Question about Dell UltraScan P1110 21" CRT Monitor
Completely dead - no LED in on/off switch. Suspect power supply, however, first problem is how to get the back off without damaging the plastics - does it need a special tool? There is a rectangular hole about 3mm x 8mm with a picture of a lock next to it - is this something to do with it?
Thank you all for the suggestions it turned out my PC was still under warranty so they send us a new monitor:-)
Posted on Jul 09, 2008
Although similar, this monitor and the associated repair is different than the "b" version. The link above is good to follow for finding out how to open your case but the actual repair is different. If you have minor soldering skills (really the de-soldering is the hard part) and can use a phillips screw driver you can make this repair.
I contacted Tom at a link I found on the "b" site and he sent me the typical components to fail for the "c" monitor. $20 and $1.35 for shipping. The site looks to be down now so I'm not sure if this is temporary or he's stopped selling parts. He is also willing to fix the board if you send it to him. Here's what you need to do:
Replace C922 and C923 with 1000uF 35V caps
Replace c924 and C925 with 470uF 25V caps
Re-solder L201 and L202 with fresh solder.
I did all of the above and the monitor works perfectly. When you take the monitor apart make sure you note where the blue and pink wires go (you'll know what I mean when you get to that stage). The connectors are identical and it would be easy to forget which way they were installed.
Posted on Aug 09, 2008
I just repaired 3 1800FP's - all dead, no lights.
Firstly a dead 2AS01 is 95% of the problem, because some fool designer left out the protective zener diode - cheapness.
Mouser Electronics does not have this part, but lists it at 37 cents in lots of 2500, and gettable at $2.66 somewhere else.
You must also replace the two small value electrolytics near this IC, as some had an ESR of 40 where <0.5 is where it should be.
I suppose as the electro's dry out, the spikes can zap the IC. The quacks on ebay flogging 2sa01's alone, probably hope to sell you another one down the track (at a fat markup).
There are 2 'Sam Young 2200uf' electros that really should be replaced, with ESR or 2-30 ! Ideally replace ALL electros, as the others will be off - but those 4 as a minimum and using a jewelers loupe, resolder other joints on the transformer and anything that looks more dull silverish, than the rest. A 1 inch used and worn paint scraper will get the case open easy.
DANGER, CAUTION : Finally when refitting the inverter board, ensure the steel tab is over the TOP middle of the board facing away from the power socket (SO YOU CAN SEE IT) . The board sides in flat. It is possible to scew the board down with a slight bend, with the tab pressing over the pcb tracks - very , very bad!
Now all I need is for some kind soul to improve the fix by stating what the value of the missing zener should be.
PS. Just because the caps are not bulging does not mean they should be OK. Most wrecked 10 year old power supplies have better ESR's, so the electronics must be hot under the cover.
I have seen bulging caps with a GOOD ESR, and non bulging ones with an ESR of 47.
Posted on Aug 28, 2008
I have the same problem. I talked to a few people and it is believed that the condition has been caused by a power surge.
My monitor is out of warranty, so I intend to open it up to check the fuse(s).
I will post result of that soon.
Posted on Sep 09, 2008
Is the power blinking amber? This is a DPMS power-save mode. With the computer disconnected and the monitor on, do you see the colored self-test block floating around? With the monitor on, computer connected, and you still have no image displayed, take a bright flashlight and examine the screen closely. If you can see a very dim display in the screen, the fluorescent tubes which light up the *background* and provide the vivid picture(sort of like a how an x-ray picture viewer works) are defective. The power light blinking may be the power supply sensing the non-functioning tubes or it could just be bad. If your display is under warranty, replace it. If not, trying to have the monitor repaired for this type of problem is almost as costly as a new one--and there won't be an active warranty on anything else that might fail. Hope I helped you.---Rick
Posted on Sep 10, 2009
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