Just installed the oven, and oven light is hard on when power is connected.
When I set a function & temp, the cooling fan at the back of the unit comes on, but no heat or circulating fan in the oven.
saw the post elsewhere about the high temp switch, but this is a different model and can't see it where it's described in teh post...
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The Fan has ,in most cases, two functions - to maintain the oven temp and to clear any condensate or smoke coming from items being cooked. If your oven is over heating it could be the thermostat sensor faulty and giving a faulty reading to the fan. If you set you oven at 350F then sensors control the heat by kicking the heating elements off and in some models and makes the fan aids cool down. Make sure it is at a temperature that would trigger the fan to cool it down. It mostly relies on the regulation of the heating elements to control the temp. Only if it were to get hotter than the elements kicking off can control should the fan kick on. Not being at the site and actually seeing the stove it is hard to determine but if the fan is working every where else it should work when the oven is heating. Again check and see if there is a seperate sensor that monitors the temp of the over and triggers the fan. Not much help but that's where I would look first. Hope this was of some help.
Col. Dana Gillespie
I see that you're having issues with your Frigidaire oven, and the heating element being red hot the entire time you were cooking no matter how much you turned the temperature down.
I suggest giving your appliance a hard reset. You will do this by either unplugging it or cutting the power off at the circuit breaker for at least 2-3 minutes. When power is restored to your oven, you will need to set the clock by entering in the time and pressing start. Preheat the oven, to whatever desired temperature, and if it is still running hotter than it should be, I suggest you contact your local authorized technician. I hope this is helpful.
How many active terminals are there at the main terminal block in the new oven. Is this a single or 2 phase supply. Have you connected the active supply to all active terminals. If only half of the oven is working it sounds like it could be a problem at the terminal block. If so, you need to put a loop or bridge wire to the 2nd active terminal. If all this was done correctly when connected the only other thing it could be is the electronic clock needs to be set to manual mode for the oven to work correctly.
Most of these ovens have two fans. A fan forced fan in the oven and a cavity extractor fan inside the cavity of the unit between the outer skin and the oven wall. The cavity fan blows hot cavity air out the front of the unit so it remains cool. If the orange indicator light is coming on this would normally be the oven element thermostat. Leave it on and see if it gets hot. If the light goes off when you select the function switch it means you are turning it off the oven function. Your interior oven light may be blown. Hope this helps.
Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly. Without a model number we are pretty much shooting from the hip here. Having said that it takes all of the following to make the oven burner light:
1. Gas pressure to the gas valve and good solenoids (2 ea) 2. Power to Oven control and selector knob set above min temp 3. Over Temp sensor closed 4. Temp control "thermocouple or thermistor" functional 5. A functioning ignitor
So if you have power to the unit... and we assume the oven control is working.. suspects are:
a. Open ignitor b. Open flame sensor c. Open over temp sensor d. Thermocouple or thermistor (depending on model) e. Open coil on gas valve
Determining which of the above has failed is performed with an Ohm Meter.
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Hi, If your electric oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating element in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself... Check out this tip that I wrote about the Oven not heating problem..
Though the timer module looked as if it was working the embedded relay was faulty. Note: This timer module is common with Hotpoit, Ariston and a handful of other manufacturers. They all require the relay to 'work correctly' as it switches the Neutral line which controlls all the functions of the Oven. As the delayed timer function was not requierd I moved the 'Switched' Neutral to a permenant connection on the 'Selector Switch' and Hey Presto its sorted. The hunt for a wiring diagram also proved impossible, though having traced the internal wiring carefully it appears that the overall wiring of the Oven, and I suspect others, is very simple to understand. Good luck to anyone else.
WHAT WAS HAPPENING AT 1ST YOUR HI-LIMIT TERMAL SAFETY OR OVEN TEMP SENSOR FELT THAT THE OVEN WAS GET TOO HOT AND SEIZING OPERATION UNTIL SAFE TEMP WERE OBTAINED THIS IS GENERALLY A FAULTY OVEN TEMP SENSOR. I WOULD ADVISE YOU TO CONTACT A CERTIFIED TECH TO LOOK AT IT AND P.S. DON'T MENTION THAT YOU TOOK THE MACHINE APART MOST SERVICE COMPANIES WILL NOT SERVICE THE MACHINE IF IT BEEN TAMPER WITH BY THE CUSTOMER DUE TO INSURANCE AND LIABILITIES
If its brand new, most possibly the electrician did not bridge the mains connection.
It sounds like an installation fault.
There is usually a jumper between 1-2-3 on the L connection on the mains, and a jumper between 4-5 on the N connection.