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Have you tried to put the exposure mode to "manual"? If you leave it in automatic exposure mode, the iso, speed and aperture will always combine themselves to give the correct exposure and therefore will not let you overexpose your video. Hope this will help.
In short, if the lights to the left are lit then you're overexposing and you need to reduce the exposure. If the lights to the right are lit then you're underexposing and need to increase the exposure.
Full details are in the "Manual Exposure Mode' section of the manual. If you need a manual, you can download a copy from http://butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_n55/nikon_n55.htm
your camera is probably set to SPOT exposure instead of AVERAGE exposure,. Which means, your camera is taking readings from a smaller area within the frame instead of using the whole frame to decide exposure. When in spot exposure you can move a hair and the exposure will change dramatically. does this make sense? put your camera back into average metering.
Contacts should not have anything to do with the metering. That is done in the camera itself and not the lens. If a photo comes out overexposed, which is normal when using P or A mode, as metering isn't perfect, use the exposure compensation (+/- menu or button) to reduce the exposure as much as you feel is necessary. Exposure can be subjective so you should trust yourself more than the camera.
Auto Focus does not determine exposure. Only sharpness. "Wrong" exposure could be due to the metering mode being set in Spot Metering. Set it back to Evaluative Metering which may improve the overall even exposure of your shots. Test your shots in full auto or P mode. M (Manual) mode will require you to check the exposure setting manually (you can see the indicator in the viewfinder when you half-press the trigger)
If the red - lights up, you're underexposed. If the red + lights up, you're overexposed. If the green circle lights up, you're right on. If both the red and green light up, you're within one-third stop of the right exposure.
If you don't see either the green or red lights, then you need batteries. The camera uses two LR44 alkalines or two SR44 silver-oxides. But the only thing that uses the batteries is the exposure meter: everything else on the camera is stil fully functional.
You probably have oils on the aperture blades and they do not close to the F stop you set as quickly as required, thus causing the over exposure. Easy to pinpoint: sent the aperture to full open (F1.8) and use appropriate shutter speeds as determined by the camera (in manual mode), if the picture does not over expose, then the problem is with the oiled contaminated aperture blades. Have it cleaned.
Normally the problem is simply that the pictures are slightly overexposed. Despite all the fancy names manufacturers stick on their metering systems, the camera doesn't know what you're taking a picture of. They basically strive to make the entire scene a medium gray. As a result, some highlights may be blown out, just as some shadows may drop out. Generally, dropped shadows are more acceptable than blown highlights.
If a picture is really important, bracket. Take one shot at the metered exposure, then another a stop under (and perhaps one a stop over, if you're feeling paranoid). It was common for a National Geographic photographer to spend an entire roll on one shot, trying different light angles and exposures. After all, film is far cheaper than air fare and hotel rooms.
One advantage of shooting digital is that you can see the results immediately, and correct for blown out highlights.
I'm going to assume that you're getting a featureless white blob for the moon, and you want to know how to fix it.
Switch to manual exposure mode. The camera's meter is trying to make the entire scene a midrange. Since the scene is dominated by a black sky, it will overexpose in an attempt to make the sky come out gray, resulting in the full moon washing out completely.
Think about what you're photographing. It's a big rock under a midday sun, isn't it? The proper exposure for that is the "Sunny-Sixteen-Rule." That simply means that the proper exposure is f/16 at a shutter speed of 1/ISO. So, for ISO 200, use an exposure of f/16 at 1/200 seconds, or an equivalent (such as f/11 at 1/400 seconds, etc.)
If you're using a digital camera, you can check the exposure and the histogram immediately and adjust if necessary. If you're shooting film, bracket a couple of stops in each direction.
Your camera light meter uses the concept of multi-spot exposure metering, which is sensitive to subtle differences in scene composition. To determine the overall shutter speed for a scene, the meter takes readings from three zones within the frame. With Portrait orientations, the zones remain in the same place (vertical) on the CCD imager. With landscape orientations, however, the zones are more spread out (horizontal) and the dominant (2 dark and 1 light or 2 light and 1 dark) zones determine the shutter speed. This may cause some areas of the picture to be overexposed or underexposed.