- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If the inline pump is not working no hot water will flow into your radiators. The pump pushes the water in the lines to create a water flow. Increasing the pressure will not help in this case. I recommend you put the pressure back down as it usually is preset when the boiler is installed. My pump is about three feet back of the boiler on the intake line. If you don't know what you are doing I recommend getting a repair man as you could create more problems by over heating the boiler its self and blowing the electrical parts up.
water vapour is one the main products of combustion of gas. With a standard efficiency boiler, upon initial heat up when the flue is cold this vapour can condensate on the inner wall of the flue but should stop once the flue heats up, to stop this condense dripping back on to the heat exchanger the flue should be tilted towards the outlet and thus on initial heat up water can drip from the flue. with high efficiency (condensing) boilers, condensation will occur in the flue and secondary heat exchanger during normal operation, dispense of this condensate is accommodated for in the boiler and therefor the flue should be tilted towards the boiler, if not the flue will drip constantly.
All the combis I've come across merely fail to fire if the pressure is not up. not only do they not fire, nothing else works including the pump and in any event the pump should not overheat just on low pressure. water loss - try turning off the valves on the flow & return pipes [3/4 inch ones] 1 valve per pipe . This will isolate the rest of the system - rads etc Note pressure over a time period. In this mode the hot water circuit will still work but do NOT use the heating circuit 1/2 bar over 2 days is not serious but it should be found Once you have either mended the leak in the rest of the system or found there is not one, insist on a replacement boiler In any event having looked at the reasons given for the fuse blowing, I would definitely get a replacement. These problems should not happen on a new boiler I list Worcester.-Ariston-GlowWorm-Ideal- and many others who would confirm this
That overflow is the Pressure Relief Valve.usually they are set at 3-3.5 bar but over time they can be gunged up inside and leak/allow water to flow out. Dismantle & clean or replace. Turn off mains water and ch pipes before removing - operate valve remove & allow for some water to leak from it
Is your boiler heating your domestic hot water if so i would turn water off to water maker and see if your boiler pressure stays down below 20 psi. If so water maker is bad. The other thing that could cause this problem would be the boiler pump is out.
Check the system pressure and top up if necessary - but after that the best advice is to get the people who fitted it for you to come out and sort it - These Worcester combis usually have a 5 year parts warranty and with a boiler that's just a few weeks old, you oughyt to be able to get the labour for nothing as well. It would be a shame to throw those benefits away by tinkering yourself.