Top drawer stuck, gaskets rubbing, no power to controls
We realized our F&P top drawer stopped working this evening at the beginning of a wash cycle. The drawer appeared to have lost power, and would not open. I was finally able to pull steadily to get it open, but it felt obstructed by something above, though there is nothing but the rubbing of the rubber gaskets. Manual says there is a seal that inflates and deflates to lock, so I'm assuming it isn't deflating. The top drawer control panel is completely unresponsive.
We have already tried cutting power to the dishwasher and turning back on with no luck. The bottom drawer appears to be fine, has power, etc. Any ideas?
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Re: Top drawer stuck, gaskets rubbing, no power to...
I see the question is posted in the DD603 section, so I am not sure if
I am giving the proper advice. Are you sure this is a 602/601 series? A DD603 model has lid actuator motors, not the inflatable style seal. It sounds like the lid motors are in the DOWN position. Since the machine is "dead" what may have happened is the heater plate opened up (the heater plate is a dropping resistor inline with the machine's controller) when the machine was in use and that stopped everything dead. Double-check your model number so we know what style of lid your machine has, The difference is huge between models.
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you will need to replace both draws control boards, with the dd603 control boards they have a small touch button panel on the top of the board which they didn't put a protective layer or plastic over and basically what happens is steam gets on the copper tracking and corrodes it hence the fact it doesn't work anymore, all new control boards even the replacement for yours comes with a plastic strip over the board. hope this helped
If this is a double drawer dishwasher and bottom drawing is functional but top drawer won't open means the controller on top drawer is faulty or power circuit is locked. If turning the mains power off and back on makes no difference then controller could be the problem. One way to test is to take the controller from bottom drawer and replace that in the top drawer. This requires a lot of patience and experience with electronic stuff. If you are not brave enough to test then call the technician. The controller is about $200 to buy. Make sure the mains power socket is taken out before working on the dishwasher internals.
Here is a suggestion: First turn the breaker for the dishwasher off for a minute or so then turn it back on. This will reset the controls. After that you should be able to select the cycle you want. Now for information on top drawer acting crazy. I had problems with the top drawer on a model 603I, I found that the control board under the drawer cover (at the upper right corner) had a broken latch. This allowed the control board assembly to drop down at the right side which caused the electronic eyes at the side of the drawer to become misaligned. This was giving false information to the control board indicating that the drawer wasn't closed properly. My problem was fixed by securing the control board back in place making sure the electronic eyes were lined up properly. (Note: The electronic eyes I am referring to include two clear plastic tubes about an inch and a half long to the right of the control board. These tubes must be properly lined up with the led and photocell on the side of the control board) It sounds complicated but if you take the drawer cover off you will notice the control board alignment immediately. Its an easy fix if this is your problem. One way to fix it is to take a piece of string and tie the board back in place. (That's what I fixed mine with and it has worked like new ever since.) NOTE: MAKE SURE THE POWER IS TURNED OFF BEFORE YOU BEGIN THIS REPAIR!
You could isolate the top drawer by taking the controller power cable out. DIsconnect mains power to dishwasher, open top drawer and remove front cover carefull after removing 2 plastic pins on each side with plier. Controller box is on left top side, remove bottom connector and cover with insulation tape. Put things back and turn power back on.
But if you want to find the fault with top drawer then that is very trick if there is no fault code on panel except beeping First clean the top panel inside door with a clean damp cloth. If this does not change the situation, then it is very likely the controller is detecting some faulty sensor - and will need to find one by one. Are you ready for it?
Try running the drain hose into a bucket next to the machine. If it drains Ok, look for the restriction in your plumbing. If it won't drain into the bucket, look for a closed drain valve, open fill valve, bad middle or top probe, check power at drain connector ( it's DC volts from the bridge rectifier in the top drawer on the relay board.. Basically, water is at top probe at beginning of rinse, or it didn't drain down after the wash. Drain hoses can kink from hot water if not routed well.
Have you tried pulling out the motor rotor and checking for anything stuck under it? try swapping it with the other drawer. If it still won't go you need to swap over the motor controllers between the two drawers if the fault moves you need a new Motor controller module. Cheers
I f lock is activated during wash the draw will appear dead when wash cycle finishes ,check for lock symbol in lcd display if it is visible press lock button for about 5 seconds until you hear beep release button and try POWER button