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Have you tried to put the exposure mode to "manual"? If you leave it in automatic exposure mode, the iso, speed and aperture will always combine themselves to give the correct exposure and therefore will not let you overexpose your video. Hope this will help.
your camera is probably set to SPOT exposure instead of AVERAGE exposure,. Which means, your camera is taking readings from a smaller area within the frame instead of using the whole frame to decide exposure. When in spot exposure you can move a hair and the exposure will change dramatically. does this make sense? put your camera back into average metering.
Do you have it in aperture or shutter priority modes? If so, do you also have exposure compensation set to overexpose? If you have it in manual mode, then you will, of course, have to make the adjustments each time.
If you have it in auto mode, it should be correcting the exposure for you, unless you have manually set the ISO to some very high level. Another potential issue would be that you have selected spot metering and you are metering on a very dark area, hence the camera is overexposing to make up for that.
I'd recommend setting the camera to auto-ISO and auto exposure and see how it works. If that checks out, then you can correct any settings in other modes.
Auto Focus does not determine exposure. Only sharpness. "Wrong" exposure could be due to the metering mode being set in Spot Metering. Set it back to Evaluative Metering which may improve the overall even exposure of your shots. Test your shots in full auto or P mode. M (Manual) mode will require you to check the exposure setting manually (you can see the indicator in the viewfinder when you half-press the trigger)
the camera's light sensor or metering system, for correct flash exposure is no longer working, that's why your shots is either black or white (overexposed or underexposed) the flash firing has loose its control because of the defective sensor, it now only depends on the charge current of the flash capacitor. If you'll wait longer time the charge is maximum picture result will be overexposed(white), and vice versa, less charge, dark result, have the flash assy replaced. Daylight no problem, it doesnt use the flash circuitry, thanks
I have found with this camera that when you set the aperture and shutter speed in manual it will display recommended settings and not the settings you had just set. But when the picture is taken and you display the settings in software that the camera used, it actually uses the settings you set and not the ones displayed on the camera. I think the settings displayed are recommended settings. Very strange! Also the camera changes settings on zooming.
I've found that the *istD underexposes ( as it should metering 18% grey ) light subjects, or with light backgrounds. A white wall using TTL ( AF500ftz ) behind any subject it always turns grey! You need to manually adjust 1 stop over. With dark subjects, overexposing with out blowing out much. If your used to the metering from a PS digi cam the *istD takes a bit of getting used to.
Your camera light meter uses the concept of multi-spot exposure metering, which is sensitive to subtle differences in scene composition. To determine the overall shutter speed for a scene, the meter takes readings from three zones within the frame. With Portrait orientations, the zones remain in the same place (vertical) on the CCD imager. With landscape orientations, however, the zones are more spread out (horizontal) and the dominant (2 dark and 1 light or 2 light and 1 dark) zones determine the shutter speed. This may cause some areas of the picture to be overexposed or underexposed.