Question about Hotpoint HSS25IFMCC / HSS25IFMWW Side by Side Refrigerator

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WHAT CAUSED MY CONDENSER FAN TO STOP RUNNING

The condenser fan on my KitchenAid refrig stopped working.. I ran an Ohms test and determined the motor for the fan was bad.. Should I also check the circuit board before installing the new fan motor?? I don't want to pay $100 for a fan motor to find that the circuit board caused the fan motor problem... How would I check the circuit board and where is it located?? Thanks.. Jack

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  • Richard Roth
    Richard Roth Oct 18, 2012

    Glad I could help you!

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  • Hotpoint Master
  • 9,472 Answers

If the refrigerator is running without any other problems, then just replace the fan motor. Here is the fan and it is only $36.80. No where near $100.00!

Posted on Oct 16, 2012

  • Jack Fullen Oct 18, 2012

    Replaced the fan motor and it seems to be working fine now.. Thanks Richard...

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4 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jgwhomeequip
  • 1902 Answers

SOURCE: not cooling

Replace the control board, first check the relay and make sure you are getting power at the relay first then replace the control board

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

hvac1
  • 338 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator stopped running, fan works in freezer, lights work..

The condenser is on the back of the refrig at the bottom you may have to take off a face plate to get to it you will see the compressor cond fan and a coil of tubing you can clean this by takin a hair brush and cleaning it I use the vaccum to get all the loose dirt. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jul 01, 2010

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Hotpoint HSS25GFPEWW side by side.....

dead if the compressor is running and theres no cooling or frost on the evaporator you have leaked out all your freon only way to fix is call a pro about 600$ to fix

Posted on Aug 15, 2012

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1 Answer

Sff4ds11. condenser fan not working?


Sound like a clicking solenoid/relay. The relay is bad. Basically it's not holding to supply constant current to the fan motor. Without being plugged in !!! (unplug the fridge) spin the fan with your fingers, if the fan spins freely then there shouldn't be an overload. Relays and solenoids are more apt to fail than a motor. Also check under the refrig, many have a timer and temperature sensor which can be adjusted.

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My Kitchenaid KS RP 25 f condenser motor fan will not turn the one inside back wall of freezer compartment


thats called an evaporator fan. and only time it should shut off is when in the defrost mode? u can check it with a meter for ohms

Mar 24, 2015 | KitchenAid Refrigerators

1 Answer

How can I stop the ice build up in my bottom mount fridge?


Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!












Fridge door walls are very hot:

the reason the outer side of the door seal area is getting hot is the compressor is over heating, probably the condenser fan motor to your compressor is bad.
It should be a little warm but not hot. they don't use heaters anymore ( some older models still use heaters) around the doors, instead they use the condenser coils to remove condensation and moister, you might want to check your condenser coils on the bottom or back of fridge to see if they need cleaning
If the condenser coils/condenser fan are all plugged up they need cleaning and/or the condenser may fail or has failed..

The ones that use an electric heater will have an "energy saver" switch that will turn it off.








Sep 07, 2014 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

Why evaporator fan does not run


Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required














Fridge door walls are very hot:

the reason the outer side of the door seal area is getting hot is the compressor is over heating, probably the condenser fan motor to your compressor is bad.
It should be a little warm but not hot. they don't use heaters anymore ( some older models still use heaters) around the doors, instead they use the condenser coils to remove condensation and moister, you might want to check your condenser coils on the bottom or back of fridge to see if they need cleaning
If the condenser coils/condenser fan are all plugged up they need cleaning and/or the condenser may fail or has failed..

The ones that use an electric heater will have an "energy saver" switch that will turn it off.











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1 Answer

Samsung rs2630Ww. internal refrig fan blower not working and water dispenser not working.



This problem could be caused by the motherboard having defective relays, bad fan motor=> DA31-00103A Fan Motor Sounds like someone will need to examine the fan motor and test the voltage to the fans inside and outside the refrigerator. You will need to have this done to eliminate what the cause is. Both condensor and evaporator fan motors are the same part=> DA31-00103A Fan Motor Let me know and I will explain how to remove, test or replace the freezer/evaporator fan motor, wiring or motherboart. Thanks Sea Breeze


DA31-00103A Fan Motor
9_16_2012_3_30_31_pm.jpgDA31-00103A

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2 Answers

My 03 galant has an electrical issue. My heater and air conditioner work just fine but the fans stopped working. What could be my problem


if the fan still works on highest setting only the fan speed resistor block is faulty.
if the fan doesnt work on highest setting check for power at fan while on highest setting with globe test light, as well as checking fuse for fan. 2 wires one power other is earth. if power is there the fan motor needs replacing so long as the earth wire is also ok check with voltmeter on Ohms for continuity should be a couple of Ohms any higher is no good.

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3 Answers

Kenmore model 3639550610. Ice maker motor and freezer fan motor wont stop. Need to find wiring diagram.


Hello,
If fridge repair because it is noisy, turning off and on, or running all the time, it could be a sign the condenser fan motor is going bad. Thankfully, this type of repair is not as complicated as some may think. You can check the condenser fan motor yourself and replace it if necessary.

Tools and Materials Needed:

* Multitester
* Screwdriver
* Needlenose pliers

Step 1 - Disconnect the Power

Turn off the power to the refrigerator to prevent electric shock.

Step 2 - Remove the Condenser Fan Motor

The condenser fan motor is located on the bottom of the fridge, most likely toward the back. Heat from inside the fridge is released into the air here. A panel will probably need to be removed to access the motor. Depending on the screw, a screwdriver or nut driver will be required to remove the panel. Find the condenser fan and motor. You can quickly check the fan's operation by seeing if anything is obstructing its rotation. Manually move the fan blades to see if they spin freely. If they do not, you may need to replace the fan. Continue removing the condenser fan motor by taking out the screws that affix it to the mounting bracket.

Step 3 - Test the Condenser Motor

Your condenser fan motor will most likely have 3 wires attached. Some models have just 2. Note which wires are connected from the fan to the motor. Use needle-nose pliers to remove the wire connectors from the motor. Be careful not to damage the wires. After the connectors are removed, use the multitester to check the resistance or passage of electrical current. Set your multitester to ohms.

If the condenser motor has 3 terminals, only the outside terminals need to be checked. The inside one is a ground terminal. Check the terminals by using the multitester probes, touching one probe to one terminal and the other probe to the other terminal. The reading should fall between 0 and infinity. If you reading falls on either 0 or infinity, then the condenser motor is bad and will need to be replaced.

Step 4 - Replacing the Condenser Motor

Condenser fan motors can be ordered from the refrigerator's manufacturer. Once you receive the new motor, check it with your multimeter the same way as the old motor. This will make sure the new motor is in working condition. Attach the wire connectors to the new motor in the identical locations as the old one. You can refer to the new motor's wiring diagram (most likely included with it) if assistance is needed. Now install the new motor under the fridge. Attach it to the mounting bracket using the same screws as before.

Step 5 - Testing the New Motor and Keeping it Efficient

With the new motor connected and attached, turn the power back on. The unit should operate correctly. If it does not come on, check the wiring. Dust and dirt can plug a condenser and affect the fan's ability to discharge heat. Cleaning them several times a year will help the fridge run efficiently.
Hope this help in solving.take care....

Sep 18, 2010 | Frigidaire FRS3R5EMB Side by Side...

1 Answer

Kenmore fridge not getting cold


first thing to heck would be the condenser fan motor which is located int the compressor compartment pull the refrig away form the wall remove cardboard cover and inspect the fan motor that you will see. check for obstruction or if the fan motor is seized. if this motor fails it will cause the compressor to run extremely hot then shut off on internal motor protector. if you determine the motor is bad you can place a house fan behind unit blowing on compressor area to keep unit working until you get it repaired.
Thanks Peyton

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1 Answer

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The compressor relay is located on the compressor under a cover. Before you go to the compressor I would check for other problems that you can see and hear. If the compressor is running there is nothing wrong with its relay.
1. Check the condenser and make sure it is clear and free of dust.
2. If the compressor is cool or cold check for a bad temperature control.
3. Check the freezer compartment for frost on back wall.

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