Only when in high torque load conditions, as in highway conditions at 45 - 65 mph and begin to enter a slight incline grade in overdrive,(with cruise on or off) keeping throttle steady engine rpm naturally begins to slowly reduce, the Erratic Missing Symptom begins and maintains until grade is overcome. During incline grade if throttle is increased to shift transmission down symptom may reduce but is still present. Under flat road and city driving conditions problem never presents itself. After running several fuel treatments and conditioners, replacing fuel filter, distributor cap, rotor, wires and plugs problem persists. 125 K. I run premium grade fuel. Midrange or regular octane greatly increases symptom and in addition adds ping.
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sounds like a spark knock. I would set the timing on the engine and if it is ok try some higher octane fuel in the engine or mix some low and high octane gas about 50/50 and see if that helps the condition. If not move the engine timing ahead about 5 degrees. You don't want to move it to far or else the engine will be hard to turn over and start.
To properly diagnose your overheating problem we need to rule out some things. First: Is there enough coolant/antifreeze in the radiator? Don't just look inside the plastic overflow bottle, but remove the radiator cap (when the engine is cold) and look inside the radiator. You should be able to physically see the fluid level if it is at its proper level.
Most cars and trucks will hold 1 1/2-2 gallons of coolant and water mixture. If you have to add more than a pint of fluid you should have the cooling system pressure tested for a leak. If you see any obvious fluid loss on the ground or in the engine compartment, you should also have the system tested for leaks. Second: If no coolant leak or low fluid level is present, then determine when the overheating complaint occurs. If the engine overheats while at a stop or idle only: Most front wheel drive cars use an electric cooling fan motor located in front or behind the radiator.
The function of the cooling fan is to improve airflow across the radiator at stops and low speeds. The fan is controlled by sensors that regulate the engine temperature and additional load that might be placed on the engine. The air conditioning compressor will require the cooling fan to operate at idle as long as the compressor is on. A quick way to check the cooling fan operation is to turn on the air conditioner. The cooling fan should come on with the air conditioner compressor. Some cars will have two electric fans, one is for the radiator and the other is the air conditioner condenser fan. Usually the radiator fan is closer to the middle of the radiator. The radiator fan is responsible for engine cooling, and the condenser fan is responsible for increasing air conditioning efficiency at idle and low speed. If your vehicle does not have an electric cooling fan on the radiator it will have a belt driven fan blade and fan clutch. This fan should be pulling a large amount of warm to hot air across the radiator onto the engine. What you want to determine with either fan situation is that there is ample airflow across the radiator at idle. The radiator is the primary heat exchange for the engine, and airflow is crucial. What if the engine overheats while at high speeds on the freeway? Again, airflow and coolant circulation are crucial. At 55 MPH we can assume you have ample airflow across the radiator, so proper antifreeze circulation is the thing to inspect. I compare overheating at 55MPH to jogging with a sock in your mouth. The faster and longer you jog, the more air you are going to require, and with a sock in your mouth you are going to have to breath extra hard to maintain the proper amount of air to keep you going. At 55MPH the water pump is pumping a large amount of hot antifreeze throughout the cooling system. If there is a restriction in the system like a kinked radiator hose, a restricted radiator, or a stuck thermostat, it will produce the same affect as the sock in the mouth scenario.
Rust and water calcification can accumulate in the radiator and drastically reduce the flow of coolant at high speeds. Removing the radiator from the vehicle for disassembly and cleaning or radiator replacement are the only two real cures for a clogged radiator. Using a can of "radiator flush" additive might help as preventive maintenance, but will probably just be a waste of time and money trying to correct a restricted radiator.
You must put the alarm on a valet mode to see if the alarm is causing this problem To enter or exit Valet Mode
1. Turn the ignition on
2. Turn the ignition off
3. Press and release the valet switch within 10 seconds
The status Led will light solidly if you are entering valet mode, and it will go out if you are exiting valet mode.
To enter or exit Valet Mode using the transmitter:
1. Open any vehicle door.
2. Press and realese lock and unlock buttons at the same time
3. Press and realese Aux button
4. Press and realese the lock and unlock button at the same time again
The status led will light solidly if you are entering Valet Mode and it will go out if you are exiting Valet Mode
Now when in Valet Mode try to start the engine, if the problem persist the alarm has nothing to do with it
it could be the torque convertor. this is a device that connects the engine to the transmission. It can also be the on board computer if you have one.
If you have an onboard computer I suggest you get a diagnostic done. If your dont have one (more than likely) have a look at the torque convertor. Other than that I'd suggest you have a transmission specialiest look at it.
Also verify its wired up correctly or the connectors arent damaged. Like neutralising switch, gear shifter cable an over drive / econ mode etc.