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first you need to remove the cover where the chain goes, then there is a clip to remove the clutch bell(thats the wheel looking thing that the chain is driven by)then there may be a nut that will allow you to remove the clutch pack...sometimes the clutch pack will unscrew of the crankshaft..depending on model..then replace and re-assemble in reverse order
The sprocket should be fixed to the outer clutch drum. With the engine off, and the bar and chain off, hold the sprocket with channel lock pliers and turn the outer clutch drum by hand. If the sprocket does not turn, but the drum does, then the clutch must be replaced. (Left hand threads) To keep the engine from turning while trying to remove the clutch internals, stuff starter cord into the upper cylinder head area so that the piston cannot rise above the top of the exhaust port. If you have a saw service shop near you, you might farm out the clutch replacement. It usually requires a special tool to turn the clutch internals. Good luck!
You need to remove the side cover, then remove the bar and chain. Inspect the sprocket connection to the drive shaft for a broken coupler, spring, or sheared key. Does the shaft turn freely by hand? If so, then the internals of the gearbox have a problem. Good luck!
The 330 I just looked at has an inboard clutch, I am reasonably sure the nut is a left handed thread for the same reason the actual clutch is. A right handed thread would unscrew itself. I post this just because it is informative. R² Drive Link Inboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUbSIHMSSP8
I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) as a piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
If the rope falls through the exhaust port it can break the piston just above the ring. You start the saw the piece comes loose and eats your P&C. The odds of it occurring are doubtless slim. If the odds are 1 in 500 and you turn out to be the 500th do you care how slim they were?
In case you need an IPL for your saw it can be found here: Homelite/Ryobi.com (authorized parts supplier) https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here. Yours is pretty simple just find 330 (I suspect clutch detail is the same for all 13, but defer the choice to you.) HTH Lou IMO you need not torque the nut down. I think it will seat itself with time. If you decide to torque it, remove the rope, turn the crank backward (CW on flywheel side) until the piston is again on the rise and above the exhaust port for the same reason.
It sounds as though you have abraded away the clutch face. I’d try a local saw seller/mechanic, they may be able to adhere a new face to your existing parts. I went here: Homelite/Ryobi.com https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here. The numbers Homelite & Ryobi use don't match the numbers everyone posts. A careful inspection of your saw should find something that matches. Chose “38cc 16" Chain Saw UT-10927” and on the “Clutch – Chain Brake – Drive Case Cover” detail found; item 20, clutch, pn984894001, $15.47; item 21, sprocket and drum assembly, pn984640001, $18.46 Yours is an inboard clutch but it must be removed, the outboard clutch video will help. R² Drive Link Inboard Clutch http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUbSIHMSSP8&feature=PlayList&p=4A4A1DF66590854E&index=0&playnext=1 The C-clips tend to fly when being removed. Please wear eye protection and exercise care. R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
Check at the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed.
A length of starter cord or nylon rope may be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
It is probably a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it). Let us know how it worked for you. GL Lou
most of the time there is a air leak in one of the two crank shaft seals.to get to them you need to pull off the flywheel and the clutch assy.look for wet areas. that will be where the seal is letting out the oil and air.If you keep putting starting fluid in the carburator you will burn the rings,the piston and the cylinder up