Question about Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer
Will not let me start machine. First it would not finish cycle and I would set pause and cancle, and it would allow it tofinish,know f 24 code comes up when I start the machines cycle every time.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Maytag Epic-Z F-28 error code
ngfam1 here for you!
I am happy to be of assistance!
Try unplugging the machine for 3 minutes and then rebooting it!
If the problem continues! Service is the only possibility
If your in the states try A&E Factory service the 800 number is below! They are usually quick!
Here is a good service that I recommend to my customers,
in our 65 year old appliance business! they answer 24/7
A&E Factory Service
1-800-905-9505 -(IN U.S.A.)
They are open to make appointments 7days/24hours
A&E is factory authorized service for most brands!
Including warranty work!!!
They will help you, and all will be well!
You will be fine now!
PS. PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD RATING HERE ON FIXYA.COM BEFORE YOU SIGN OFF!
Posted on Aug 26, 2008
SOURCE: maytag epic
the FH error means it's either you have a drain problem if there is water in it or if if there is now water in it, make sure that both water inlets are turned all the way up. check to make sure that you don't have any water leaks anywhere visible.
Posted on Oct 03, 2008
"F24" is a Water Temperature Sensor error or Heating Circuit failure. The first step to troubleshooting these washers is to unplug the unit for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes the error codes can be erroneous and a simple reset of the CCU will correct the problem. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, you have a genuine problem.
If the error code comes back, check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a 2 x 4 under the front feet of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Check to make sure the connector is still plugged in. The connector can become loose or unplugged due to vibration. If the connector appears to be okay, unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:
Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms
Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.
Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.
I hope you find this information helpful. If you have further questions, please let me know.
Posted on Apr 12, 2009
“E3” code – Machine control is attempting to drive the motor but is not seeing any tach
response. Visual Check shows motor is not moving. (Locked or Hall Sensor fault.)
Possible causes of ‘E3’ codes: 1. Spin drum stuck – Verify that the spinner moves freely to eliminate this cause. 2. Hall Sensor fails or is loose – When the Hall Sensor fails or becomes dislodged, the control doesn't recognize that the motor is spinning and shuts down. The result will likely be an “E3” code in the worst case, or “SUdS” if it is only getting a partial rpm reading. Check wire harness connector(s) to motor.
Hall Sensor – PCB that is located on the back of the motor that senses motor rpm. It is not a separate part, but rather an integral part of the motor.
Posted on Sep 23, 2009
SOURCE: ND Error code
Error code "nd" means it is not draining. Click on this link to get the user manual:
Then click on "GET THIS MANUAL" to download the manual.
Not draining can be caused by the controller, pump, solenoid valve, or clogged drain.
If this information was useful, please select YES to the first to rating questios. Good Luck and thank you!
Posted on Oct 22, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 29, 2016 | Simpson Washing Machines
Jul 05, 2015 | Whirlpool GHW9100L Front Load Washer
Aug 26, 2014 | Kenmore 24 in. Electric Laundry Center...
Aug 15, 2014 | Kenmore Elite Stainless Steel 24" BuiltIn...
Apr 08, 2013 | Blomberg WM87120 24" Front-Load Washer...
Oct 15, 2012 | Frigidaire Washing Machines
Jan 31, 2010 | GE 24 in. GSD5930 Built-in Dishwasher
Aug 13, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
Jan 20, 2009 | Washing Machines
Aug 29, 2007 | Indesit W 123 Front Load Washer
142 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: