Properly installing the amp with a extra battery and a capacitor
I have never had a amp this powerful before and i want to install it myself(im trying to learn the trade for a job)Ive hooked up subs and an amp but never an amp with a back up battery and a capacitor...i also have a zr650.4 with 4 61/2"s,4 2" dome tweets and the crossovers...(they were component kits)i successfully have the 4 channel amp and all the speakers and crossovers installed and thats ran off of my main batterey all with 1 gauge wire but when i get to the spare batterey and capacitor,amp and 12"kicker comp subs i dont know how to go any further.I need instructions to properly install this set up
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upgrade all 12v wires running to your system to 0 gauge to kill you wiring to small problem when dealing with systems bigger is better double check to see if you alternator is putting out enough power for everything just because it say it will doesn't mean it does upgrade your capacitor seems to be falling you because there made to store power when needed and also get your battery check for any defects and add and extra just for your system
On the hk 980-2 those boxes are just for looks. I own one of these amps and im runnin 3x30amp fuses in it and it seems to put out 870-900 watts bridged at 14.5volts all day. I have an extra battery and i put 0-4 gauge reducers in mine. I have 2 memphis pr 12s and they sound really good on it.
Your amp is straining for power, try upgrading your alternator or and a battery in your trunk... or capacitor.And also make sure that the fuse closest to your amp is the total value of the fuses in your anp
positive (1 guage) from main battery to second battery positive terminal. hook all amps positive to second battery and hook 2nd battery ground to frame of car (where amp is now grounded) if you have a 2nd battery a cap is a waste of money. make sure all grounds (battery and amps) are together on same ground point of car, do not ground amps to battery - ground everything to 1 spot on the frame or body of the car ! - yes you can pigtail remote leads.
You must have inline fuses at the point where the wire taps off of the power source. If you're tapping off a wire that has no fuse (like the starter solenoid), you must insert a fuse.
When making the connection to the amp, there will be a spark initially. If you hold it on for a second, pull it off and then touch it again, there should be little to no spark because the capacitors in the amplifier would have charged when you made the initial contact. If there is an intense spark each time you touch it and the amp is not on (no remote voltage applied), the amp may be defective.
You should go with a 4 guage power wire kit. If your amp is going in and out
at high volume than that is your problem. 8 guage will work but, if you want
the proper current which is your power from your battery, going to your amp
than I would recomend the 4 guage amp install kit or just the main power
wire coming from your battery. If you would like contact me and I will send you
to a very good sight with all the info you will ever need for car amplifire installation.