Question about Hotpoint VLXR1020A Top Load Washer
The whole cycle works except it won't aggitate the clothes. It spins during the rinse cycle just fine and shakes like it is trying to agitate the clothes but it ends up soaking the whole time it should be agitating and then drains and spins.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: MAYTAG TOP LOAD WASHER MODEL
remove the fabric despenser from the top of the agatator, under the despenser is a 1/2 inch bolt, a ratche with a 6 inch extention works well, remove the bolt and the agatator will lift up off the transmission shaft
Posted on Apr 12, 2008
SOURCE: kenmore 70 series
Okay...I'm a little confused on your symptoms. You initially said it fills, but doesn't agitate or spin, but drains.
Then, you finished with the washer filling, no agitate or spin, but now doesn't drain.
Which one is it?
The symptoms you describe are usually associated with the following:
1. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or drain - lid switch.
2. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin, but still drains - motor coupling.
3. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or spins slow - gear case.
4. Fills, agitates, spins, but does not drain – water pump.
NOTE: These are the more common failure items with these symptoms.
Double check the lid switch by opening and closing the lid. You should hear a clicking noise to indicate the switch is working. The switch is located under the top panel along the wash tub rim on the right-hand side. If not, check to make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece on the lid itself) is in place. This activates the lid switch when the lid is closed. Also, check the mounting screws along the rim (there are two of them) to see if they are tight.
If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would still drain, but there would be a rattling sound as the washer tries to spin or agitate.
If you need replacement parts, go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number in the "Search by Model Number" window. The lid switch can be found under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part #3949238). Instructions on how to replace are located at the following link:
If you wish to replace the motor coupling, the part can be found under the “Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump” heading as item number 13 (part #285753A). If you need instructions on how to replace, just follow this link:
Now, there’s a couple of ways to drain the washer. If it’s a simple lid switch problem, you don’t need to drain the washer to replace the switch. With a broken switch repaired, the washer will run and drain by itself. However, if you wish to drain the tub you can use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain hose. This may take a few times depending on the size of the shop vac. These wash tubs typically have about a 35 gallon capacity. If you do not own a shop vac, you can by-pass the lid switch by jumpering the two BLACK wires at the lid switch connector that is connected to the console. CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before jumpering, then plug back in.
I hope this information is helpful to you. If I’m wrong about the symptoms, please post back and update me on what the washer is or is not doing, so I can assist you further.
Posted on May 15, 2008
SOURCE: not agitating or spinning
Crokjcc: If your washer fills up and pumps waterout properly, but doesn't spin, it is most likely the "Motor Coupler". This is a plastic and rubber piece that links the motor to the transmission. It is inexpensive to replace, and a fairly easy repair.
A google for "Maytag motor coupler" might get you some more verbose instructions, but here goes.
First, unplug the washer. Getting electrocuted, while entertaining for others, is unpleasant.
Next, Remove the washer cabinet by removing the two screws at the base of the control panel, tilting the control panel up, and unclipping the 2 bronze-gold-looking spring clips. The metal cabinet should be free to pivot towards you and be moved out of the way.
Near the floor at the front of the washer you will see the motor. It is in a "sandwich" with the motor between the transmission and the pump. A number of flat spring clips and a bolt or two hold the sandwich together. Snap the clips off and remove the pump. Another couple of snaps and you should be able to slide the motor out. The broken triangle thing is part of the coupler, and the rest is still stuck on the front shaft of the transmission.
Here is a picture of a coupler. This may or may not be the one for your model, I didn't check.
J_carey, this is probably NOT your issue, since this_usually_ causes it not to spin or agitate. Yours sounds more expensive to fix.. :(
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
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