When I attept to take photos in low light or take pictures where the subject is back lit then my built in flash is not popping up instead I get an error 05 message and I have to turn the camera off and back on again. Will I need to get the camera repaired professionaly or is there an easy fix?
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Those quick fast flashes usually mean the camera is trying to find contrast to take the photo but it can't. The scene might be to dark and the camera can not set it's focus and there for cannot take a picture. Move the camera slightly from left to right on the subject and see if it can manage to set focus. It's normal for the camera to give out these quick flashes as it is trying to find some sort of contrast in the subject, turning on a room light might help this?
Now when you manually focus, then the camera does not have to use it's built in auto focus sensor and will let you take a photo when you manually focus on the subject.
Wanting to lessen the power of your flash with under exposing your picture/subject? Want to add natural light bounce to your subject and lessen shadows? Wanting to have a pop-up flash diffuser without spending a dime?How about removing shadow cast when doing some macro shots? If your answer to these questions are YES, then time to read this DIY guide. This should be easy to follow and the material(s) needed should be available in your home. First, let's briefly discuss what a diffuser is. Adiffuser lessens the strong/ harsh light coming from your camera's built-in pop-upflash, creating a softer and distributes the light evenly on your picture. There are lots of pop up diffusers out there and are relatively cheap. However here's one that I've tried and tested and worked fine for me. Take the cap of your empty roll-on(deo) place it with your hand, right at the front of the pop-up flash(in it's popped out position). Then take a picture using flash. Try it with and w/o the cap to see the difference. Not impressed? Try it first and explore new ways of getting better pictures.
The 'fluttering' is a pre flash used to help the camera focus in low light. The internal flash isn't a powerful flash and is usually only good enough for subjects up to about 2m away in reasonable light also to light a subject that is back lit. Try putting the camera in manual mode (M) 1/60sec on f5.6 flash popped up review it and make adjustments accordingly i.e. open up or shut down the aperture as the flash usually syncs at 1/60
I'm going to say you have set the camera in one of the preset modes for portraiture, macro or something which would automatically pop up the flash. When the camera light sensor reads the light possibly because you have focused on a white dress, shirt or some other bright spot in the scene or subject it doesn't flash due to over exposure. To try this theory try taking a picture in a dimly lit room. Also you may find better results if you turn the dial to "P" for program and activate the flash manually with the little button. OR be brave and switch the dial to "M" for manual set your aperture at say F8 and your shutter speed at 1/125 pop up the flash and make the shot assuming you are doing a portrait type shot 10 to 12 feet away.
It's the Inverse Square Law. Light drops off as the square of the distance. If an object is twice as far from the light source it only receives a quarter as much light. So, if the subject is lit properly then the background will be dark.
This is a law of physics. However, there are several things you can do about this. One is to move the light source. Another is to have more than one. The D80 can control other flashes, so you can use the D80's pop-up flash to light the subject and the SB-600 (or more than one of them) to light the background. Another possibility is to bounce the flash off a white ceiling or wall to soften and diffuse the light. Another is to use slow-sync, leaving the shutter open longer to let the background illuminate. You can read more about this in the manual.
The best way to avoid red-eye is to have the flash as far away from the
lens as possible. If you can mount an external flash onto the flash
bracket, use that instead of a built-in or pop-up flash. Similarly, you
can use bounce mode to make the light fall on the subject at a
different angle/direction from the lens.
This is the camera trying to give itself enough light to focus with.
As it uses contrast to focus with you will get problems in low light conditions. There's no way round this I'm afraid except to light the subject better. As it's a digital camera and you're not wasting film, try manual focus and see what results you get.
The built-in Speedlight on many Nikon cameras is designed to be a convenient way to either light up a dark subject or to add fill light to a daytime scene. The built-in Speedlight cannot replace a full size, external speedlight which should be used when more power or coverage are needed.
Because the built-in Speedlight is compact and close to the camera it cannot be used under all conditions. When using a lens that is physically very long, a subject that is very close, or a wide lens hood it is possible that a shadow may be cast upon the subject. Notice, in the sample below, the round shadow in the bottom center of the photo.
When the lens is too long or the coverage is too wide with a close subject a shadow of the lens itself is cast. In figure "A" below the lens is casting a shadow. Switching (or zooming) to a shorter lens (figure "B") prevents the shadow and allows even illumination.
If your lens, subject, or lens hood choice create a shadow, an external flash (either on the camera's hot-shoe or connected to the camera by a wire or wirelessly) should be used to fully light the subject.