Question about Washing Machines
The reason your door is opening again is because there is a limit switch that is not making contact at the appropriate time to tell the drive to stop closing the door. The chain drive motor is controlled by a circuit that is expecting to see a signal telling it that the door is closed. If it doesn't see this signal to stop at the appropriate time, it continues to drive the door down unless it sees a certain amount of back pressure, which then tells it to return the door to the up/open position. This is a built in safety feature for most garage door drives and is industry standard now due to children getting caught under them and being killed. You can try this yourself. Stick a 4 foot 2x4 vertically under the middle bottom of the door as it's coming down, after a second or two the door will reverse direction.
With the chain falling off the drive and loosening it to replace it, you may have inadvertantly positioned the actuator of the switch, which is usually attached to the chain, out of position by a couple of links. There is a momentary contact switch mounted close to the door on the support shaft of the drive mechanism. This support shaft is the one holding the motor drive on one end, along with the chain and is anchored to the header over the garage door. This momentary switch may have a short metalic or plastic arm hanging down that is moved by the actuator on the chain and needs to be reset to a position where the switch contact will be closed when the door is in it's closed position. There are other options also depending on how new/old your door drive is. Some of the newer models use a through beam sensor or photo eye as a stop switch.
Please let me know if this helps.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting
pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel
inner drum up and down.
drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it
should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to
the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even
the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.
bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:
clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum
rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)
have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly
even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.
may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin
it by hand with the door open.
from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of
the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the
failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.
is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine
and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in
bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.
be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are)
will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't
done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in
under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've
ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local
repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a
refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back
in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to
question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.
Feel free to drop a comment back on this thread if I can provide more help.
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