Question about Garland H283 Gas Kitchen Range

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Ovens won't work.. pilot safeties keep dying..

Has Baso H15HR-2 Pilot Controls.. one on each oven.. suspect heat from oven is cooking the control.. is there supposed to be a baffle separating the control from the oven cavity ? These ovens have none.. apparently infrared from the flame and parts are heating these controls. I was considering fabricating a baffle out of stainless, with kaowool on the oven cavity side.. have to worry about air flow to the burner.. any ideas.. This is a Garland 6 burner / flat top grill w/ broiler / double oven stove.. commercial grade.. natural gas..

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  • tim291 Jan 09, 2009

    After disassembling both pilot valves, found that the thermocouples were ok, the internal parts were ok.. when the thermocouple was heated, the latching mechanism would hold.. when the valves were reassembled, they would not latch open. The location of the valve is directly in the path of heat and infrared from the burner compartment. The burner is about 5 " from the valve, with no physical barrier to protect it.. I will go with my plan of a baffle with insulation.. will do an update when done and in use.

  • gjackowski Feb 06, 2009

    I have the same Kitchen Range but both ovens will not ignite even though the pilots are on.




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Hi, just wanted to ask, are you sure the safety valves are bad? seems strange that 2 would go bad like that. I have seen thermocouples ( $7 to $12 ) improperly installed,routed, not an OEM part,dirty pilots, affect them alot more often than a bad safety ($150 to $250). There is no baffle plate behind the safety, however, if mounted properly, it should be well out of any heat range that would be causing any problems. Are you sure it isn't "front venting" ? meaning the exhaust, or part of it, has to escape out of the front of the unit, causing it to overheat? this can be caused by a few things, something blocking,covering,in the flue. Your gas pressure too high, or no regulator at all, sooting, clogged orfice causing gas to burn in the burner, alignment of orfice to burner, etc.. Hope all that helps, let us know :)

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

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1 Answer

Is there an adjustment to have pilot light stay on after given length if time. Our rev oven pilot takes longer then one minute. About 1 1/2 min


No it is a safety feature that the pilot has to heat up the thermocouple to assure the main gas valve that the pilot is alight and hot.

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replace the thermocouple first. it can be purchased at you local hardware store.
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Look up product manual on internet.
Look at label located inside oven door, and add .pdf to search parameter to help find manual.
Then read section about lighting appliance.

If power is out, then pilot will not have any gas >> if gas control is electronic.
Many electronic gas controls require electric power to operate circuit board.

In old days, you removed the bottom tray on oven to access burner and pilot orifice. Then you pushed down switch to release gas through pilot tube, and put lit match into the gas stream to light pilot. Hold down switch until pilot flame heated tip of thermocouple which caused magnetic switch to stay open inside gas control. Release switch and pilot stayed lit.

Safety concerns and vast advances in manufacturing cheapness have changed gas appliances so they are more inconvenient for do-it-yourselfers during ordinary power outage.
Cook hamburger over metal bucket with newspaper, and grease on newspaper burns enough to cook hamburger.
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Hotpoint gas stove. burners work, oven and broiler do not.


Probably the safety valve. This unit broils and bakes off the same gas burner. A spark ignitor lights the pilot and this save gas because no standing pilot is needed. It takes a few minutes for the thermocouple bimetal combo to release the gas. When the temp gets to the desired rate then the bulb on the oven control closes off the flow of gas. To recap: The flow of gas comes from a regulator along a rail which supplys the gas to the top burners and the oven control. older models had pilot light tubing going down to the oven and to the top burners. This newer style uses a spark module to light off the top burners and the oven. So when yall turn the the oven on the spark ignitor lights the pilot first and then after the mercury bulf thermocouple heats up the bimetal inside the valve opens allowing gas to flow out to the pilot and ignite the gas burner. the temp rises and the mercury bulb oven control expands closing off the flow but not the gas safety valve. I would suspect the safety valve on this one.

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1 Answer

Pilot light is lit both on oven and stove top... previous user says to turn on gas and lite "sensor" or "2nd pilot" it stays lit as long as oven knob is on but oven burner does not light. "sensor" goes out...


On standing pilot ovens the maker uses a safety device to kill the gas in case the pilot blows out. As long as the pilot is lit the gas safety magnet hold the gas flap open inside the safety valve.To save energy the pilot has 2 flames. The standby pilot keeps the cooper/nickel probe/sensor warm so the oven will light faster, the 2nd pilot is much larger, only appears when the oven control is turned on and this is what opens that valve. So when you turn the oven knob on the gas leaves the control and goes downtown to burner land. If that pilot is lit and that slow opening flap inside that valve is open, then the gas will enter the burner tube and ignite when it hits the pilot. Pretty slick ain't it? So what can go wrong? With age the flap inside the safety valve will wear out, get weak, work a little, then take forever to light and eventually just goes bye bye. When you get ready to replace the valve it ain't gonna be adjusted exactamundo, you gotta tweak it. To do so after bubble testing for leaks and lighting the pilot you turn it on and observe the flames. It needs to be not more than half way up the flame spreader. If it is to small of a flame it will take forever to bake even a pie shell, if it is too much their could be burned bottom and in some cases fire hazards. OOPs.

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1 Answer

Kenmore gas oven model no. 273 3248296 pilot free ignition wont fire up


Hi

If it won’t fire then it is possible that the oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.
The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's an internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.
If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.
The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.

Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Sep 10, 2009 | Kenmore Ovens

1 Answer

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1 Answer

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http://www.southbendnc.com/downloads/manuals/500SeriesManual_1188716.pdf
try this web site for operations manual.
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