I am getting a pin point shock from the center pad at the center where the metal tab is, I can't get the power over

Hi Pjd



Shocking problem!



Suspect that the treadmill is generating static electricity.

It is building up as you run... via the rubber mat.

Like the comb through the hair picking up tissue paper bits.

This is basically a Van De Graaff Generator.



Try attaching a wire from the machine chassis (metal) to a metal tap at your sink.

Do you still get a shock?



Not sure where you are and what your electric supply is.

I'm in Australia and our AC plugs have a third pin which is connected to our meter box which is then connected to an outside GROUND ROD.



Perhaps the AC power you are using has no ground or only a 2 pin connection. I which case I would add a three wire plug to the treadmill and the ground pin would connect to the treadmill's metal chassis by a screw or bolt.

Anti static spray may also help



Cheers



Van de Graaff generator



https://www.target.com.au/p/anti-static-spray/50563715



anti static wrist strap

I am guessing that the metal you refer to is the center pin of the power socket. If this is the case then a replacement is the only solution. Depending on what tablet you have it might be repairable or possibly replaceable but not worth the cost for a very cheap tablet.

1) Unplug from power
2) FOLLOW Anti-Static Precautions

[Anti-Static Precautions:

Your body carries Static electricity. Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit), the delicate hardware components inside a computer.
Relieve your body of Static BEFORE reaching inside your computer.

Computer on a table, computer unplugged from power, computer case open;
TOUCH an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of the open computer case.
This action will relieve your body of Static.

IF you leave your computer in the middle of working on it, be SURE to Touch the metal frame again, upon your return ]

Gateway Support > Gateway GT4010 Desktop PC > Main Support page,

http://support.gateway.com/us/en/product/default.aspx?tab=1&modelId=2809

Click on the Support Documents tab.
(Driver / BIOS / Applications / Patches / Support Documents / etc)

Click on the blue -> 5891 - Support Documents subheading
Click on Product Views.
Click on Rear View

Viewing the Front of your computer the Right Side Panel removes.
There are two Thumbscrews to loosen, shown by the letter C.
(They are supposed to remove all the way. If they do it's OK)

There is a finger-pull formed out of the back of the left Side Panel.
Pull towards the back of the computer. It should then swing out at the top, and can now be removed.

Go back one page, and this time click on - User Guides
Click on -

(This is a PDF file. The computer you are using now has Adobe Reader on it, which uses PDF files.
After you click on the file name it may take up to 30 seconds, before the first page comes up.
Took 10 seconds just now using a medium speed DSL connection)

Go to Page 51.
Now I would like you to go to Page 52 - Removing the front bezel

The Front Bezel is the Front Panel, of your computer.
It has 6 tabs that lock it on the metal frame of the computer case.
There are 3 of these tabs that you access, from the Side Panel opening.
It is only these 3 that need to be accessed, in order to remove the Front Bezel.

Looking at the inside, of the Front Panel, and the edge that meets the metal framework of the computer case;
One tab near the Top.
One tab in the Middle.
One tab towards the Bottom.

These tabs are plastic, and are formed out of the plastic Front Bezel.
Press the Top tab IN. (Not too hard or it may break)

Gently pull the Front Bezel towards the front of the computer, JUST A LITTLE.
Now press in on the Middle tab.
Finally press the Bottom tab in.

(Each tab has a flat hooked end. The tab itself goes through a slot, in the metal framework of the computer case. The tab must be pressed in far enough, so the flat hooked end will clear the slot, and allow the tab to slide through the slot; when the Front Bezel is pulled forward)

Tabs clear of the metal framework of the computer case; right side of Front Bezel swings out a little. (Viewed from the Front; Right side)
This will allow the tabs on the other side to release from the metal framework of the computer case.

NOTE*
It looks as through the Power On switch is attached to the Front Bezel.
This means use CARE, and ease the Front Bezel forward a little, away from the computer case.
Wires are still attached.

IF, you pull on the Front Bezel too hard, or too far; the wires may become unplugged from the motherboard.

IF, this happens, do not worry.
Here is the pinout information for all of those wires,

http://support.gateway.com/s/MOTHERBD/FIC/105553/105553nv.shtml

Click on Product Views.
For example; The Power On switch connects to the Front Panel header, on the motherboard. For this pinout click on -
W - Front Panel connector

9-pin header.
4 pins across the Top row.
5 pins across the Bottom row.

Starting on the Left side, going towards the Right, Top row;
Pins 2, 4, 6, and 8. There is NO Pin 10.

Starting on the Left side, going towards the Right, Bottom row;
Pins 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9.

A) Pins 1 and 3 are for the HarDDrive activity LED.
(Light. It's a Light Emitting Diode)

Pin 1 is for the Positive ( + ) wire.
If the HDD LED is dim when the Harddrive is active, switch the wires around.

B) Pins 5 and 7 are for a Reset switch, IF a Reset switch is used.

C) Pin 9 is N/C. Not Connected. 5 Volt check point reserved for the factory.

D) Pins 2 and 4 are for the Power On LED.
Pin 2 is for the Positive ( + ) wire.
IF the PWR LED is dim when the computer is on, switch the wires around.

E) Pins 6 and 8 are for the Power On switch.

F) There is NO Pin 10.

There is nothing(?) like removing a Front Panel (Front Bezel), and finding out you accidentally unplugged wires from the motherboard; and there is no pinout to connect them back.

Just makes you so HAPPY

!O_O!

Power On switch replacement:

The Power On Button is an assembly. Every pre-built computer manufacturer has their own design, and it can vary from MODEL to MODEL.

The main thing here is, the Power On switch usually doesn't.
This ATX power on switch is used in MANY models of Desktop PC's,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

I know it's hard to see here, and I apologize for that. Best example I have found.
View what looks to be a metal square cap in the front of the view.
There is a small post that sticks out.

This post is what the plastic part of the Power On Button assembly, presses against.

Power On Button assembly may have a plastic post itself, which is returned with a coiled spring, once the Power On Button is pressed.
Or the plastic button itself, presses against that Power On switch post.

You need to soften the plastic of the Power On Button assembly, in order to remove the Power On switch.

The plastic tabs of the Power On Button assembly may break, if this is not observed. Also compounded by the fact, that the plastic of the Power On Button assembly, has been heated several times, and is now brittle. (Plus age)

I use a hair dryer set on low, (Thanks honey. I'll be right back with it, lol!), and slowly wave the nozzle of the hair dryer, back and forth across the Power On Button assembly.

Once the plastic has softened some, ease whatever tabs you need to gently move aside a little, to ease the Power On switch out.
Be aware that the plastic will cool almost instantly, and need to be softened again, before attempting to replace the Power On switch.

Or perhaps june_sells20 this is the best way to go,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gateway-Brushed-Aluminum-GT-Series-5-Bay-uATX-Front-Bezel-8016758R-6378-/271069731471?pt=US_Computer_Case_Accessories_Tool_Kits&hash=item3f1d03da8f

Not advertising for seller, nor website. Just reference.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Yes you are correct. It is because of earthing issue. Laptop has 3 pins out of which 1 is Earthing, 2 is positive and 3 is negative. Out of 3 pins, 2 pins will function properly however for Earthing, it is necessary to have some arrangement at your place.

Please get earthing solution implemented and then plug the laptop power cord into power socket. Else you will face the shock and it may happen that your laptop's internal part may get damaged.

Thanks,
Amar

This does not appear to be a problem with the ZW. The XFMR does not know anything about train location on the track. It appears to be a track connection problem on the center or outside tracks or both. One way to identify a bad connection is to take a parallel wire from the common and hot terminal of the ZW and connect directly to the area of track where the train stops and slows down. If this cures the problem then I recommend checking the tightness of the three track connections. For both FasTrack and Tubular, crimp slightly the pin receiving holes in the end of the track.

Note: For both tubular and Fasrtrack it is recommended that common track power for any one section be input to the track at more than one point. In this way one bad outter or center conductor won't cause the train to slow up or stop.

If FasTrack, you can solder directly to the tabs on the track underside for a permanent connection.

did you plug in the 24 pin main of the power supply in some also take a 4 pin as well on board jim

Most front pads have a wear tab that will contact the rotor and make noise when they need to be done. Sometimes the tab breaks off though. Good rule to follow is if the brake material is worn to the point that it's close to being as thick as the metal backing it's attached to, change them. On shoe type brakes, linings should be changed when they reach 2/32" above the rivet heads or backing. Most times, the fronts will wear at about 2 to 1 to rears, sometimes as much as 3:1. Fronts get about 70% more use.

Remove all rust from pad and caliper sliding surfaces,eg metal to metal,not the pins,they get synthetic brake lube. Apply anti-seize to all sliding surfaces. Make sure you can screw in the rear caliper piston,if applicable, and manually ratchet up the parking brake,after caliper and pads are on. Bleed/Flush all 4 Wheels. Make sure you can slide the pads back and forth,before lubing end tabs. You may need to file a little off the ends or just remove the paint. Make sure parking brake cables are really releasing.

1. To avoid overflowing of the master cylinder when the caliper pistons are pressed into the caliper cylinder bores, siphon or dip some brake fluid out of the larger reservoir.
2. Jack up the front of the truck, support it on jackstands, and remove the wheels.
3. Place an 8 in. (203mm) C-clamp on the caliper and tighten the clamp to bottom the caliper piston in the cylinder bore. Bear the clamp on the outer pad. NEVER PRESS DIRECTLY ON THE PISTON! Remove the C-clamp.
4. Clean the excess dirt from around the caliper pin tabs.
5. Drive the upper caliper pin inward until the tabs on the pin touch the spindle.
6. Insert a small prybar into the slot provided behind the pin tabs on the inboard side of the pin.
7. Using needlenose pliers, compress the outboard end of the pin while, at the same time, prying with the prybar until the tabs slip into the groove in the spindle.
8. Place the end of a 7⁄16 in. (11mm) punch against the end of the caliper pin and drive the pin out of the caliper slide groove.
9. Repeat this procedure for the lower pin.
10. Lift the caliper off of the rotor.
11. Remove the brake pads and anti-rattle spring. NOTE: Do not allow the caliper to hand by the brake hose. To install:
    
12. Thoroughly clean the areas of the caliper and spindle assembly which contact each other during the sliding action of the caliper.
13. Place a new anti-rattle clip on the lower end of the inboard shoe. Make sure that the tabs on the clip are positioned correctly and the loop-type spring is away from the rotor.
14. Place the lower end of the inner brake pad in the spindle assembly pad abutment, against the anti-rattle clip, and slide the upper end of the pad into position. Be sure that the clip is still in position.
15. Check and make sure that the caliper piston is fully bottomed in the cylinder bore. Use a large C-clamp, bearing on a piece of wood, to bottom the piston, if necessary.
16. Position the outer brake pad on the caliper, and press the pad tabs into place with your fingers. If the pad cannot be pressed into place by hand, use a C-clamp. Be careful not to damage the lining with the clamp. Bend the tabs to prevent rattling.
17. Position the caliper on the spindle assembly. Lightly lubricate the caliper sliding grooves with caliper pin grease.
18. Position the a new upper pin with the retention tabs next to the spindle groove. NOTE: Don't use the bolt and nut with the new pin.
    
19. Carefully drive the pin, at the outboard end, inward until the tabs contact the spindle face.
20. Repeat the procedure for the lower pin. WARNING
    Don't drive the pins in too far, or it will be necessary to drive them back out until the tabs snap into place. The tabs on each end of the pin MUST be free to catch on the spindle sides!
    
21. Install the wheels.