 sheet is laid to floor.
4) Add wood glue to floor
5) Place 3/4 inch wood sheet to floor & drive screws thru wood into joists (as many scews as deemed necessary to fully & completely compress wood sheet to existing floor
6) Add wood glue to 1st wood sheet
7) Place 2nd 3/4 inch wood sheet on top of 1st wood layer and drive screws into floor joists.
8) Add molding if desired
9) Re-install washer & dryer and level.
10) Add one heavy towel into washer tub & close door ( this will mimick an off-center load)
11) Press power "on" button
12) Press "Spin Speed" button & select high speed spin option
13) Press "Start" button
14) When * 9 minutes remaining * is displayed--use the flat wrenchette that comes with every LG washer to "tweak" the adjustment of the front leveling legs. This will allow for "fine tuning" adjustment of the front leveling leg(s) to eliminate vibration / noise during the spin cycle. The rear leveling legs DO NOT need further adjustment.
NOTE: Those with pedestals--check the front leveling legs on the washer and on the pedestals (front only) during spin.
The drive belt (or belts) of a washing machine may become worn or damaged, causing noisy operation or stopping the washer entirely. A damaged drive belt is easy to replace. Remove the back panel of the washer to gain access to the belt. To remove the belt:
Step 1: Loosen the bolt on the motor bracket and move the motor to put slack in the belt.
Step 2: Remove the old belt and stretch a new one into place on the pulleys.
Step 3: To put tension on the new belt, use a hammer handle or a short pry bar to push the motor into position while you tighten the bolt in the adjustable bracket. The belt should have about 1/2 inch deflection when you press on it at the center point, midway between the pulleys. If the belt is too loose, it will slip on the pulleys, causing the machine to malfunction. If the belt is too tight, it will wear very quickly and will probably become so hot that it will start to smoke or smell.
Loose pulleys can also cause problems. Most pulleys are fastened to shafts with setscrews around the hub of the pulley. These screws must be tight or else the pulley or belt will slip. The resulting malfunction may seem to be caused by a faulty motor, but it can be corrected by tightening the pulleys and adjusting the belt. For this reason, always check the belts and pulleys before working on the motor.
the motor is bad i run in to this a lot in the field the motor isn't strong enough to pull the drum but it is good enough to pull itself replace the motor and this should take care of the problem good luck
Maytag perfoma washing machine
I just encountered this (won't spin) problem and was helped by a very courteous repairman. The machine set for several days between uses, my wife then decided to wash a load. It went through the agitation cycle fine, but when it came time for it to spin, all that happened it the motot kicked in and it started to smell hot. I checked to see if it was a belt and found that both belts were fine. I then called the shop were I bought the unit and talked to the repairman. He had me remove both belts, and check to see if the center pulley would turn. I could turn it clockwise, but not CCW. I then inserted a screwdriver into the pulley to act as a lever and pulled sharply. The drum broke loose and I was able to turn it. It seems that the upper bearing on the shaft becomes corroded from water leaking into the bearing. The machine is about 5 years old. I turned the timer to spin and it did not move, however, I had taken off the front cover. ( There are two clips on the bottm which hold the front cover in place. These need to be pried open to release the front. The cover is then raised to about 45 degrees and it will slip off) by pulling on the motor I could get the tub to spin. I ran it through the spin cycle several times to loosen up that bearing and it works fine. I do have to make sure the unit is used every day or two to prevent the unit from siezing up.
The repair for this problemm is rather expensive so I will be looking to replace this machine in short order. However,thanks to the repairman for leading me through this while he was on the phone. This is the one advantage of buying a unit from a full service dealer.
Posted by WFD 1/25/07