1 side of 220 v line drops out - no main breaker reset
Half the breakers in my Siemans 100A 24 circuit box show zero voltage - no main entrance breaker pop off. Reset main and all work for a while. I replaced the main and everything worked for several months - now old problem is back. I purchased the panel and main breaker from Home Depot for under 60 bucks. The main breaker part number replacement from Siemans is over 170 bucks - something isn't right here. Are we looking at QC rejects or cheap look alikes? Any thoughts about what is wrong?
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert that has over 500 points.
Re: 1 side of 220 v line drops out - no main breaker...
Sounds to me as if you are losing one side of the line inside the meter enclosure , possibly due to lose connection or corrosion on terminals in base i think i would remove meter and have a look see if you are not comfortable to do this have an electrician to do ck
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
TAKE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN WORKING ON LIVE WIRES!
THIS WORK SHOULD BE PERFORMED BY TRAINED ELECTRICIAN.
REMOVE BREAKER FROM BACK OF PANEL & INSPECT FOR LOOSE AND WORN CONNECTIONS THAT CAUSE BURNS AND MELTED METAL CONNECTORS.
The breaker could be the problem. I take it that you have a meter, you can pull off the panel cover and check the line side of the main breaker ( the side from the power company) be VERY carefull as you cannot turn of the power to this side of the breaker!!! Form one wire to the other on the breaker you should have roughly 220 volts. From one on the breaker to the ground/nuetral bar you should have roughly 110 volts. I f you do not have 220 across the two wires on the breaker its the power company you need to call if the 110 voltage is not right you may have a loose ground/nuetral... Just be VERY CAREFULL!!!! Hope this helps you
I'm assuming since it's a Homeline panel you're using a HOM2100 breaker. If it stripping then you must have a short circuit in your 100A circuit, or the breaker is defective. Disconnect your load from the breaker, and turn main on. Be sure you have the correct load conductors connected to the breakers. Typically red and black on the breaker, white on neutral bar. Bare to ground bar
First the part number QOC20U100F is a flush mount panel cover. The panel you have is most likely a :QO116M100. No you cannot replace the breaker as the bus in the panel is only rated for 100A. In addition I believe this is a 20CKT panel. If you're gonig to a 200A service you'd probably want more spaces than that. Home Depot and Lowes both carry 200A panels with starter set of breakers at reasonable price. The QO panels are a bit better than the Homeline
Here is a link to manual for their panels. : http://static.schneider-electric.us/assets/DIGEST/load-centers.pdf
You an upside down "Y" at the top of your breaker panel 220 - 240 volts come in the Y and break in half 120 volts to each leg of the "Y" A 220 Volt breaker straddles both legs a 110 volt breaker only contacts one leg I suspect that you have lost one leg Possibly at the main breaker ( top most)( main disconnect) in your panel If you have a tester with the capacity to test 240 you can test the two top lugs where the main wire comes in Test them together That is one probe of your tester on each wire you should show 240+/- volts Then you can move down through the panel 120 +/- on each leg Hope this helps if you need more just let me know Scott
How long does the breaker hold after resetting? You probably have an 'intermittent ground fault' . If the breaker just trips randomly. One way to locate it would be a megger test on all three phases going out to the loads. Any phase that shows a possible ground could help narrow it down. Sometimes, if possible, you can turn certain breakers off and see if your problem goes away.A meter in record mode could be the best solution. Fluke meters have this option and you could monitor the phase voltage and during a 'ground fault' the voltage will drop some and you'll lock in the dip on the meter.
Problem solved. I disconnected both ends of the feeder line to the barn and tested continuity by alternately hooking two wires together at a time and using an ohm meter on the other ends. The result of the testing was that the majority of the wires in the run were making contact with each other to varying degrees. We have seen a lot of rain this spring, so I assumed there was a break in the line that had gotten wet down in the ground. We had some work done last fall where they may have distrubed the line, so I dug around that area first and luckily found a splice that had been very poorly sealed against the elements. Got it dried out and everything returned to normal. I used layers of liquid electrical tape and heavy water proof tape to insulate and seal the repaired line prior to putting it back into its wet environment and back filling.
It sound like all of those go through your bathroom GFCI. I would recommend moving your outdoor circuit breaker indoors if possible or enclosing it to make it water-proof. You may also do some rewiring from your main breaker box ( if you are handy) to eliminate the outdoor box completely considering you have 100 amp / 200 amp breaker box inside your house. If you still have an old FUSE BOX with 60 amp service, I would recommend replacing it with a 100 amp or 200 amp breaker box depending on the size of your house. I would separate the laundry room by itself with 12/2 gauge wire with ground on a 20 amp breaker. You can then take your bathroom (using 12/2 gauge wire with ground keeping your gfci ) and run it to another breaker in the house with a 20 amp breaker or add a new one if there is room in your main box. Now all you have left is the porch light. You can run that separate from everything to your main breaker box using 14/2 gauge with ground to a breaker in your main box by adding a new 15 amp breaker or adding it to another 15 amp breaker that does not have a very high load such as a bedroom. In general Kitchens, Bathrooms, Laundry rooms should be on there own separate 20 amp breakers. Most every other room can be 14/2 with ground on a 15 amp breaker... hope this helps....Joe