Question about KitchenAid A-9 Electric Burr Grinder

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Broken shear pin in kitchenaid A9 Coffee Grinder

I disassembled the unit and found the broken pin, I need to know, where I can find the replacement pin.

Thanks

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  • yellowtoys Jan 03, 2009

    There is a website that I just found called smallparts.com. they have stainless steel dowel pins in a 10pk for about $7. You need a pin-3/32ODx1/2 in.

  • laf442001 Apr 09, 2009

    I've taken mine apart and 2 pins fell out. I'm not sure how to put it back together.

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I was able to find 3/32 x 1/2 inch spring pins at a local hardware for 13 cents each. They may not last as long, but at the price I can replace as needed.

I also had to disassemble twice; I didn't notice that a portion of the old pin was wedged in the underside of the burr. When I put it back together the first time, the new pin rested on the old fragment and pressed the burrs too close together. On the coarsest possible setting, I got coffee powder!

Final note: The nut for the cap over the burrs is reverse-threaded...use a wrench on top, and a flat-blade screw driver in the slot at the bottom of the motor shaft.

Posted on Aug 11, 2009

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I just finished disassembling the grinder assembly on a K-A, A9 grinder to find a broken shear pin, and then, this site.

Although the suggestions to use a stainless steel pin, or a portion of a drill bit may make a cheaper, stronger repair, the use of anything other than either a correct original replacement, or a soft steel pin, is not a good idea for this repair.

Shear pins are a fail-safe device, used to prevent major, and often expensive damage to rotating parts. This is comparable to a fuse in an electrical circuit. Using pins that are less likely to break than the original, is comparable to replacing a 20 amp fuse protecting a circuit in your kitchen, with a 30 amp fuse, because using a coffee maker, a toaster, and a microwave at the same time will blow the fuse. Not a good idea, since the wiring for the kitchen would become overloaded and could start a fire.

A stainless steel pin would likely not break when overloaded. A drill bit pin, being a very hard material, if it does break, may shatter and tear up the shaft and the bottom of the grinder assembly. Either one of these, as well as other possible pins like spring steel rollpins, should not be used, because, should the grinder become overloaded, or a small stone from the coffee plantation winds up in a bag of beans and jams the grinding burrs on it's way through, the failure of the pin to break when required, will likely destroy the motor shaft or the hub, parts that you won't find easily or cheap.

Ken

Posted on Feb 09, 2010

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I found a 3/32 x 1/2 inch pin at Home Depot in a package for 2 for for 46 cents + Tax, it works great! They called it TENSION PIN, it made of steel/zinc plated, and it's hollow.
Someone on ebay sold it for $4 each with free shipping...

Posted on Jun 01, 2010

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If you can't find a pin, drive or press out the old one and then purchase a 3/32" drill bit and cut to length. Careful not to damage the driveshaft when pressing or driving in the new "homemade pin. FYI, this is a chronic problem with this model of grinder

Posted on May 25, 2009

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Anyone know what the original shear pin material was? I can get brass pins in the correct size; but, don't know if that is the correct material.

Posted on Apr 13, 2010

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Check on ebay they have these.

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

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If shear pin then the grinders won't turn or may intermittently rotate if pin is half broken
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Patricia, I am not sure which model you have old or new. I have the old one built in the 30's. I had to replace the shear pin and the carbon brushes for the motor. I took the bottom off which has a ball bearing resting loosely in a cavity in the bottom plate. Don't lose it. Now the brushes I found at an ace hardware. Take the old ones to compare. I think there was a bracket holding the brushes and rotor in. Once the rotor was out you could get the brushes out. Putting the brushes in required figuring out how to keep the brushes retracted. I used a piece of paper and used it hold them back while sliding in the rotor. Once in pull the paper out.
Now the shear pin needs to be in to prevent damage to the grinder in case what you are grinding has something too hard to grind like a small rock, I think if you push up on the rotor when the bottom plate is off or pulling up on the shaft it might give enough clearance to put the shear pin in. It sits very close to the bottom of the shaft so it can be fun trying to line it up. I used needle nose pliers to hold the pin just right while pulling up on the shaft. I bought the shear pin off of ebay

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