Question about Whirlpool Calypso GVW9959K Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Water runs back into tub when lid is opened

After the washer is done, and you open the lid, a large amount of water falls back into the tub getting the clothes wet again.

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  • skillion Jan 02, 2009

    I'm having the same issue - when the washing cycle is complete and the lid is opened, about 1 cup of water dumps back into the tub.



    What parts are needed to fix?

  • nikonsal Jan 03, 2009

    My wife has just reported that this has been happening to her for the last few weeks also. When I look at the gasket that goes around the lid it does not look like it is no longer seating correctly.

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  • 311 Answers

Not sure what you by opening lid and a large amount off water falls in.i think you mean you open the lid and see water there.If thats so two things one your pump is blocked,youll need to confirm by watching whats happing.Other is the water valve is not sealing so water is dripping in all the time.you would see this when standing there be patient

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

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Kenmore 26842 Is leaking slightly. Small amount of water runs out from bottom of washer. What are the likely causes, how do I check, and what do I look for?


remove the two phillips screws holding down the top console,one on each side,if there is plastic covers on the end of the console remove the caps and then remove the screws.when you have the screws out flip up the console and with a screw driver pop the two clips and disconnect the lid switch harness closest to the right side clip,open the lid,grab the frame,tilt it forwards and pull back to remove the frame.now you can run it and see where the water is leaking from,if the washer doesn't run get a piece of wire,cut off the insulation off of the two ends and cut the wire around three inches,get the harness where the lid switch was plugged into,stick the jumper wire into the outside holes of the harness and the washer will run,the lid switch is just a safety,the manufacturer doesn't want the washer to run with the lid open so just jump out the lid switch,the middle hole is green and is the ground,just stick the jumper wire into the other two holes and the washer will run,check the pump and check to see if the tub seals are leaking,if the seals are leaking you'll see black dots one third of the way up from the bottom on all sides of the frame and the water will leak from the middle of the tub where the tranny. goes up into the tub,next time send the full model number,it will start with 110. or similar,also check all the hoses.let me know what you find.

Jun 04, 2011 | Kenmore 26862 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Spin cycle is not getting clothes completely dry, can still hand ring water from clothing


When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these: Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician. Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess. Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

Aug 01, 2010 | Maytag Washing Machines

1 Answer

Clothes come out very wet


Hello there:
Please follow the guide that i have provided below
The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these: Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely. Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician. Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess. Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

May 25, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Clothes are to wet after spin cycle


The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these: Motor coupler Spin cycle Siphoning Water-inlet valve Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely. Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician. Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess. Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

Jan 24, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Kenmore 90 Series, year 2000 Came back to put clothes in dryer and found that the clothes were still wet, not spun wet, but wet where I could wring water out of them. I hear the motor running, and the...


The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these: Motor coupler Spin cycle Siphoning Water-inlet valve Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely. Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician. Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess. Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

Jan 21, 2010 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

2 Answers

GE Front load washer WBVHB240EWW. Approx 5 years old. Is not spinning water out of clothes. At end of most cycles clothes are sopping wet. Only speed wash and drain/spin seem to work correctly. Gets stuck...


The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these: Motor coupler Spin cycle Siphoning Water-inlet valve Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely. Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician. Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess. Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

Jan 17, 2010 | GE Profile WPRE6100G Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Overfilling maytag centennial - brand new?


Sounds like a hose off pressure switch or faulty switch/ however make sure drain connected ok 1st....

Oct 02, 2009 | Maytag Centennial 3.2 cu. ft. SuperSize...

1 Answer

I have a whirlpool clothes washer model no LSQ9244EQ, S/N 2593319. IT LEAKS HOW DO YOU TAKE THE BACK OFF OR THE CABINET OFF SO ONE CAN SEE THE SOURCE OF THE LEAK?


The back does not come off on these model washers. You will need to remove the washer exterior cabinet in order to sufficiently locate the source of your leak. The following steps explain how:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components. NOTE: Its a good idea to run a small amount of water in the tub PRIOR to removing the casing in order to get a better idea of where the leak may be coming from. The washer will not run without the lid switch plugged in, so fill about 1/4 full and shut the washer off before disassembling everything.

I know you replaced the drain pump, but did you verify if the hoses were good? Check both the hoses on the pump to ensure they do not have any cracks that could be causing the leak.

The water inlet and dispenser hoses are located along the back. Check for cracks and loose clamps.

To get the cabinet back on the washer, follow these steps:

1, With the lid of the washer open, grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.

Some other things to consider:


1. Check your fill hoses to ensure they are tight and not leaking. What can often appear as a washer problem, may be a loose hose.

2. With the washer case removed, check the are UNDER the wash tub. If the leak is coming from the center above the transmission, the tub seal may be leaking.

3. Inspect the wash tub for any cracks. If the tub is cracked and its not serious, you may be able to get by with some marine epoxy to reseal it. If the crack is significant, a new tub will be required.

4. Check the air dome on the lower right hand side of the wash tub. This is a small plastic air hose that runs from the wash tub all the way to the pressure switch. If this hose comes loose, the washer will start to leak as it fills. Simply reattach if it comes loose.

NOTE: It is important to remove the washer case in matters like this so that you can get a full view of everything to determine the source of the leak. Read through everything thoroughly before beginning any repairs. I hope this information is helpful.

Sep 11, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

I have an older model kenmore that has recently developed a problem with the water control. When setting the program to wash, the washer fills up but the water does not seem to shut off...it leaks in...


The water level is controlled by the pressure switch. The switch is located inside the operator console behind the load level/size selector knob. You either have a pressure switch that is malfunctioning, or something more simple. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r762094-washer_overflows

I would first run a small amount of water in the wash tub (about 1/4 full), shut the washer off and unplug. Open the console and see if the small air hose is still attached to the pressure switch. If not, reconnect and your problem should be solved. If the air hose IS attached carefully disconnect it and blow through it. You should get air bubbles in the wash tub if the hose is not clogged or leaking somewhere. If the hose is damage in anyway, replace it.

Double check your electrical connections and make sure the contacts are clean. Sometimes the contacts corrode with age and will not function properly.

If all these preliminary mesures do not work, replace your pressure switch.

If you need to access the interior of the washer, follow these steps:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

Check the lower right hand side of the wash tub. There should be a small plastic air hose attached to what is called the "airdome". If this air hose comes off, the tub will leak as it starts to fill. The other end of this hose connects to the pressure switch. Do a visual check to see if anything may be clogging it. You can remove the hose if it is clogged and blow air through it to remove most obstructions.

To reinstall the washer casing, follow these steps to ensure you get the case correctly placed and secure on the frame:

1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.


Let me know if you need any further assistance. I hope this helps you.

Sep 05, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water leaking from machine


You will need to remove the washer exterior cabinet in order to sufficiently locate the source of your leak. The following steps explain how:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components. NOTE: Its a good idea to run a small amount of water in the tub PRIOR to removing the casing in order to get a better idea of where the leak may be coming from. The washer will not run without the lid switch plugged in, so fill about 1/4 full and shut the washer off before disassembling everything.

I know you replaced the drain pump, but did you verify if the hoses were good? Check both the hoses on the pump to ensure they do not have any cracks that could be causing the leak.

The water inlet and dispenser hoses are located along the back. Check for cracks and loose clamps.

To get the cabinet back on the washer, follow these steps:

1, With the lid of the washer open, grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.

Some other things to consider:


1. Check your fill hoses to ensure they are tight and not leaking. What can often appear as a washer problem, may be a loose hose.

2. With the washer case removed, check the are UNDER the wash tub. If the leak is coming from the center above the transmission, the tub seal may be leaking.

3. Inspect the wash tub for any cracks. If the tub is cracked and its not serious, you may be able to get by with some marine epoxy to reseal it. If the crack is significant, a new tub will be required.

4. Check the air dome on the lower right hand side of the wash tub. This is a small plastic air hose that runs from the wash tub all the way to the pressure switch. If this hose comes loose, the washer will start to leak as it fills. Simply reattach if it comes loose.

NOTE: It is important to remove the washer case in matters like this so that you can get a full view of everything to determine the source of the leak. Read through everything thoroughly before beginning any repairs. I hope this information is helpful.

Sep 01, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

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