Question about Whirlpool LXR9445JT Top Load Washer

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Draining I had blanket being washed. I went to switch it to the dryer and found it was sitting in the water, I stoped and started it again and left it again in the hopes that it would drain...thinking that the weight of the wet blanket may have caused it to stop. We ended up having to bail the water out. Checked hose and it wasn't kinked or cloged and the remaining water drained outof the machine once i disconeected the hose. I even put a thin broom stick down the pipe to see if anything was blocking it...don't have a snake so couldn't get thru the curve but didn't seem to be anything obstructing the drainage. Also have pretty much brand new Kenmore washer that we switced the whirlpool out for. Figure this would tell me if there was a blockage in our pipe or if it is actually the machine...Now a whole other prolem has occured. Got everything hooked up properly from what I see but when I start the Kenmore the water won't stop running into the machine. I set it on small load as a test before putting any actual clothes into it. It filled to the top, I had to turn off the water to allow it to run the rest of the cycle for it to drain...actually there is still a little bit of water at the bottom...the water is still off. So it's a two part question...why isn't my whirl pool draining and why won't the water stop filling up the Kenmore?

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Re: draining

Two part question, two part solution (I hope). First the Whirlpool, most of the drain problems I have encountered with the Whirlpool top loaders can be attributed to a few things: 1. Defective Lid Switch - washer will fill normally, but will stop suddenly when it begins to agitate. The tub will remain filled with water and will not drain. Cost: about $30. 2. Defective Motor Coupling - Since you mentioned washing a blanket, heavier loads can put some wear and tear on the motor coupling, and wear them out. The couplings from the manufacturer are usually comprised of all of plastic and have been known to strip. After market couplers have a steel grommet in the center to prevent this. Symptoms: Washer will fill, but will not agitate. You will hear a loud rattling noise during the wash cycle with the drum remaining still. The tub will still drain sometimes, but won't spin. Cost: about $15 3. Clogged Drain Pump - Located inside the machine under the wash tub in the front. The pump is small (white of gray plastic) with two hoses connected to it. The pump does not come apart, so you will have to remove the hoses to inspect inside. If your tub is full of water, however, a wet/dry shop-vac will come in handy to remove the water, FIRST!. Symptoms: Washer will fill and agitate, but will not drain during the rinse or spin cycle. If clogged, severely, the pump shaft connecting to the drive motor will strip and the pump will need to be replaced. Cost: about $40. Now...the Kenmore. Fill problems where the water does not shut off are usually attributed to a bad pressure switch. The pressure switch would be the load level selector on the console. Before you call the switch bad and order a new one, however, inspect the clear plastic hose from the switch all the way to the bottom of the wash tub. This is known as an "air-dome" hose and sometimes will crack or develop holes in them. If the air is allowed to escape from the hose, the air pressure will never be substantial enough to shut the pressure switch off. It may be an easy fix of just replacing a rubber hose. Good luck and I hope this helps you.

Posted on May 06, 2007

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