Also replaced motor with new motor and replaced heating element and also replaced high limit thermostats bought the kit
SOURCE: the dryer still runs but there is no heat
There are usually two limits in the dryer. They are typically located around the element box. You can look at your wiring diagram that is on your unit and find the other limit. Also, take a volt meter and start tracing from the power cord all the way down the system to find where the signal ends. This will tell you what is causing the issue.
SOURCE: my kenmore 70 series dryer
Are you getting any heat at all? Did you change the thermal cut-off which is mounted near the top of the heater box? This is the only other piece in the heating circuit. If you changed it already you could have problem in the timer or in motor. There is a switch in the motor that controls heat also.
SOURCE: Replacing a heating element on Maytag Electric Dryer
Hank,
if you have all those parts , i would indeed replace them all. it will allow your entire heating circuit to strat fresh
just ensure all your paddle connections are tight
but check your heater for continuity too
Testimonial: "Thanks, I'll replace everything! "
SOURCE: Maytag Performa dryer blowing heating elements
Hi and welcome to FixYa. You should check the dryer vent ducting inside and outside the dryer for restrictions / clogs to include the vent flapper. Poor air flow through the dryer will cause hot spots. If the blower is slipping on the motor shaft this too can cause poor air flow.
When you change the heating element AGAIN... break out the crevice tool and de-lint everything you can access. Also pull out the lint filter and wash it with white vinegar and water then soap and water. Fabric softener sheets material builds up on lint filters. It looks clean but air will not pass through the lint filter.
I think once you get it all ceaned up including all of the ducting to and through the outside wall it will work normally with no problems. I do not think at this time that you have an electrical problem with the outlet supply.
There is one more thing to check and that is the high limit thermostat. It could be STUCK. It will most likely be labeled L180 or L190. That thermostat is suposed to open at either 180 deg or 190 Deg depending on which one is installed. If it does not open then you will keep cooking your elements. We test them with a match and an Ohm Meter. Match under the removed thermostat CLICK. Thermostat opens (no resistance)
Wish ya the best.
Thanks for using FixYa.
Kelly
If anything in the future crops up with this same issue.
SOURCE: I have a kenmore 80 series electric dryer. The
The best thing to do is a continuity check on the AC supply from the main supply through to the heating element and determine where the fault is.
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