I have 2 extremely high wattage amps that were very expensive.they are made by kicker,one is a 650.4 4 channel anp and the other is a 1200.1 1 channel.i also have a extra battery and a capacitor.Ive hooked up low wattage systems before that didnt need a extra batterey or a capacitor.I have 4 61/2" mids and a set of 2" dome tweets all hooked up to the 4 channel amp using 1 gauge wire and it is straight off of my batterey and it sounds great.I made it to where i had an extra channel so i hooked my subs(wich are 2 kicker solo comp 12"subs) just to get a little deep bass.I guess my question is how do i hook up the rest of the system,as in unhooking the subs from the 4 channel amp and hook it back up right.Where should i mount the spare bettery and will i need anything extra like another capacitor or something?how do i go about wiring the capacitor to the amp...do i hit the amp or capacitor first?is it ok to ground it where my 4 channel amp is grounded?can i pig tail off of the remote to the 4 channel amp and does the capacitor get a remote wire?i payed alot of money for this equipment and dont want to fry it so if you can help me out id appreciate it,and one more thing if there is any certain order i need to do this in please let me know and also tell me howto seperate and run the positive and negative coming off my back up batterey
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Re: high wattage car stereo
Positive (1 guage) from main battery to second battery positive terminal. hook all amps positive to second battery and hook 2nd battery ground to frame of car (where amp is now grounded) if you have a 2nd battery a cap is a waste of money. make sure all grounds (battery and amps) are together on same ground point of car, do not ground amps to battery - ground everything to 1 spot on the frame or body of the car ! - yes you can pigtail remote leads.
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It all depends on the wattage of your subs. you need an amp more powerful than the both subs combined. For example. for 2 500 watt subs, you'll need at least a 1200 watt amp. amps should never be truned up to full power, 80% max as they tend to blow more quickly and overheat when on max. ideally you want an amp over the total combined wattage of your both subs so you dont need your amp on max for the best sound for you subs.
if you bought that equipment today then your answer is yes your amp will power the subs but if i was you and you want more bass I would go with a two channel amp or even a mono block amp that will be 1 ohm stable and if you decide to do that you might want to get subs that are dual 4 ohm voice coils and run them in series that will get you 1 ohm of resistance
any amp will work with any speaker, you just need to make sure it is a mono amp if you are running 1 speaker and a stereo amp wither 2 or 4 channel if you are running 2 or 4 speakers, the ohm rating on the amp should match the speakers also, on the back of the speaker it has the ohm rating, most will be 8 ohm, but you still find some 4 ohm, depending on the speaker if it has a lot of throw (the in and out movement) you may want a higher wattage amp so you get clean sound, it is up to you.... if you are installing lower price amps to you may hear engine wine or noise while car is running so a grounde loop isolator installed on the system will remedy that... also with the amp the directions will tell you the ohm rating of the wire to use, follow that.... and keep the ground short and clean where ever you put it.. try not to go directly off the battery cause you will get a lot of noise... hope this helps..
No, thats what you don't what to do. Even if you have 2 matching amps you don't do that. Every amp puts out different, and for 2 subs, you want to play at the the same time. If your only running 2 10's, I personal would just run the alpine (it's a mono amp made especially for subs) thats plenty for what you have. make sure you bridge them to get the full response. And your other amp i would use for your highs or mids, but run it @ stereo , which is 300 w @ 4 ohms. (Note: 600w @ 2ohms would be bridged and would play in Mono)
Building Competition stereo's is a big hobby of mine.
Yes, with the use of 2 high-pass and 1 low-pass crossovers, that Kicker amp will operate in what they call stereo and mono simultaneously (SAMS). You'd run 4 of the 6X9's in mono. Wire them in series-parallel with a low-pass crossover on the positive leg to the amp. The amp would see a 4ω load. The other two 6X9's would be wired as stereo, one to each channel with a high-pass crossover. Again, the amp sees a 4ω load.
Here's a link to the appropriate wiring diagram. The diagram is on page 5. Just substitute your 4 6X9's wired in series-parallel where they show the "mono" speaker.
i have a 2 channel boss amp running my 6x9's & a candence 2 channel on my bass ..they say for ur mids & high's a 4channel is best , but i like the 2 channel better ... so i think u wil be fine with the amp uhave , just be sure 2 tun it down so it wnt blow ur 6x9's...
first whats the range in terms of WATTS that your 12" sub can handle in 4 OHMS ? second , lets check the AMP , POWER ACOUSTIK 1800 WATTS , Now thats a lot of power to drive a single 12" sub speaker . your amp is 1800 watts , per channel is around 500 watts , if BRIDGE thats around 1600 watts rms for ONE channel , if your sub can handle that kind of wattage fine , but it will not blow the amp , what it does is shuts down , some kind of protection mode , it will come back on after a minute or so. I suggest to use one channel in stereo mode , or purchase another sub to use the other channel. i hope this helps AJ