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It could be the oven ignitor which is located under the heat displacement shield if you have a voltage meter or a multimeter do an ampere test should first shut the gas off next locate the oven ignitor or bake ignitor and you will see two wires that go to the ignitor clip around one of the wires should be reading 3-3.3 amps any less then this and the oven will not light even if it read 2.9 it would still be a weak ignitor and need to be replaced because it would not be lighting the gas when it was supposed to check your oven ignitor and message me back with your finds And please remember when our chat is concluded to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation Thanks again and Happy New Year
Hello- Gas ranges have ignitors that light the burners. The lower burner is accessable by removing bottom pan in oven. Ignitor is held in place by two screws. Connector is plugged in behind bottom drawer. Check resistance of ignitor - should be 4ohms or higher. Sometimes they just break. New part available thru local app. parts. 50-75$. Be careful installing new part- ceramic ignitors are fragile. Take your time- toughest part is reaching in to do work. Hope this helps.- Thanks- ED
This is what I would do: I would unplug the range and connect my test cord to your range cord. I use an ammeter along with my test cord to read the amp draw of the bake ignitor. If it cannot get above 3.5 amps I know the ignitor is bad or weak. Since the oven is working that means there is a good circuit. In order for the safety bi-metal to open the amp draw must reach 3.5 amps or better. So to me I am thinking bad ignitor. To get to it I remove the door oven racks and bottom, I then remove the flame spreader and unplug the quick connect to the ignitor. I remove the burner and ignitor and replace the ignitor on a work bench. I am too old to be bending over and trying to do any parts replacement inside an oven. LOL. I have a training film which shows how the silicone carbide ignitor works HERE. Post a model number and I may have a service manual, do not forget to rate the answer.
Hi, to convert from NG to LP is easier in some ways but harder in others. The pressure part is easy because LP runs at the same pressure that comes into the house so the regulator is normally locked wide open to allow a direct by-pass. You could just as easily remove the regulator and plumb straight in from the houseline. You don't say what model but usually the sealed cooktop burners will need smaller orifices and the oven and broiler orifices are adjustable. If that is the case, the oven and broiler orifices can be tightened until they bottom out which be the correct output for LP. You would need to remove the cooktop orifices and find replacements which are correct for LP, these are non-brand specific. Honestly, if you go to repairclinic.com and enter the brand and model number, I'd be surprised if you couldn't find the conversion kit. Even the Dacor site should be helpful. I found many different kits available at the repairclinic.com site even without a model number. Best of luck.
I have had the same miserable experience - replacing the brain, touchpad, expensive parts - for this supposedly high-end appliance.
Have you checked the ignitor bar? See a good explanation of that at http://www.ignitors.com/oven-ignitors/ and also http://www.theignitorstore.com/product/frigidaire_oven_range_igniter_5303935066/range_oven_igniters
I had a similar problem. My broiler wouldn't light but the igniter was glowing. It turns out this igniter has to glow virtually white hot. If it's red or orange it probably needs replacing. I bought a new one from Appliance Parts Pro's. However, when I look at pictures of these things they all look exactly the same. My guess is all appliance manufacturers use the same unit.
To change it on the Dacor you need to pull off the back panel. Loosen the unit inside by removing the screws and shake the wires so someone else can see which ones. Disconnect the wires from the connectors and tape a piece of thickish string to it. This allows you to pull it out from inside the oven and have a way to get it back in past all the little turns and corners. My replacement had bare ends so I cut off the old connectors and soldered them to the new unit. However, I would guess you could use wire nuts instead.
The ignitor will be attached to the burner. Usually 2 quarter inch screws. Of course the ignitor has a harness that runs to the safety valve. You can either cut the wires and connect the new ignitor using ceramic wire nuts or you can follow the harness down. It's easier sometimes just to splice the wires and wire nut it, using the ceramic wire nuts. Catriver
My broiler igniter has gone out once in my 8 yo ERD30. The tech was nice enough to tell me how to replace it myself when it went out again, and so it has. So now I'm looking for the part online! Check out the thread here: http://applianceguru.com/forum1/12935.html